Does anyone know if these trucks sat level from the factory, or if the rear was always taller? I have a '75 F250 that sits about 2" lower in the front than the back. I'm just wanting to know if thats normal, or if I'm experiencing spring sag. Thanks.

 

Most trucks are made that way. If they weren't, after market companies wouldn't make leveling kits!

The idea in that design, imo, is that if the rear sits higher when empty, the truck will sit level when loaded.

 

Hmmm...there's another way to look at it. You may have somethng there.

BUT-let me play devil's advocate here. If front end weight has something to do with it, wouldn't the manufacturers design the springs to support the front end level with the back?

 

Definately has to do with weight capacities, ad the amount that the vehicle drops when loaded.
Take a current F250 and F350.
In some instances they use the same spring pack, but the 250 has a smaller block than the 350.
Common upgrades for the 250 is to install a 350 block to gain additional heigth.

 

Ok. You guys have answered my question thoroughly. Now, where do I get the parts to level the front end? These are leaf springs (remember, its a '75).

 

Aren't you forgetting something? If it has leaf springs in front, it's a 4WD.

F250 2WD's do not have front leaf springs.

 

Yes, it is a 4WD.

 

Buy yourself a sledge hammer! :)

If you borrow a sledge hammer to save yourself some money,
you might still end up having to buy a new handle for it? ;)

My 10 pound sledge worked great on the 5/16" thick leaves but when
it came to the 5/8" thick overloads... needed something heavier. :)
Ended up buying a good used 16 pound head... already had a handle.

Think of it as a good workout?

Alvin in AZ

 

buy a set of add a leaf springs and put them up front so it matches the rear. Being it has 3" wide springs up front it should be easy to find what you need.

 

Ick. :/

YMMV but...

I don't like "army's" way of doing it at all. :/
No offense. ;)
IMO, your idea sucks. ;)

I don't care if everyone else on the whole dangged planet does
it that way and/or thinks it's a great idea... I still don't like it. :/

I'm just friggin weird that way. :/
That's my ->zero<- cents worth. :)

--------------------------------

Cold re-arching the original springs will simply put back what time
has taken from them. It's cheap to do and you are in control and
get to customize the exact amount of "lift/return" you want.

Whether "it's back to the way it was" or more or less, you get to
choose. No extra weight like when adding leaves either or wondering
what you are going to have when you get done. You'll know.

On my '75 the rear spring's axle locating pins were not the same
distance from the front eye! Buying a new spring pack that would
have had that distance the same on both packs "would have" made
my pickup "crab" instead of being straight.

Like I said "YMMV".

And no, unlike most others, I don't think my ideas are worth 2 cents.
They are "free"!
Take 'em or leave I don't care which. :)

Alvin in AZ

 

Get new springs, or band aid it with add a leaves.

 

or but a spacer block up front? not sure if ya could do this, i know ya can in the back and plus i have no experience with the 250 4x4s so some else will have to shoot holes in my idea as i have no idea if ya can block the front end!

 

LOL :)

Adding a leaf won't necessarily make any difference at all.

Before adding a leaf will you clean the old ones? Or just slap it in?
I used a little hand grinder with a flap disk and ground away the divots while
I was cleaning up my springs. Sprayed paint along both sides of one pack
before taking them apart.

While watching a couple guys re-arch springs one of the things they put
a -lot- of effort into was checking the way the leaves fit together.

Only a few whacks then lay them all together and check the fit.
A lot of work was put into moving that leaf back and forth between
the table and the special anvil etc. No kidding on that.
"They" thought it was important. ;)

And when you add a leaf?
How's it going to fit-in and is it going to work with the rest of the pack?
The whole pack working together is a key ingredient here.

Before installing a new spring pack be sure to check the old spring's locating
pin position. My two factory original packs were different, and my pickup tracks
straight as a arrow. If I'd've swapped them it would've crabbed to beat hell.

Is that zero sense worth? :)

Alvin in AZ
ps- special ordered my pickup, when I say "they are original" I mean it ;)
pps- why the resistance to re-arching your own springs?

 

http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/spacer1.jpg
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/spacer2.jpg

If I could figure out a way to pull my old coil springs back out in a controlled
manner I wouldn't need no spacers. :)

Alvin in AZ
ps- to do both sides took two air-cooled VW transmissions LOL :)
pps- was it worth it? ;)