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Old Sep 21, 2008 | 06:51 PM
  #31  
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No need to bleed the system, also if you have a volt meter, check for voltage at the pump with the key on, remember the pump only runs for 20seconds, then shuts down.

On edit: There is no sound from a glow plug heater, there is a small click from the Glow plug relay, not sure if your are talking about the click from the relay as the sound you were hearing. Your vac pump also should not run on every start up, only when it runs out of vac, which depends on if you have a leak or not.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2008 | 06:53 PM
  #32  
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From: Carhenge
Originally Posted by bakerbuilttracks
yea the reset wasent tripped i still pushed on it. good idea on blowing through the lines from the pump back. if i do that will i need to bleed the system if so how. and if the pump were bad or an obstruction from the pump back would that cause the white smoke and all...
You can't blow air backwards thorugh the pump, it has a check ball in it.

If no noise rom the pump, take a test light and make sure it has power right after key on. If it's powered, then it's time for a new pump.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2008 | 06:54 PM
  #33  
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We were talking about blowing in the lines before the pump, if there is an obstruction in there, it will blow it to the tank.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2008 | 07:10 PM
  #34  
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yea i got a leak my 4x4 only works if i get out and lock the hubs... but hoe do i check the volts... which posts should i connect the meter to and what should it read...
 
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Old Sep 21, 2008 | 07:35 PM
  #35  
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the two posts at the pump, there are only two leads going to it. Hook it between the leads, if you read a negative number, your poles are just reversed. That is your voltage, key on and before 20 seconds run out, you should have over 10 volts to the pump.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2008 | 07:44 PM
  #36  
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If you have power to the pump, (I am pretty sure you do) then the pump is dead.
One trick that I have learned is to give the pump a thunk with a hammer handle or rubber mallet. Or a "love tap" with the hammer head. Enough to wake it up.
What happens is the brushes and the communtator inside wear out and the pump stops running.



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The jarring that you give it sometimes wakes it up for a few minutes, but all that really does is confirm that you need a new fuel pump.
Give it a thunk and if it starts running, start the truck and move it to where you want to work on it, then go buy a fuel pump, using a different vehicle.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2008 | 07:47 PM
  #37  
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They've got it covered. Just be sure to check for power to the pump before you buy another one. I made that mistake once.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2008 | 08:16 PM
  #38  
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cool well guys i cant thank yall enough for all the advice and time you have put into helping me i will test it tomm after work and post back my results. just for reassurance though if it is the pump why the white smoke
 
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Old Sep 22, 2008 | 12:08 AM
  #39  
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nice pic of commutator wear dan!

Quick way to check for fuel pressure is to depress the schrader valve in the fuel lines, should spray out so protect your eyes.

As far as obstructions, your pushing 50+ psi in there, plus a pre-filter. An obstruction doesn't seem likely. Fuel pumps are a failure item though.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2008 | 12:10 PM
  #40  
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Before the pump you are running vacuum not pressure. A blockage will stop the truck, ask me how I know lol. Now I would say there is little chance of a blockage after the pump where it is pressurized.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2008 | 03:44 PM
  #41  
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ok well i just got home and am bout to install my new pump let yall know how it turns out... john vac pressure befor the pump blockage after ???? kbeefy bad question schrader valve.. what is it where is it and how do i check it... and when i install the pump will i need to bleed the system if so how cuz it ran really bad for a while and if it were not pumping fuel it would have got air in it correct check back in a bit...
 
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Old Sep 22, 2008 | 04:33 PM
  #42  
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To bleed your fuel system, cycle the key to run (not start), and let the fuel pump run till it turns off (about 25 seconds). The first time do this with the cap off the fuel bowl, and make sure it fills the bowl, replace cap. Repeat 6-8 more times(with the cap on the fuel bowl). Start truck.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2008 | 06:27 PM
  #43  
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well got the old pump out and compaired it with the new one and whoa. the new one was shorter and the eletrical connections were diffrent. some off brand pump from the parts store. so they orderd me a bosch pump which is what i took off. in the diagram it looked the exact same. soooo with that beeing said check back tomm after i put the other one in and we will go from their hopfully it will be the fix... thanks for everyones help talk at yall tomm
 
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Old Sep 22, 2008 | 07:57 PM
  #44  
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There is no schrader valve on the superduties. That is on the old body style trucks with the mechanical fuel pump mounted in the engine valley.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2008 | 04:25 PM
  #45  
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ok guys just put the new pump in and had to check how brandon said to bleed the system just incase hope it works let ya know in a bit...
 
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