Anyone running the Chevron Delo ELC? Thinking bout flushing the system and replacing with the Delo. Wanted to see the opinions of it in here before I rush out and buy some. Speaking of which, if any of yall are running it, whered you purchase it from? Going to make some phone calls to local stores tomorrow to see if they have it.

Anyone have any tips or tricks to coolant flush that would make it a little easier on a first timer? Ive read a couple how-tos that someone had posted on another site and feel confident. Im probably going to go ahead and replace the tstat and gasket while im doing this as well.

 

I use Shell Rotella ELC, basically the same stuff, different brand.
You have to flush every molecule of the old stuff out to make it effective as a long life coolant.
I bought mine from a local supplier, forget how much now, it's been a couple of years.

 

I think someone's missing a good marketing opportunity to not offer ELC converter kits for our sized cooling systems.

Pop

 

is there anything special you have to do when you change the antifreeze

 

just flashed mine, got three bottles of gold antifreeze from the ford dealer and 10 gallons of distilled water from walmart. Flushed twice and filled up. Did notice a temp drop after the new coolant was installed. I used a 5 gallon bucket and just used the radiator drain plug on the drivers side to drain it. Note, DON'T OVERTIGHTEN THAT PLUG, i broke mine off but it still works! I also changed the upper and lower radiator hoses, dam claps are hard to work with.

 

Make sure you know where the engine block plugs are at. I think the driver's side is near a freeze plug or oil galley plug, which you don't want to open!

Your cooling system holds 32.75 quarts (just over 8 gallons). I drained everything, filled up with distilled water, ran it (with no thermostat) and then drained it for 3 drain and fills.

Then I added 4 gallons of Zerex G-05 Gold coolant (my 03 doesn't use the additive), then filled it with distilled water to the fill line. I ran it once until the thermostat popped and then topped it off. Over the next few days I would check the level when I got to work and when I got home and topped off with distilled water as needed.

A couple of tips:

I replaced the hoses (upper and lower) when I did this since I figured an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. In the earlier models the upper hose goes through the serpentine belt (bad design). If you order one for a dual alternator setup the hose goes around the belt and solves that problem. Just make sure you get the right lower hose because the dual alternator lower hose routes differently since the second alternator is near there.

You will also want to get a new upper housing (for the thermostat). You can try and re-use it but mine was just about worthless anyway. I got the billet housing (from dieselsite I think) and used it rather than buy another junky one from Ford. Use some temperature/pressure resistant RTV and run a thin bead around the thermostat housing to prevent any leaks from surface irregularities since the surfaces are not going to perfectly match (especially with the billet one).

 

I did the complete flush last year, when I had to change my water pump, refilling with Delo ELC.

I flushed my system literally for hours because I kept getting a green tint to the water and I wanted EVERY bit of the green flushed.

After flushing with the garden hose (removing the drain block plugs), I flushed the tap water out with approximately 20 gallons of distilled water, finally filling with Chevron Delo. Make sure you get the 100% Delo, not the 50/50 mix.

I also changed to the 203 degree thermo, billet thermo housing, and coolant bypass from Dieselsite.

Stewart

 

Thanks for the quick replies guys. I just literally got back from doing the rounds picking up parts and asking everyone if they stocked or could order the Chevron Delo. Wouldnt ya know I got looked at like I had just grown horns and more than half the places. The guy at Napa was the most helpful. He got out his book and was flipping through it and the only thing he could get was Fleetrite ELC I believe.

BUT, I did luck out and find Rotella ELC the ONE true truckstop we have around here. They only sell the 50/50 though and its 12.99 a gallon. Id much really buy 4 gallons of concentrate and pay 1.00 a gallon for the water.

Anyone know of a national chain that sells either the Chevron Delo or Rotella?!

Thanks for the hose suggestions too. I had the lower one replaced not too long ago and I learned of the "other" upper radiator hose (outside of belt)from this site and picked it up at Napa while I was out today!
This place is great and so are the members! A wealth of knowledge.

 

After your final flush with distilled water, you need to fill your system with 100% concentrated, undiluted Delo in order to obtain the proper mix because you'll still have distilled water in your system that you can't get out.

That leftover distilled water is what creates your 50/50 mix.

Here's a cut and paste of Gooch's flush procedure.

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<CENTER><CENTER>Goochs Radiator Flush Procedure</CENTER></CENTER>

Here's my flush procedure for doing a complete flush:

You'll need the following:

4 gallons of anti-freeze concentrate. In agreement with International who made your engine, I recommend a conventional coolant with SCA, or a pre-charged conventional coolant for the early 99's (pre-2/2/99). For all other 99-up PSD's I recommend a Heavy Duty ELC. But the choice of coolant is yours.

SCA (if using conventional un-charged coolant). Amount depends on the SCA maker (usually 3-4 pints).

Up to 20 gallons of distilled water (you may use less if your tap water quality is excellent requiring less flushing).

A Prestone flush kit with "T".

1-1/2 foot of 5/8" hose (to go on flush "T").

A new thermostat gasket.

Possibly a new thermostat, new coolant filter (if you've added one), or any hoses or hose clamps that you think may need replacing.

Note: A children's small plastic wading pool works good for a catch container. Some fit between the front wheels perfectly.


Flushing procedure:

Park truck on level surface. Allow to cool.

Turn in-cab heater valve all the way to "hot". This will help circulate the old coolant out of the heater core during flushing.

Remove degas bottle cap slowly (be careful if hot).

Drain radiator at pet-**** (bottom left-hand driver's side) into suitable container. Expect at least a 5-gallon bucket-full.

Remove lower radiator hose (at radiator) and drain any sediment and/or coolant from radiator and hose into container.

Remove driver's side block plug with 1/4" socket wrench driver, and drain coolant into suitable container.

Remove passenger's side block plug with 1/4" socket wrench driver, and drain coolant into suitable container (this is best done without an extension on the wrench, working under the truck from the top rear side of starter - no need to remove starter).

Remove thermostat housing and thermostat.

Re-install thermostat housing without thermostat, using old gasket (it's ok if it leaks a little while flushing).

Re-install both block plugs finger-tight.

Re-install lower radiator hose temporarily.

Close radiator pet-****.

Remove heater hose at passenger's side coming off the engine (just below intercooler tube).

Install that heater hose to one end of the flush "T".

Install 1 1/2 foot of 5/8" hose to other end of flush "T".

Install the remaining end of the 5.8" hose to fitting where the original hose was removed from.

*Note*: You could permanently install the flushing "T" in the heater hose if desired.

Install garden hose onto flush "T".

Turn garden hose on until clear water (no green tint) runs (backflushes) out of top of degas bottle. This will take several minutes.

With hose still on, start and run engine for a couple of minutes, again until water coming out of degas bottle is clear (no green tint).

Turn engine off. Turn garden hose off.

Drain radiator at petcock, remove both block plugs, remove lower radiator hose.

Remove flushing "T", the extra 5/8" hose, and reinstall the original heater hose to engine.

Close radiator petcock, reinstall and finger-tighten both block plugs, reinstall lower radiator hose (permanently).

Fill system with distilled water until the degas bottle is full.

Run engine a couple of minutes.

Drain radiator petcock, remove both block plugs.

Close radiator petcock, reinstall and finger-tighten both block plugs.

Again, fill degas bottle with distilled water.

Run engine a couple of minutes.

Drain radiator petcock, remove both block plugs.

Close radiator petcock permanently.

Install both block plugs and tighten permanently.

(You may decide to flush with distilled water one more time if your tap water is extremely bad).

Install thermostat and new thermostat gasket.

Add 4 gallons of anti-freeze concentrate to the degas bottle.

If using SCA, add it to cooling system per SCA manufacturer's instructions (usually 3-4 pints).

Add distilled water to finish filling the system until the degas bottle indicates between min/max.

Replace degas bottle cap.

Rinse off any coolant from engine and underbody of vehicle.

Run engine (or drive truck for faster heating), until thermostat opens and hot air is felt through heater in cab. Periodically check coolant level adding distilled water as necessary. If heater does not get hot (or stay hot), it may be necessary to rev engine or purge air from the cooling system.

Add distilled water until level equalizes (min/max mark) in degas bottle. (this may take several days).

Use test strip to test and add SCA if applicable.

This method will yield approximately a 50/50 mixture of coolant/distilled water. If in cold climates, it is always best to have the freeze protection tested with a quality refractometer.

Write down date and mileage of coolant maintenance for future use.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Stewart

 

Why do you only want to us distilled water! I worked for a large bus Co. years ago never bought distilled water just used tap water! never had a problem! To date they use tap water. they also got three PSD repair trucks? Sorry to hijack!!

 

FYI final charge from wally mart, 8.XX a gallon, buy 8. The ole red kool aid coolant.

 

Im definitely not an expert but Ive heard if you have hard water the minerals and such in the water are bad??? I have well water and had to install a water softening system and a separate system to remove iron. I think if I used tap water the chemicals in my home system would cost me more than buying the distilled water!

 

Does the Final Charge offer the same kinda protection and maintenance free operation as say a Chevron Delo or Rotella ELC? I love the price and while I may pray for my truck to make it 750K more miles I dont expect it to and would definitley settle for something around 100K or so but how does Final Charge stack up?

 

Same type of coolant. Maintenance free, and a lot of people on this board run it. It does 300K without a charge, then goes to 600K with a charge at 300K.

 

Well I think youve pretty much sold me on it. Never thought wally world had big boy deals on anything but ammunition! Thanks so much guys!