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i have the same problem with my 99 350 but have not checked what the psi is but i change out my idm and it didn't change anything and have done everything you have done with the sensors and fuses i'm stuck myself only thing i havent done is pull my valve covers to check the wires
I haven't checked the under valve cover connectors either (the 42 pin connector is OK). I had one of those come loose before - engine was running on 4 cylinders, very hard to start, no power. But I don't think it likely that both sides pulled loose at the same time - also, I flow checked the glow plugs and they are taking about 70 amps. Same connector for glow plugs and injectors, so something should try to fire. It won't run without HPOP pressure, so I have to find out why there's no pressure :-)
I haven't checked the under valve cover connectors either (the 42 pin connector is OK). I had one of those come loose before - engine was running on 4 cylinders, very hard to start, no power. But I don't think it likely that both sides pulled loose at the same time - also, I flow checked the glow plugs and they are taking about 70 amps. Same connector for glow plugs and injectors, so something should try to fire. It won't run without HPOP pressure, so I have to find out why there's no pressure :-)
IPR was suggested earlier. The IPR is what controls your oil pressure is in the rails, so that is something you should check. The only way I know of to check this is with a scanner than can monitor IPR duty % as compared to ICP pressure.
Originally Posted by fastshelby
i'll have to do the same with mine i have also been told that if it has a bad valve cover gasket that shorts out and won't run either
The valve cover gasket has a pass thru connector for the injector wiring. The pins can get burnt, broken, or become loose, but this was more of an issue with the older model trucks. The UVCH (under valve cover harness) is the wiring that plugs into the valve cover gaskets, and has been a known issue with our trucks. If a connector comes loose, it will set the check engine light and cause the truck to run rough, but shouldn't create a no start.
You mentioned you've changed your CPS, unplugged your ICP sensor, and even replaced your IDM with no luck. Have you checked your fuses and relays? Checked battery voltage while cranking? Checked fuel delivery?
fuses are good don't know about relay's don't know how to check them fuel pump is running don't know what the psi is or about how to check it and i been keeping the battery's full charge
The easy way to check a relay is to swap it with another (less important) one. If something else quits working, but the original problem is fixed, you have a bad relay.
I had a similar problem on a 95, it turned out to be the high press. oil sensor, just not making a good elect. connection. I believe at that time there was 3 of them. The 1 that was the problem was on top of the reservoir. Don't know but something to check.
It's a lot of trouble being in a remote location and trying to find out what is wrong. Finally rigged up a scheme to check HP oil pressure and the gauge shows 200 psi while cranking. Now the problem is to find out why the oil pressure is low - bad pump, bad regulator, or a leak somewhere. My problem is finding the fittings to isolate the HPOP output and measure the pressure. I need a blanking plug or cap for one of the quick disconnect lines out of the pump, and some kind of crossover fitting from the oddball thread on the manifold rails to something standard (1/4 NPT). Does anyone know what these fittings are and where to find them? <!-- / message -->
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