When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I removed the line from my pump and put finger over the port and no suck!!! so I would say without a doubt my pump is bad! If yall agree with me then what is the best way to fix.Is there a rebuild kit or do I replace etc... and also what are the costs?????? thanks psd fans......................
If the pump is bad the climate control will default to defrost and stay there. Is that what is happening? Can't blow air to floor or out dash vents? Can you here the pump running with key on engine off after releasing vacumn in the vacumn tank?
Last one I changed was on a 6.9. Required a special tool to remove the pully and install it on the new pump. With out the special tool you will badly damage the pully tring to get it off. Ford mechanic changed pullys for me for $10.00 so I didn't have to buy the tool.
You have a leak some where Mine did the samething! Replaced the pump still acted the same! Save your $$ If it runs its not bad! The part next to it is what was bad on mine after the vac. tank where the lines run to! The 4x4 Vac. switch! or what ever you call it! I pluged the main Vac. line to the switch no more problems Just got to turn the hubs to lock it in! AC, Vent, Works Just fine!! Hope this helps..........
Could just be the orings on one of the hubs. I've replaced my driverside once and my passenger side twice. I would just get some Warn hubs but I like the idea behind the auto lock hubs. Pull the lines off at the frame and check to see if the hubs are losing vacuum
Could just be the orings on one of the hubs. I've replaced my driverside once and my passenger side twice. I would just get some Warn hubs but I like the idea behind the auto lock hubs. Pull the lines off at the frame and check to see if the hubs are losing vacuum
Best way to go, thats what I did and plugged off the vaccum system. You can still have autohubs if you leave them locked in .
I'm kinda stubborn. I should know better and just get the Warn's but not real big on riding around with the hubs locked to have "auto". Once I get tired of replacing the orings I'll just get the Warn's. Which reminds me I got to find another leak AGAIN in the system cause the last time I used them the AC went to defrost.
There a 2 vac lines running over the top of the domed vac canister. One goes up and over the heater fan box. That one is for the climate control. The other one goes about a foot and connects to a 90 degree elbow. That is the vac line for your hubs. Pull this line apart at the elbow and put tape over the line that goes toward the fender. Turn on the key and you should hear the vac pump. It will shut off if it builds sufficient vacumn. It will take a few minutes, but before the pump turns off you should be able to get air flow to the dash panel and floor. If you do then you have a vac leak in the lines to the hubs or in the hubs.
I am going to look over some more vac lines but I guess I left you all in the dark...my truck already has warns on the front hubs and conversion kit.....all of my options work properly when in 2 wheel drive like vent floor defrost etc....,but I was reading on here sometime ago that if you key on engine off test this put your truck in 4x4 and put it in vent it should stay in vent but if you have a leak it will go to defrost!!!!whick is what my truck will do sorry and thanks