no heat
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: pahrump nv
no heat
i have a 61 f100 uni with a 223 and i cant get the engine to warm up enough to get heat for the heater i put a 195 thermostat in today and its only warm until you start driving in which it goes cold the temp gage only reads like 140 down the road and 160 idling any reason as to why?????im stuck i really want a heater...
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,375
Likes: 5
From: seattle
No heat...could possibly a plugged/semi plugged heater core...or the water shutoff valve on the passenger side fender apron is shut off partially....as for the gauge reading as it does, it possibly could be a bad temp sending unit on the engine. Was there ample heat and correct gauge reading before swapping out t/stats ??? What temp was the old t/stat that was in it...and lastly, is the spring side of the t/stat pointed towards the engine ???
- cs65
- cs65
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Senior User
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From: pahrump nv
i installed it correct no valve on my hoses and my infrared says the gage is really close and the old t stat has been stuck open for years just finally been driving it enough to have to change it the truck has ran cold like this for years even with a good t stat cardboard in front of the rad has always been the solution its just a pain to get it in there then it looks crappy blah blah just hoping someone else has ran into this before
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,060
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From: Glendale Arizona
Reverse flow/flush the heater core with fresh water. Its clogged. at 120 you will have heat if the core is clean inside. also claen the fourty years plus of gunge off the core to allow air to flow through it as it is exposed to the cab.
195 is way too hot a stat for a 223. A 170 to 180 and a 1 1/4 coolant level below the cap in the rad.
Modern puter controled engines use the 195 stat as they run under 16 plus pounds of pressure raising the boiling point of water to around 250 degrees. A cap on a 223 will be ony 7 PSI and have a lower boiling point around 220 degrees.
Also drill a 1/8 inch bypass hole in the stat to help burp the air out. Inline sixes like to retain air in the head and run cool till running a bit then suddenly boil over.
Garbz
195 is way too hot a stat for a 223. A 170 to 180 and a 1 1/4 coolant level below the cap in the rad.
Modern puter controled engines use the 195 stat as they run under 16 plus pounds of pressure raising the boiling point of water to around 250 degrees. A cap on a 223 will be ony 7 PSI and have a lower boiling point around 220 degrees.
Also drill a 1/8 inch bypass hole in the stat to help burp the air out. Inline sixes like to retain air in the head and run cool till running a bit then suddenly boil over.
Garbz
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Senior User
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From: pahrump nv
i just put a hot one in there to get some heat at 140 i have a little heat if i keep it on low if i put it on high i can watch the temp gage cool off but in the morning
ill reverse flow it and then ill flow check it see what happens
ill reverse flow it and then ill flow check it see what happens
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
The t-stat has nothing to do with heater output as Dave noted. It only opens to allow for flow. It has nothing to do with overheating as long as it opens.
Fact is you wont get any heat until the stat opens and allows hot water to reach the heater core that also is flowing. You can take the state out and your truck can still run hot if other cooling factors are not working. IMHO
Dave has lived in Pa most of his life and likes I6s so he should know what a 223 likes, I don't.
John
Fact is you wont get any heat until the stat opens and allows hot water to reach the heater core that also is flowing. You can take the state out and your truck can still run hot if other cooling factors are not working. IMHO
Dave has lived in Pa most of his life and likes I6s so he should know what a 223 likes, I don't.
John
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From: pahrump nv
reversed flowed it nothing came out same problem water came out as fast as i could flow it in there ....
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Glendale Arizona
Did you clean the gunge off the core in side the cab?
It can be so full of dust and dirt/hair that it will not flow air. it is a radiator....
Also pull off the hoses from the head and pump and check for blockage of rust.
Garbz
It can be so full of dust and dirt/hair that it will not flow air. it is a radiator....
Also pull off the hoses from the head and pump and check for blockage of rust.
Garbz
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Did you run water in it from both directions?
Run the truck a bit and see if both hoses to the core are hot?
Water pump could not be pumping water back there, but keep at it you will get it.
John
Run the truck a bit and see if both hoses to the core are hot?
Water pump could not be pumping water back there, but keep at it you will get it.
John
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
If the hoses are old and soft, they can collapse.
The inside portion of the hoses can become frayed, or the rubber begins to peel, restricting water flow.
Any sharp bends in the hoses will restrict water flow.
Originally the two hoses came with molded 90 degree ends.
Most replacement heater hose is straight, the amount needed is cut from a 50' roll...all it takes is one minor kink to restrict flow.
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: pahrump nv
ok i figured it out i took the heater core out took to my local rad shop he said 90% plugged so he rodded it and i discovered while changing my heater hoses one of the valves on the block was also plugged unclogged that and bam heat thanx so much to you guys that pointed me in the right direction...
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
It is hard to get across sometimes, but if a good flow of hot water is getting through the core there will be heat in the cab.
I would recommend that you get the whole system power flushed and refill with fresh coolant mixed with grocery store distilled water at a 50/50 mix. You truck shows that there are water issues in the area that the original water came from.
Hope you didn't pay more than $20.00 for the rodding, because a replacement core is about that price or was until recently.
John
I would recommend that you get the whole system power flushed and refill with fresh coolant mixed with grocery store distilled water at a 50/50 mix. You truck shows that there are water issues in the area that the original water came from.
Hope you didn't pay more than $20.00 for the rodding, because a replacement core is about that price or was until recently.
John
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From: pahrump nv
i couldn't find a replacement and yes he did it for free haha cause i do alot of business with him through my shop the rad was done like a year ago when my father was complaining about over heating he never complained about the heat and when i asked him about it he said hadnt worked since the late 60s but o well works now...and the whole time both hoses where hot by the way ...