E40D no forward gears STRANGE (repost)
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2008
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E40D no forward gears STRANGE (repost)
Hello everyone! My first, well second time posting to this site. Got in trouble because I copied the text in my last post from another website which had ad's throughout the text and got banned 
. Really was my fault for not taking it from the edit or removing the ads. Now I was given a second chance. I had this question up for awhile and some may have responded to it but I wasn't able to check. So here it goesss...
Some of the words are still hyperlinked... But this time they seem to be coming from this site rather then the other one. Lol mods please bare with me.
. Really was my fault for not taking it from the edit or removing the ads. Now I was given a second chance. I had this question up for awhile and some may have responded to it but I wasn't able to check. So here it goesss...
The truck is a 96' f-250 with 189k on it. I have no clue of the tranny history but its fine. By fine I mean that when it does work it shifts fine with no slipping at all.
But heres the kicker about 5 months ago I was driving the truck and it was pretty warm out. The trans temp got up to 160 and I went into a store. When I got back into the truck I put it into reverse to backup. Then when I went to put it into gear nothing happened. So i backed it up into a parking spot and checked the fluid levels. From what I'm told the dipstick in this truck is wrong so its almost impossible to get a reading. I then added a quart of tranny fluid and regained 1st(low) gears. I let the truck sit longer and the temp dropped to around 140 and I regained all forward gears. So when i got the truck home I checked the cooler lines etc to see if their working. They all work fine and I added more fluid. The truck and tranny ran fine till today.
**Note after that day I have had the tranny higher then 160, usually everyday it gets above 160-180 and nothing happens.
But today I took a trip into town. I drove into a spot the temp was around 160ish. I parked the truck and turned it off for about 10mins. I went back in the truck and put it into reverse. As soon as I went to put it into drive and nothing happened. So I was like whatever and left the truck. This time I didnt add any fluid. I went and waited around 15 mins. Went back and I had 1st(low) gears back. I drove it and parked it under some shade. Then about 30 mins later I came back and the trans temp was around 140 and it worked fine... Drove it home and added another quart. It never slips or anything. This is the 2nd time this has happened. And I read about what others have been through in the same type of situation but it seems that their gears didn't come back like mine did.
Heres the only thing I noticed about the tranny. The pan was obviously taken off before by previous owner. There is some weird sealant between the pan and the tranny now. It looks like melted rubber. I also noticed that there is always a great deal of tranny fluid on the pan (leaking from the crappy seal job) I mean the pan is completely covered in fluid and there are those little drip areas all around at the lower points and around the seal. (you can run your finger around it and come up with a great deal, and come back later the area where i wiped is covered.)
So is this problem caused by this leak? I mean over the time of 5 months I could have lost a good amount of fluid. I'm gonna have to take it to a local garage and get them to change the filter and seal etc. But like i said its been 5 months and I have had the tranny hotter a few times then it was today. Can low tranny fluid cause no forward gears? I was thinking that If it gets to low that the heated fluid becomes to thin etc... And letting it cool allows it to function again?
But heres the kicker about 5 months ago I was driving the truck and it was pretty warm out. The trans temp got up to 160 and I went into a store. When I got back into the truck I put it into reverse to backup. Then when I went to put it into gear nothing happened. So i backed it up into a parking spot and checked the fluid levels. From what I'm told the dipstick in this truck is wrong so its almost impossible to get a reading. I then added a quart of tranny fluid and regained 1st(low) gears. I let the truck sit longer and the temp dropped to around 140 and I regained all forward gears. So when i got the truck home I checked the cooler lines etc to see if their working. They all work fine and I added more fluid. The truck and tranny ran fine till today.
**Note after that day I have had the tranny higher then 160, usually everyday it gets above 160-180 and nothing happens.
But today I took a trip into town. I drove into a spot the temp was around 160ish. I parked the truck and turned it off for about 10mins. I went back in the truck and put it into reverse. As soon as I went to put it into drive and nothing happened. So I was like whatever and left the truck. This time I didnt add any fluid. I went and waited around 15 mins. Went back and I had 1st(low) gears back. I drove it and parked it under some shade. Then about 30 mins later I came back and the trans temp was around 140 and it worked fine... Drove it home and added another quart. It never slips or anything. This is the 2nd time this has happened. And I read about what others have been through in the same type of situation but it seems that their gears didn't come back like mine did.
Heres the only thing I noticed about the tranny. The pan was obviously taken off before by previous owner. There is some weird sealant between the pan and the tranny now. It looks like melted rubber. I also noticed that there is always a great deal of tranny fluid on the pan (leaking from the crappy seal job) I mean the pan is completely covered in fluid and there are those little drip areas all around at the lower points and around the seal. (you can run your finger around it and come up with a great deal, and come back later the area where i wiped is covered.)
So is this problem caused by this leak? I mean over the time of 5 months I could have lost a good amount of fluid. I'm gonna have to take it to a local garage and get them to change the filter and seal etc. But like i said its been 5 months and I have had the tranny hotter a few times then it was today. Can low tranny fluid cause no forward gears? I was thinking that If it gets to low that the heated fluid becomes to thin etc... And letting it cool allows it to function again?
Some of the words are still hyperlinked... But this time they seem to be coming from this site rather then the other one. Lol mods please bare with me.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 38
Likes: 1
Anyone have any input? I know when this usually happens it means the trannys toast. But when it did this all I did was allow it to cool down and it works fine. Shifts fine, torque converter stays locked. For example when coasting down a hill the rpms will stay around 1k, then I tap the brakes and the torque converter will unlock and the truck will drop to around 600rmps.
When engaging into drive or reverse it goes in nice and smoothly.
Took the pan off when replacing to a factory gasket (previous owner had rtv around the pan :\, was fun to take off.) Fluid was like new, magnet had the normal sludge and fuzz.
Now heres another question. I followed the cooler lines and they came out to a cooler that looks like this.
I was surprised when I saw this. (Btw when you Google "power steering cooler" thats the same thing that comes up under images lol.)
I removed it and it had ATF in it so I guess thats the cooler. I replaced this cooler with one out of a 2001 ranger. It's not the biggest like a 6.0l or trucool but it's better then the stock one. Replaced the cooler and my temps never go above 140 now. (Gonna go bigger cooler in the spring)
Ok so the tranny lines also run into the radiator. Does this also heat the tranny fluid if the fluids in the radiator are running hot? Another option I have is to put some type of heat shield over my exhaust. A 3" str8 pipe running a quarter of a inch from the tranny return lines can't be helping it cool either.
So anyone have any idea whats going on? Thanks alot.
When engaging into drive or reverse it goes in nice and smoothly.
Took the pan off when replacing to a factory gasket (previous owner had rtv around the pan :\, was fun to take off.) Fluid was like new, magnet had the normal sludge and fuzz.
Now heres another question. I followed the cooler lines and they came out to a cooler that looks like this.
I was surprised when I saw this. (Btw when you Google "power steering cooler" thats the same thing that comes up under images lol.)
I removed it and it had ATF in it so I guess thats the cooler. I replaced this cooler with one out of a 2001 ranger. It's not the biggest like a 6.0l or trucool but it's better then the stock one. Replaced the cooler and my temps never go above 140 now. (Gonna go bigger cooler in the spring)
Ok so the tranny lines also run into the radiator. Does this also heat the tranny fluid if the fluids in the radiator are running hot? Another option I have is to put some type of heat shield over my exhaust. A 3" str8 pipe running a quarter of a inch from the tranny return lines can't be helping it cool either.
So anyone have any idea whats going on? Thanks alot.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 521
Likes: 0
From: new mexico
yeah
think this truck has been way messed with...
1. sevice the trans and converter...there is an excellent description in this forum on change atf fluid in e40d and other transmissions.
2. fix all this stuff and take it off..try to get back to the stock set up.
3. i think the lines thru the radiator are ok in cool climates. but still have new and clean secondary collers after that in my hot climate...
if that dont work....hope you know a good trans shop. e40d's can be cranky
think this truck has been way messed with...
1. sevice the trans and converter...there is an excellent description in this forum on change atf fluid in e40d and other transmissions.
2. fix all this stuff and take it off..try to get back to the stock set up.
3. i think the lines thru the radiator are ok in cool climates. but still have new and clean secondary collers after that in my hot climate...
if that dont work....hope you know a good trans shop. e40d's can be cranky
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 38
Likes: 1
yeah
think this truck has been way messed with...
1. sevice the trans and converter...there is an excellent description in this forum on change atf fluid in e40d and other transmissions.
2. fix all this stuff and take it off..try to get back to the stock set up.
3. i think the lines thru the radiator are ok in cool climates. but still have new and clean secondary collers after that in my hot climate...
if that dont work....hope you know a good trans shop. e40d's can be cranky
think this truck has been way messed with...
1. sevice the trans and converter...there is an excellent description in this forum on change atf fluid in e40d and other transmissions.
2. fix all this stuff and take it off..try to get back to the stock set up.
3. i think the lines thru the radiator are ok in cool climates. but still have new and clean secondary collers after that in my hot climate...
if that dont work....hope you know a good trans shop. e40d's can be cranky
I wanna know if these trannys or even the pcm might have a safe mode when the tranny gets to a certain temp it will shut down? I really don't wanna have a rehaul. I dont tow or anything. With the slighty bigger cooler I never seen temps over 140 now.
Transmission Rebuilder
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,570
Likes: 63
From: North Georgia
I have responded to your last post on this and after rereading this I will have so stick with my original response. I feel that the problem will be with the forward drum. Could be burnt clutches due to the leaking pan or the inner oring in the drum ( they lose there flexibility over time and due to heat) or the sealing rings ability to seal in the center support. I have seen these failures in this unit ever since it came out. The forward clutches will be what will effected first due to low fluid. What ever the failure is it is keeping the forward clutches from applying.
The solenoid block wont cause a no forward condition, you can unplug it and it will still engage in forward and reverse. The block only controls line pressure, shifting, and tcc engagement. With it unplugged the line pressure will be max. I have also never seen the valve body do this ether. So the problem has to be internal and located in or near the forward drum.
This unit will most likely have to come out and at least the forward drum area repaired.
The solenoid block wont cause a no forward condition, you can unplug it and it will still engage in forward and reverse. The block only controls line pressure, shifting, and tcc engagement. With it unplugged the line pressure will be max. I have also never seen the valve body do this ether. So the problem has to be internal and located in or near the forward drum.
This unit will most likely have to come out and at least the forward drum area repaired.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 38
Likes: 1
I have responded to your last post on this and after rereading this I will have so stick with my original response. I feel that the problem will be with the forward drum. Could be burnt clutches due to the leaking pan or the inner oring in the drum ( they lose there flexibility over time and due to heat) or the sealing rings ability to seal in the center support. I have seen these failures in this unit ever since it came out. The forward clutches will be what will effected first due to low fluid. What ever the failure is it is keeping the forward clutches from applying.
The solenoid block wont cause a no forward condition, you can unplug it and it will still engage in forward and reverse. The block only controls line pressure, shifting, and tcc engagement. With it unplugged the line pressure will be max. I have also never seen the valve body do this ether. So the problem has to be internal and located in or near the forward drum.
This unit will most likely have to come out and at least the forward drum area repaired.
The solenoid block wont cause a no forward condition, you can unplug it and it will still engage in forward and reverse. The block only controls line pressure, shifting, and tcc engagement. With it unplugged the line pressure will be max. I have also never seen the valve body do this ether. So the problem has to be internal and located in or near the forward drum.
This unit will most likely have to come out and at least the forward drum area repaired.
Hope fully I will be able to make it last till next spring. Its fine ATM and with the bigger cooler it never goes above 140f, and its been warm here for the past few days and I went on some solid 40min trips without seeing above 140f. (only when I shut it down. The temp rises like 5 degrees due to no flow.)
Before I did this cooler upgrade in 80+degree heat I wont only make it 10miles and the tranny would hit 180f unloaded and I would either go or not.
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