How easy is it to pull an engine?
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 367
Likes: 1
From: denver
For me, these are always very slippery slope projects when it comes to cost and time. If you pull the motor to check the bearings, the second you unbolt the rod caps, you probably should replace the bearings, which probably means turning the crank. Basically, plan on rebuilding the motor if you take it out. If your rear main isn't leaking that bad, I would leave it in. The exhaust manifold and valve cover gaskets are easy and cheap. As for the rest of the minor stuff like valve seals, you could wait until it is bad enough to justify pulling the motor, or as you mentioned, pull the heads. If the guides are bad, new seals won't last long.
BTW, craigslist is a great place to find cherry pickers. I picked a nice one used once, for half the original price.
BTW, craigslist is a great place to find cherry pickers. I picked a nice one used once, for half the original price.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,760
Likes: 8
From: Gadsden Purchase
Yeah what the second big guy with the girlie perm said. :)
Go by the engine's oil usage not by what the spots look like.
It can look like a lot of oil when it ain't that much really.
We used a boom truck on my 360FE. :)
If I ever do it by myself I'm going to pull my T18 first than put it back last.
The engine hoist works great on the T-18 since the floor has an access panel.
Does a 400 weight more than a 302? :/
1000lbs?
Really? ;)
Alvin in AZ
Go by the engine's oil usage not by what the spots look like.
It can look like a lot of oil when it ain't that much really.
We used a boom truck on my 360FE. :)
If I ever do it by myself I'm going to pull my T18 first than put it back last.
The engine hoist works great on the T-18 since the floor has an access panel.
Does a 400 weight more than a 302? :/
1000lbs?
Really? ;)
Alvin in AZ
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,849
Likes: 1
From: Seattle
If you do pull the engine, when you unbolt the torque converter from the flywheel, BE SURE that you push the torque converter back into the transmission away from the flywheel. This will give you lots of clearance to remove and install the engine with no problems. be sure to elevate the front of the transmission to keep the tc from sliding out.
The engine stand needs to have a safe working capacity of 1000 lbs., this is a heavy engine, probably 700+ lbs. DEFINITELY put the front of the truck in the garage to pull the engine so the engine hoist is on CONCRETE. This is for your safety. Dan.
The engine stand needs to have a safe working capacity of 1000 lbs., this is a heavy engine, probably 700+ lbs. DEFINITELY put the front of the truck in the garage to pull the engine so the engine hoist is on CONCRETE. This is for your safety. Dan.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,749
Likes: 0
the truck uses virtually no oil.. a bit on a cold startup and that's it. I could probably take it across country without needing a single quart.
I think I'm going to wait until closer to winter to pull it. It does need some work, but I think I need to have a bit more to do once I pull it. I'll feel terrible just changing a couple of gaskets and not doing much else.. with the engine out and the waterpump being drilled, a cam would be an easy swap, new timing chain/gears, replace balancer and main pully with something lighter, why not machine the heads and redo the valve train? I know myself and I know this is how I'll think once I see it on an engine stand.
I had decided I'd just drop the engine in a strong trailer to hook up to my lawnmower. I've pulled the whole truck with my mower before, so the engine shouldn't be that big of a deal.
Thanks for the help.. I *was* ready to pull it, I woke up yesterday with every intention on doing it.. but it was hectic day (i've had a lot of those lately) and it snapped me back to reality, I simply don't have time for it right now.
Gonna go ahead and order parts so I have the engine to work on in the winter.
I think I'm going to wait until closer to winter to pull it. It does need some work, but I think I need to have a bit more to do once I pull it. I'll feel terrible just changing a couple of gaskets and not doing much else.. with the engine out and the waterpump being drilled, a cam would be an easy swap, new timing chain/gears, replace balancer and main pully with something lighter, why not machine the heads and redo the valve train? I know myself and I know this is how I'll think once I see it on an engine stand.
I had decided I'd just drop the engine in a strong trailer to hook up to my lawnmower. I've pulled the whole truck with my mower before, so the engine shouldn't be that big of a deal.
Thanks for the help.. I *was* ready to pull it, I woke up yesterday with every intention on doing it.. but it was hectic day (i've had a lot of those lately) and it snapped me back to reality, I simply don't have time for it right now.
Gonna go ahead and order parts so I have the engine to work on in the winter.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,326
Likes: 48
From: Middle TN
The easiest way to move a pulled engine across gravel and grass to the garage is to use a tractor with a front lift bucket. You could also use the bucket to pull the engine by hooking a chain to it. In my area you can rent a tractor by the day.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 796
Likes: 1
From: Minnesota
I recently pulled a 351w from a 78 tbird on gravel and I don't think I would ever do it again. I am an ex ford dealership mech. and it took 4 hours and we had to pull the cherry picker with a 4x4 to get it to move. Very unsafe. Find a smoth surface to do it and take your time. Use a digital camera and take a lot of pictures before so you know how everything goes back together. Even one little ground wire can hold you up. So take your time and be safe.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,069
Likes: 3
i have changed about 4 or 5 460s over the years this is what i have encountered, a $10.00 manifold plate that bolts to the carb pad with grade 8x1/4" bolts will lift a 700 lb engine plus if it has 3 holes to hook chain with a swivel use the hole closest to front it will be at the right angle if your truck is higher than your hoist get engine up as far as it will go,jack up and remove tires/rims and lower s/b enough clearance check engine/trans dowl pins that they are where they are suposed to be BEFORE engine is lined up [pain to remove in tight space] make shur the converter stud u pick to line up flexplate is NOT the one with converter drain plug beside it hope this helps regurds joe
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,760
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From: Gadsden Purchase
http:www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/guidepins.jpg
The original clutch didn't last four years. :/
Made those in the late 70's for the first of many T18 pulls!
Something like those any good for automatic transmissions? :)
The T18 will slide -right in- (like it likes it;) with its rear-support
sliding on the frame and the front-end sliding on those pins.
Believe it? :)
With those things it's a one man job and no sweat neither. :)
Alvin in AZ '75 F150 360FE T18
ps- dog-nosed them in the 90's. ;)
The original clutch didn't last four years. :/
Made those in the late 70's for the first of many T18 pulls!
Something like those any good for automatic transmissions? :)
The T18 will slide -right in- (like it likes it;) with its rear-support
sliding on the frame and the front-end sliding on those pins.
Believe it? :)
With those things it's a one man job and no sweat neither. :)
Alvin in AZ '75 F150 360FE T18
ps- dog-nosed them in the 90's. ;)
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 4,423
Likes: 8
From: Clarksville,Tn
If you have to pull the engine on gravel with a cherry picker; I recommend once the cherry picker is under the front wheel area (securly planted ) and attached to the engine; all items unbolted & removed items like hoses & engine bolts etc; I would not try and move the lift but just push the truck backwards as you lift the engine out with the cherry picker. It also being a 4x4; the front clip removed will allow easier access & allow you more clearance. I'm no mechanic, but with the front clip removed as others have mention its worth the time alone removing it, compare to trying to lift your engine out on gravel. I've removed acouple engines and replace them as well, I will for now on remove the front clip (dog house) from my personnel vehicles now on. I'm no mechanic for sure...
Today alone we (3 guys) on concrete had a problem putting my 302 / C-6 combo back in my 78 model; had to lossen the drive side engine perch to get the left motor mount back in; and having the front clip removed surely made this alot easier.
Mitch
Today alone we (3 guys) on concrete had a problem putting my 302 / C-6 combo back in my 78 model; had to lossen the drive side engine perch to get the left motor mount back in; and having the front clip removed surely made this alot easier.
Mitch
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