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I want to put a programmer on my truck but have held off because i dont want to blow my head gaskets. my truck had the turbo replaced in january because it was letting oil into the exhaust side of the turbo. they ran a compression test on all cylinders and buz tested the injectors. all cylinders were even on compression.
so my question is! has anyone just pulled the factory head bolts out one at a time with out breaking the seal on the heads and just slid a stud back in and torque them back down? is this even possible?
my reasoning is why pull the motor all apart if your still producing even compression? with no leaks or signs of failure? Would this be realistic or am i just dreaming?
I want to put a programmer on my truck but have held off because i dont want to blow my head gaskets. my truck had the turbo replaced in january because it was letting oil into the exhaust side of the turbo. they ran a compression test on all cylinders and buz tested the injectors. all cylinders were even on compression.
so my question is! has anyone just pulled the factory head bolts out one at a time with out breaking the seal on the heads and just slid a stud back in and torque them back down? is this even possible?
my reasoning is why pull the motor all apart if your still producing even compression? with no leaks or signs of failure? Would this be realistic or am i just dreaming?
Sorry for "waking" you up, but for me it sounds like a dream. First, you'll have to pull the cab or the motor, just to have enough room for the studs to slide in to the head. I don't remember the exact length, but they are around 8" long.
The second problem I see is to tight them up right after you put them in. There is a 3 step tightening process, 80-160-245 lb/ft. The factory bolts tightened to - I'm not even sure - but if you would do it the way you mentioned, there is no way the pressure on the head will be even, and there, you already damaged the "old" gasket.
And third: You have to pull most of the parts out to do the studs the way you "dreamed" of - just like you would if you pull the heads. The new gasket cost like $60-100, and you end up an extra 2 hours of work. Why not replace them? You have the cab off or motor pulled already, I mean if you would do it your way?!
but i did want to say that i have read about people that have done this and it has worked.
now i would not do it if it were my truck but you could take your chances. also i heard it's really hard to torque one of the back studs because there's not enough room to get the wrench in there.
i have no personal wrenching experience all my work was done at a performance diesel shop.
Its been done, but its not recommended. That being said, I think it can be done without problems, but I'll wait until I blow a gasket then I'll lift the cab and do a bunch of other mods at the same time.
So the main question was to replace the bolts with studs without pull the head...
There is no question that it could be done. But without lifting the cab, or pull the engine? No way! I have my personal experience with head stud job, and I can tell, that you have to pull one of them (cab/engine). And if you are there --- why take chances? From that point, it doesn't make any sense not to walk the road all the way....
I don't mean to steal the thread but Iwas thinking the same thing - replacing the head bolts without pulling the heads.
If it is a must to lift the cab is there a detailed preocedure on what to do to lift the cab? I want to review the procedure to see if want to do this myself.
it shouldn't be that difficult if you take your time and do it right. there are a lot of wiring harnesses that need to be disconnected. but if you get some masking tape or something and mark numbers on each side of the connections so that you can match them up when you go to put it back together it's much easier.
here is my question.....i too am sorry for hijacking the thread.........but does anyone know if performance shops would be willing to let me help do the work when i get studs put in my truck so that i can learn more. i'm not looking for a discount for me helping, i will pay their full price, just want to get to know my truck on a more intimate level
Well, in the shop they lift it up high, so they can walk around the engine area.
In my opinion you have to lift up as high as it sits at a level that is comfortable for you to reach engine and work with the heads.
I did my studs, I pulled the heads, new gaskets of course , and I did it without pull engine, lift the cab. IMHO, the turbo area was a PITA, but I would do the same way again if I have to. It is hard, but pull the cab isn't easy either. The time so spend to pull the cab - you already at the heads if you just dig in. But I definitely would take off the hood.
Dcaddi2, I have a link saved where you explained how you did your heads without pulling the cab or engine.......Are you saying you wouldnt recommend doing that again for mechanical problems, or just the PITA factor?
Dcaddi2, I have a link saved where you explained how you did your heads without pulling the cab or engine.......Are you saying you wouldnt recommend doing that again for mechanical problems, or just the PITA factor?
Everyone has to make that decision on they are own, but what i meant - even some of the job was a PITA, I would do the same way again- no cab lift/ no engine pull. I don't really see that I've had any mechanical problems, and the PITA factor? Just think/read about how much work you looking for to disconnect and pull the cab...
There is a local shop here that told me they would replace the bolts with studs for around $550 + $studs, and if the gaskets went later that they could reuse the arp studs when they did the gaskets. Has anyone heard of that before?
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