I'm now getting three codes from the trans.

14- Tach sensor

29- VSS signal error

62- TC clutch failure

I know the tach sensor is about $50 from the dealer. How much would a VSS cost? Also, would fixing them help with the TC clutch failure error?

Thanks
Gary

 

the first two codes would cause random/no tcc lockup. However, I'd also be looking at the mating plug and harness.

 

Gary,

The first two codes may just be symtoms that will go away if you fix the real problem.

The code that worries me is the Code 62 which basically says your torque converter is toast most likely.

The factory Converters were never much good and started to slip on the TC lock which ends up putting metal into your oil which in turn will take out your tranny in the long run. The reason you are seeing the code 29 and possilby 14 is that the VSS and the Tach signals that the tranny controller receive do not match what the controller is expecting because the torque converter lock is most likely slipping.

Best guess based on my own experience is that your torque converter is gone and needs to be replaced. Make sure you do this before you end up destroying the rest of the tranny with all the metal that is going into the oil when the TC lock slips.

I have several threads discussing how you could troubleshoot whether the torque converter lock is gone on this website. Just do a search under my name. What you would need to install is a manual converter lock switch. This will allow you to see if and when your converter lock is slipping by watching your rpm's on the engine and your speedometer.

As a quick bypass fix you could also disable the automatic converter lock which will allow you to run your converter the way the old C6 converters ran that did not have a TC lock feature. The downside is a little bit of fuel economy loss. Note this won't make the error codes go away but will let you run without doing further damage to the tranny until you can get the tranny pulled, flushed, and TC replaced.


Seb....

 

Here's some more info, that may help...

When I got the truck, it was in limp mode. I found out that the solenoid pack connector was un-soldered, where it connects to the pack. I got another pack and replaced it. I am no longer in limp mode.

The tach will bottom-out, while at idle sometimes. That leads me to think that the tach sensor is either dirty, or needs to be replaced. Since I'll have to remove the vacuum pump to get to the tach sensor, I'm just going to replace it. I'd rather not have to take the vacuum pump off twice.

The O/D light has only ever come on one time and that was on a cool morning, when I started it for work. It blinked erratically and only 3 times.

I don't know anything about the VSS, but since the truck has 251,000 miles on it, I figure it should be due for a replacement.

When I changed the solenoid pack, I replaced the tranny fluid that came out of it. I did not re-use it. When I cleaned the tranny pan, I also cleaned the magnet. It had a fuzz on it, but nothing major and not a whole lot of fuzz. I also replaced the tranny filter, while I had the pan off.

My question is.... Should I go ahead and replace the VSS, as well as the tach sensor? My thinking is, that changing them might help the TC lockup problem. Please, correct me if I'm wrong..

Gary

 

I'd do the tach sensor, as long as the connectors look good. If any are bad, the new one will do the same thing. What color is the VSS? Black is the old style and should be changed, gray is newer but should be checked for smooth operation.

 

I thought the color concerns were for the FIPL/TPS. I haven't even looked at the VSS yet. It should be mounted on the rear diff.. The FIPL/TPS is mounted on the IP..

Gary

 

Sorry Gary, my bad! Getting my acronyms screwed up! I found this on checking the tach sensor.

Replace the tach sender on the oil fill housing a big 1" nut with 2 wires. Ford only part Engine RPM sensor E5TZ-17B384-A about $50. You can remove and clean it but usually changed later too. You can test it too, hold it in the air away from ferrous metal, using an ohm meter lead on each wire you need DC resistance between 2000-3000 ohms.

 

Thanks for the part number Doug! I looked at the tach sensor and found bare wires, where they go into the sensor. It also looks like I'll have to remove the vacuum pump, to get the tach sensor out.. Bummer.

Gary

 

The sensor only has to come out about 1" to remove it, is the vac that close? I can go out and measure my spare (NO, you can't have it!) if it looks close.

 

OK, how about 1/2"? I thought it was longer (doesn't everyone?).

 

The vacuum pump sits way too close to the sensor, for me to get the sensor out. Why can't I have it?!?!?!?!

On another note... The VSS is available from AZ.. Part number: SU1019
Does this look right?

Gary

 

That looks just like mine. And I already sold my last spare that I got with my spare 6.9, so then I had to find this one! You need to find a cheap PS electric vac pump, and then find another one for me!

 

I have an electric vacuum pump.. If I take my OEM pump off, the belt will be too short!

 

OMG! Just get a shorter belt.
That old pump is robbing at least 1/8 of a hp!
So where did you find it and how much was it?

 

I can live with the OEM pump, till it dies on me..

With all the power this thing has, 1/8hp is nothing! I'm really impressed with this truck's power, even if it doesn't YET have a turbo!

The pump was a freebie...

Gary