Just got my new 4.30 gears for the 8.8 rear end, and have a few questions on what to look/watch out for when doig the install. This will be my first attempt at installing gears, so make sure to keep things simple (yeah, I'm kinda slow like that when it comes to new things :P)

I know the basics of the swap, but can't find any reference as to properly meshing the gears, clearances, etc. If anyone could help me out here it would be GREATLY appriciated. I just can't see paying someone $150-200 to do the job.

Even better yet, if any of you are in the NW Ohio area and have nothing better to do next Saturday........LOL

TrailDawg
https://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/User_files/3aaa4bac6f539876.jpg
1993 F150 2WD
4.9L-Auto
Pro-Comp Stage-2 6" lift
Auburn Pro-Series Diff. w/4.30:1 gears
35x12.50x15 General Grabber MT's
http://www.geocities.com/ProjectTrailDawg

 

A few things I can tell you, but, they pertain to a Dana 44. First, get new bearings and seals. Second, take the case to a shop that can not only remove the bearings, but can "hog" them out a few thousands, only if the shims are on the inside of the bearings will you need to have this done(like the 44). These have now become your set-up bearings. Make sure you have a good dial indicator and base, this will be for setting the backlash on the ring, you should have the specs for yours with the new gear set. Make sure you have plenty of different size shims, these will be used to move the case left and right in the housing to make it match the pinion. Use the marking compound to verify contact between the ring and the pinion. When doing that, make sure you check not only the pattern, but also the depth that the pinion rides into the ring. If you need to adjust this, that will have to be done on the pinion, kinda the same as moving the case, shimmed in or out instead. When removing the bearing caps, mark them well, these will need to go back in the exact same way they come out, bolts also. When starting, count and index the shims as you remove them, this will give a good starting point when re-installing. Take your time and do expect to have the case in and out several times until you get it right. Don't cheat here, close is NOT good enough if you want them to last. I had mine in and out at least 8 times before I was satisfied. Plan on a full day for this. You should have a couple of rubber mallots and a couple of pry bars for taking the case in and out, or rent a "spreader" for the housing, this will make it easier if it's a tight fit. When breaking in the new, do "cycle" it a few times to begin with, no extremes with reguards to leaving the line or high speeds-long duration runs, and let it cool down completely between the first few runs. It's not hard to do, just time consumming to get it right! I know the 8.8" uses "C" clips for axle retension, so this might make it a little easier with the shimming, at least I hope so. Good luck, hope it goes well for you.

 

[font size="3" color="#191979"]
Make sure you have the pinion bearings set right - they will fail without the right preload. The carrier bearings are similar, but not as picky.

Art

 

I just bought the half-kit (install kit) which doesn't include the new bearings. How hard is it to pull the old bearings, and do you need any special tools to do so?

TrailDawg
https://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/User_files/3aaa4bac6f539876.jpg
1993 F150 2WD
4.9L-Auto
Pro-Comp Stage-2 6" lift
Auburn Pro-Series Diff. w/4.30:1 gears
35x12.50x15 General Grabber MT's
http://www.geocities.com/ProjectTrailDawg

 

Ya you need some muscle if your doing it by yourself...alot of pounding...we changed the rear pinion bearings in my Fathers 93' F150 Extendedcab SB, and they were a pain in the A*S !! not to mention Crappy Tire (fellow canadians) gave us the wrong bearings !! twice !! We ended up using a press at my work to get the bearings off the pinion shaft, dont let me change your mind about the shop... backyard mechanics rule.... (and a case case of beer will be needed for me to help !! oh and gas...$$) get some help you'll probly need it

2000 F150 Extended Cab 4x4 Sport, all Black
Head light covers
Tail light covers
"FordmotorSports" sticker in rear window
Stereo upgrade soon need some "thump"

 

Well, I decided to dust off the wallet and pay someone else to do it. Wasn't easy though, as I had to call about 500 places before I could find one who even did rear end work. Since when is axle work not considered part of a mechanic's job???? Next thing ya know they won't be doing tune-ups. LOL

TrailDawg
https://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/User_files/3aaa4bac6f539876.jpg
1993 F150 2WD
4.9L-Auto
Pro-Comp Stage-2 6" lift
Auburn Pro-Series Diff. w/4.30:1 gears
35x12.50x15 General Grabber MT's
http://www.geocities.com/ProjectTrailDawg

 

[font size="3" color="#191979"]
No, actually I have found most mechanics are just part replacers. True mechanics can FIX nearly anything. To rebuild an axle correctly, one must thoroughly understand bearing preload (pinion AND carrier bearings) as well as pinion depth. Otherwise it will be a CB (comeback)...

Art

 

4.30s? Wow!

Eddie

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 19-Mar-01 AT 05:08 PM (EST)[/font][p]Wow? What's wrong with the 4.30's there Eddie? :P If you do the math, 4.30's work out perfect.

(new tire diameter/old tire diameter) x old gear ratio = new gear ratio

so....

(35/29) x 3.55 = 4.28

SEE!!!!! I did my homework. Now where's my star? LOL

TrailDawg
https://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/User_files/3aaa4bac6f539876.jpg
1993 F150 2WD
4.9L-Auto
Pro-Comp Stage-2 6" lift
Auburn Pro-Series Diff. w/4.30:1 gears
35x12.50x15 General Grabber MT's
http://www.geocities.com/ProjectTrailDawg