Swappin Ratio's
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Freshman User
Joined: May 2001
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From: Boonville Good Ol' U.S.A
Swappin Ratio's
I got a question for yall.. i currently have 3.08's in my rear end and want 4.10's is it possible to do this in my rear end.. its a 95 f150 351 E40D 4X4.. i recently put new 38 inch tires and i knew that i would have to lower my ratios.. just want to know if the 4.10's will fit in my rear end or if i need a new axle.. thanks
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2000
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From: Auburn,Al
Swappin Ratio's
im not sure how low you can go with your gears, but i know you can at least get 4.88's for your 8.8 rear end, since you have 38's and overdrive i would recomend 4.56 gears, that would be the equivilant of you having 3.48 gears with stock 29 inch tires
but a 4.10 gearset would bring you back closer to stock, itd give you the equivilent of a 3.12 ratio with stock tires
1985 F-150/351Ho/c6/4wd~94,000 miles
1979 F-150extcab4x4/460/c6/6inchlift w/60rear44frnt (250 axles and springs)
37 inch boggers
but a 4.10 gearset would bring you back closer to stock, itd give you the equivilent of a 3.12 ratio with stock tires
1985 F-150/351Ho/c6/4wd~94,000 miles
1979 F-150extcab4x4/460/c6/6inchlift w/60rear44frnt (250 axles and springs)
37 inch boggers
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2000
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From: Lima, OH
Swappin Ratio's
Just a quick note. When you change your gears, make sure to check if you'll need a different 'notched' differential pin to clear the ring gear. I had to get one to clear the 4.30's I put in my rear due to the added thickness of the ring gear.
Jim
https://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/User_files/3aaa4bac6f539876.jpg
1993 F150 2WD
6" Pro-Comp Stage II Lift w/35's
Auburn Pro-Series Diff. w/4.30 gears
http://www.ProjectTrailDawg.com
Jim
https://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/User_files/3aaa4bac6f539876.jpg
1993 F150 2WD
6" Pro-Comp Stage II Lift w/35's
Auburn Pro-Series Diff. w/4.30 gears
http://www.ProjectTrailDawg.com
Elder User
Joined: Jun 1999
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From: SE PA
Swappin Ratio's
Not sure what's under the front, but if it's a 44, you will need to change the case, the break is at 3.73. This and lower uses one case and anything above (3.90 is next I think) uses a different case due to the previously stated ring gear thickness. If I remember correctly, the case price quote was $40 above the R&P, bearings, shims ect.-went with the tru-trac instead.
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I was wondering if someone could give me some info...
I have a 93 F150 flareside with an automatic 351 EFI...
I am currently running 33 x 12.5 BFG Mud terrains...
I want to replace the 3.73 gears with 4.56's...
I have a Dana44 front and a Ford 8.8" rear...
Also, I want to install Detroit Locker differentials.
What I would like to know is what exactly I will need to do this.
so far I've seen that I need the ring/pinion set for the gears, the detroit lockers themselves... and some kind of installation kit for the shims/bushings...
If anybody has any other suggestions please let me know
I have a 93 F150 flareside with an automatic 351 EFI...
I am currently running 33 x 12.5 BFG Mud terrains...
I want to replace the 3.73 gears with 4.56's...
I have a Dana44 front and a Ford 8.8" rear...
Also, I want to install Detroit Locker differentials.
What I would like to know is what exactly I will need to do this.
so far I've seen that I need the ring/pinion set for the gears, the detroit lockers themselves... and some kind of installation kit for the shims/bushings...
If anybody has any other suggestions please let me know
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: GANS
If you are asking, you need to take it to a place to have your gears done. You need presses, bearing pullers, and all kinda of other good stuff.
You will need gears, a master beaing setup (includes shims and stuff), and the lockers.
You will need gears, a master beaing setup (includes shims and stuff), and the lockers.
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Lead Driver
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 9,236
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From: Senoia, GA
lol when i saw Ho's post i KNEW this was an oldie.
if you have never done it before take it somewhere and have them do it for you... if you don't mind spending the money on the tools then do it yourself.... it's not all that hard with all the right tools!
-cutts-
if you have never done it before take it somewhere and have them do it for you... if you don't mind spending the money on the tools then do it yourself.... it's not all that hard with all the right tools!
-cutts-
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Alright... that's probably what I'm going to have to do... it's a daily driver and I don't have the time to mess up and figure out my mistakes
I have some serious plans for the truck but they're going to have to happen over time...
After the gears is the 8" skyjacker lift kit.. then I'll swap my 33x12.5 for some 38" pro comps.
I have some serious plans for the truck but they're going to have to happen over time...
After the gears is the 8" skyjacker lift kit.. then I'll swap my 33x12.5 for some 38" pro comps.
New User
Joined: Aug 2004
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I've gone through the gearing stuff three times with my truck, for a 38 inch tire you will want to go with at least a 4;56, Rieder racing suggested to me a 4;88 ratio with that size tire, with a 8.8 in the rear and a TTB 44 up front you will need a new carrier for the gears internally at the 4;56 ratio anything less than that and you can use the stock carriers unless you want to step up to lockers or limited slips, thats what was recommended to me on my second build up on my '95 F-150 when I stepped up to 39.5 swampers
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2000
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From: Bay area
for a D44 you need a new carrier for 4.10 gears and lower, not 4.56 and lower.
just get the 4.88's you have overdrive so you will not be sorry for getting them. 4.10's and 38's with overdirve will never let you use over drive unless your going 80mph plus.
just get the 4.88's you have overdrive so you will not be sorry for getting them. 4.10's and 38's with overdirve will never let you use over drive unless your going 80mph plus.
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I think you're a little off with your info on that 80MPH thing... If I'm running 38" tires with 4.56 gears it's the same as if I was running my original 31" tires on 3.73 gears... and I know that I hit 65 MPH at about 2400 RPMs in 3rd... and overdrive puts me up to about 105-110MPH
this is still on the highway side... sure if I would go with 4.88's I would get some better acceleration... but I'd be tacking almost 2600 RPMS at 65MPH and OD would be kicking in a little too soon for my liking.... besides... If I really need that extra power I could throw my 33's back on and it would be the same as having my 38's with 5.13 gears...
So I see no reason to go with 4.88's
But, if you have another reason why... please tell
this is still on the highway side... sure if I would go with 4.88's I would get some better acceleration... but I'd be tacking almost 2600 RPMS at 65MPH and OD would be kicking in a little too soon for my liking.... besides... If I really need that extra power I could throw my 33's back on and it would be the same as having my 38's with 5.13 gears...
So I see no reason to go with 4.88's
But, if you have another reason why... please tell
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2000
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From: Bay area
first off your tires are going to be heavier, more weight to get moving, more wind resistance. your engine is going to need all it can to not constantly down shift from over drive to keep the vechile going at a steady speed. 33's might weigh about 80-90 lbs with steel rims. I know my 38's I ran weighted 135 lbs with 15x10 steel rims. They were heavy suckers.
so in saying that a 38" tire never measures 38" tall so we will use 37" for the charting of this. that puts you at near 2700 rpm's @ 65 in 3rd. over drive drops that to just a touch over 2000 rpms at 65mph. This is all with 4.56's If you had the 4.88's you would be pushing a few hundred more rpm's which would be easier on the tranny and the engine. Lugging a engine is bad for the bearings.
My current setup on my bronco is running a decent built 400, with a 4spd, and 39.5 iroks on double beadlocks. 3000 rpm's @ 70 mph or so. I have no overdrive. I wish I was around 2400-2600 @ 70 but there is no way I would run 4.10's and these heavy tire/rim combo. They are pushing 175-200 lbs per tire/rim.
oh and one should never be going 105-110 with 38's unless they are careless. this carelessness hurts the offroad communitity.
so in saying that a 38" tire never measures 38" tall so we will use 37" for the charting of this. that puts you at near 2700 rpm's @ 65 in 3rd. over drive drops that to just a touch over 2000 rpms at 65mph. This is all with 4.56's If you had the 4.88's you would be pushing a few hundred more rpm's which would be easier on the tranny and the engine. Lugging a engine is bad for the bearings.
My current setup on my bronco is running a decent built 400, with a 4spd, and 39.5 iroks on double beadlocks. 3000 rpm's @ 70 mph or so. I have no overdrive. I wish I was around 2400-2600 @ 70 but there is no way I would run 4.10's and these heavy tire/rim combo. They are pushing 175-200 lbs per tire/rim.
oh and one should never be going 105-110 with 38's unless they are careless. this carelessness hurts the offroad communitity.
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What shop are you getting your info from? I'm just wondering due to the company making the gears may play into effect here, I used Precision Gear 4;10 ratio in both my 8.8 and front TTB 44 for two years without a prob, but when I stepped up in tire size and lift for the second build up, the gears wouldn't clear the diff housing , hence the numerous calls and relization of the need to get a new carrier, just wondering if the gears you were using are thicker at the 4;10 ratio, which would mean they are stronger, I would think, which has me guessing if I should look into your provider before I lock this thing in turning my new 46's, any added strength would help me out with a tire this big, please let me know.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2000
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From: Bay area
Originally Posted by BabeTheBlueOx
What shop are you getting your info from? I'm just wondering due to the company making the gears may play into effect here, .
I doubt the gear makers differ from each other. My information came straight from detroits fitment page. They list all the part numbers for the dana 44 carriers.
http://www.tractech.com/docs/TT-List-LTPM1004.pdf
my guess is someone was "able" to some how figure a way out to use your higher gear ratio carrier with the lower ratios. might not have been the best gear setup but they figured it was the front and you would probably not use it much. This is only a guess on my part.