No spark from #4?
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No spark from #4?
1992 F150 4X4 5.8L E40D
I started getting a miss about a week ago and thought I have a fouled plug. I had the engine running and took off each plug wire at a time. When I got to #4 (back one on passenger side) and pulled the wire off, I did not change the sound of the engine. So I just installed Autolite double platinums and have the same problem. I have not pulled codes yet, but I did not think it would show anything like this anyway. As I rev it up it gets worse at about 1500 rpms then starts to smooth out over that. It seems very smooth at 2000 and above.
This is a crate motor with less than 20K miles on it in over two years. Any thoughts? Thanks.
I started getting a miss about a week ago and thought I have a fouled plug. I had the engine running and took off each plug wire at a time. When I got to #4 (back one on passenger side) and pulled the wire off, I did not change the sound of the engine. So I just installed Autolite double platinums and have the same problem. I have not pulled codes yet, but I did not think it would show anything like this anyway. As I rev it up it gets worse at about 1500 rpms then starts to smooth out over that. It seems very smooth at 2000 and above.
This is a crate motor with less than 20K miles on it in over two years. Any thoughts? Thanks.
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My codes are: KOEO - 111 then in memory are: 126 (MAP signals are higher or lower than expected), 332 (insuficient EGR flow detected).
Then KOER - 311 (Thermactor system no operation), 332 (insufficient EGR flow detected), 538 (there is a few things this can be).
Now... I have installed the EGR eliminator so I don't know why I am getting any code for the EGR. Also I have the termactor valves disconnected along with the vacume lines plugged that went to the valves. And finally, I usually get the 538 code when I forget to do a WOT during the test, but I did it this time and still got the 538.
Any thoughts?
Then KOER - 311 (Thermactor system no operation), 332 (insufficient EGR flow detected), 538 (there is a few things this can be).
Now... I have installed the EGR eliminator so I don't know why I am getting any code for the EGR. Also I have the termactor valves disconnected along with the vacume lines plugged that went to the valves. And finally, I usually get the 538 code when I forget to do a WOT during the test, but I did it this time and still got the 538.
Any thoughts?
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Well I replaced the fuel injector and it did not fix the problem. I can pull the plug wire while it is running and it has no change. I can also pull the injector connector while it is running and it has no change also.
Was else could cause this? The motor has about 18k miles on it. The distributor cap was corroded a little on the terminals and on the rotor button so I took a little sand paper to it. I find it hard to believe one of those could be the problem because I am getting a good solid spark between the spark plug boot and the plug while it is running just like the others.
Do I have a stuck valve or something? Is there a fuse link or something for the injector wire?
Thanks for any help
Was else could cause this? The motor has about 18k miles on it. The distributor cap was corroded a little on the terminals and on the rotor button so I took a little sand paper to it. I find it hard to believe one of those could be the problem because I am getting a good solid spark between the spark plug boot and the plug while it is running just like the others.
Do I have a stuck valve or something? Is there a fuse link or something for the injector wire?
Thanks for any help
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There is also no change when I swap the plug wire with another one. And I also disconnected the negative battery cable to reset the computer and that did not change anything as well.
???
???
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From: Easton,Ks
You should have a bank injector system so you have two sets (4 each) of injectors tied together.
Never the less pull the injector plug off and put a test light across the pins of the plug and see if it flashes.
If it flashes I would think you need to take the engine back.
I take it that it is under warrantee.
Never the less pull the injector plug off and put a test light across the pins of the plug and see if it flashes.
If it flashes I would think you need to take the engine back.
I take it that it is under warrantee.
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Yes, it still has a warranty BUT...a couple of weeks ago I have a coolant hose on the throttle body split and start spitting out coolant. And tried to baby it back home while watching the temperature gauge. The gauge did go up and down, but never into the hot side. I fixed the hose and it seemed to run just fine for a couple of weeks. I don't know if maybe I bent a valve or something.
If I could determine that it woud fall under a warranty job, then I would have it done. But, if it is something I did (like let it over heat and bend a valve) then the warranty would not cover it and I would have to pay for some mechanic to do all the work. The warranty requires the broken part to be returned and they (HESCO) will determine if it is their fault. If so, they will pay for the part and labor (up to $50 per hour).
I guess I need to do a compression check now?
If I could determine that it woud fall under a warranty job, then I would have it done. But, if it is something I did (like let it over heat and bend a valve) then the warranty would not cover it and I would have to pay for some mechanic to do all the work. The warranty requires the broken part to be returned and they (HESCO) will determine if it is their fault. If so, they will pay for the part and labor (up to $50 per hour).
I guess I need to do a compression check now?
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I have only drove it a couple of miles with the new plugs in it. After I find what is wrong with it, I will keep an eye on the plugs and when they start to go bad I will replace them with regular autolites (which is what I had it it before).
I am going to get a compression tester today and hopefully do a test on it in a day or two. I am also going to put a test light on the injector connector before I start tearing into the engine.
Thanks for all the help.
I am going to get a compression tester today and hopefully do a test on it in a day or two. I am also going to put a test light on the injector connector before I start tearing into the engine.
Thanks for all the help.
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It was running bad with the original plugs. It started missing about a week before I changed the plugs. I thought it was a fouled plug so I changed them to the double platinums. Then I thought it was an injector so I changed it also. Neither of them fixed it at all, so I need to do a compression check and/or check to see if I am getting voltage from the injector connector.
I don't understand how the double patinums can be that bad anyway. If I don't get much service out of them, I will change back to plain autolite.
I don't understand how the double patinums can be that bad anyway. If I don't get much service out of them, I will change back to plain autolite.