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I know many of you have changed your front suspension, from stock to sumthing independent. Just wondering how many of you have removed the crossmember that held up the rear of your engines. Should it stay or should it go!
it all depends... it depends on the engine/trans you're installing and it depends on what you plan on replacing it with... the center crossmember is very important as it keeps the frame from spreading. it's a long span between the front crossmember and the one under the bed...and the frame rails will twist and spread if there isn't some structural member somewhere in there
You can take care of part of it with a crossmember type engine mount that connects to two rails and has the motor mounts intergrated in the crossmember... and the transmission mount will add the rest if it is securely attached to the frame rails. Some even attach it at top and bottom flange. Mine is attached only at the bottom...
either way... you need something to keep things from twisting...
Thanks to both Johns, I was thinking the same it could be a train wreck if I removed it.
I need to make clearance for the c6 pan, My thinking is it would be okay to notch it out for the room I need. I have a tubular crossmember for the trans , it mounts to the lower frame rail. My engine and trans are offset to the right for the volare clip. Inedd a least an inch or more to clear it. thank you again
I cut the major bracket that was right under the transmission which made it difficult to remove the tranny with out taking the tranny cover off (ripping up carpet) over the years the truck started to lean to one side. I checked the suspension and it was all even, even checked the cab bracket which was again on point so I figured the frame itself was spreading. When I swapped frames out I made sure to retain the cross-member I just took out all the rivets and relaced them with grade 5/16 bolts, I also put on a tranny cover that had been modified so I caould take the tranny out if necessary without removing the cover. I think its best to leave it.
And if you really want to get ambitious.., customize the existing crossmember with a section that bolts in place and is removable.
Put some thought into it so it will make the crossmember stronger, so that it may index bothtension and shear and still allow for exhaust and trans linkage.Just a thought..
I purchased an aftermarket piece from CPP and used with with my 352W/C4 combo. I added powerbrakes with the guts mounted forward of the crossmember and the fit and function is great. Good luck.
It would be nice if you take a few pictures of what you're doing.
I'm bolting an E4OD on the back of my 292 (pics in the gallery). I'll be using side mounts on the block. I assume that I'll probably need to either remove or modify that mount too. I have a pretty heavy duty frame but I definitely don't want any frame twisting...
At first look it appears that the cross piece might clear the pan but maybe not. I haven't done any accurate measurements yet...
Mine's a 48 f1, and that crossmember also holds the brake MC and pedals, so there's more mods to come if the crossmember is removed. I went to using an F2 crossmember that has a wider and deeper channel for the trans to sit in, and it lined up perfectly for my T18 4 speed (w/ 400cid). However, that plan went to the wayside, and I'm starting over with a flathead and T5....which may still end up using the F2 crossmember to clear everything. The tubular crossmembers look like the way to go, but also means you need to get the brackets for your brake MC. Good luck!
I did it a little differently than the others. I removed the original crossmember rivots and relocated it back just behind the u joint to allow for the AOD and brake booster. I then added a lower frame rail located new trans support crossmember. This retained and in fact added a little frame twist resistence. One picture (booster) in my galley shows the position.
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