Ok I just acquired a 62 F 100 i6 223. I am just geting ready to start work on this truck as it has a few issues this truck ready for the road. I have only started and ran it for two short periods and it gets hot real quick,allso the oil lite on dash stays on when runing.What I am wondering is what is the best way to insure that oil pump is working??

 

First step, obviously, is to check the oil and make sure there's actually some in it. Would be a good idea to check all the fluids, especially coolant.

If the oil pump were not working at all, the engine wouldn't sound very healthy. You'd likely get some knocking and clattering. The light being on all the time doesn't necessarily mean the pump isn't working, the sending unit may be bad.

There may be a better way to check if the pump is working, but I think a quick easy way is to spin on a new oil filter and start it up for a few seconds. Then take the filter off and see if it has been filled.

-Rob

 

Get yourself an oil pressure gauge (even a cheap one) and remove the sender for the light, thread it in, and see what you've got.

 

Thanks for the ideas.I did check both the oil and coolant and they look good,I plan on doing a flush on both.Also the mechanical fuel pump is no working and previous owner in stalled a electric pump.How hard is it to rebuild the original fuel pump or should I just get new one.

 

Yes, mechanical oil pressure gauges are cheap and will rarely lie to you.

Mechanical fuel pumps are generally not rebuildable, but they're also very inexpensive to replace. I'll bet that electric pump cost more and was harder to install than a replacement mechanical one.

-Rob

 

Suggest check the wiring to the oil sensor on the engine block, make sure it's clean and secure. If connection is good then likely need a new sensor. I have both the idiot and electrical oil pressure gauge requiring installing an adapter in order to install both types of sending units.

May need to flush out the radiator, if already have anti freeze then suggest take precautions, don't want to risk health to children and pets. Also, check your timing, believe if it's running to far advance it tends to run hotter. Worse case is the radiator needs recore.

 

The oil light stays on, so what else is new?

The sending unit is bad, very common for that to occur, as it leaks oil past the threads.

Replace the sender.

 

Many of the fuel pumps are servicable to a degree...if yours has the screws around the outer edge of the upper and lower halves, its servicable..if its crimped...its not...typically the thing that goes bad is the diaphram which is the main part sandwiched inbetween the 2 halves...The mechanical pumps are easy to find and relatively inexpensive to as stated above vs. the electric...I went through fuel pump hell and fuel pump 101 last year and learned alot...I passed both courses with flying colors ultimately.
Look on the side of the pump where it bolts to the block...if you find something on it that says Carter...more then likely thats prolly the OE pump...the one I replaced last year was my original from 65...



- cs65

 

Opps, sorry-that's oil temp, not water temp. Well in event should experience water temp problems in the future I have added my $.02. Another senior moment, again!!

 

actually belive it or not, but, atleast for my truck, it was cheaper to go with the electric fuel pump. just make sure the PO spent that extra 10 dollars or so, and bought a block off plate for where the original fuel pump went, cause i was loosing alot of oil and spent a while trying to figure out why there was a rainbow up and down my road when its raining...{when you mix oil and water, you get that rainbow looking crap..} then i remember, great big hole in the side of my block... that has gotta be the reason.. started it up... and what do you know... drop drop drop drop...

now as for the install... electric was a bit harder then the mech. due to i had to drill 2 holes threw the inner fender... PIA, trying to fit the drill where i wanted it at... and using a drill bit not ment for steel or what ever kind of metal the inner fenders are..

and i think me and camperspecial went threw the same problems witht he fuel pumps, because people at certian parts stores... kept giving us the wrong pumps.... after arguing with one of the guys behind the CMP that probablly didnt even know what a fuel pump did.... i gave up, and went down to NAPA and got myself an electric fuel pump for about 50 dollars cheaper.... the problem CS and myself{or atleast myself, i dont remember about CS} had, was that they kept trying to give us a fuel pump for a different engine.... a the "big blocks" with a different arm on the end of them, that go up and down with the lobe on the crank-shaft? anyways... if you do go and pick up one... make sure its the right one, check with the guys in the fourns specific to the inline 6, or the 223 fourms... they can help you more on that one...

 

LOL Dave...thanks ...lol...OIL pressure ...Yes the sending units are a common part to go bad and cheap to replace...if the light goes out with engine wound up a lil bit, it would be ok in my opinion...but if it takes mashing the throttle to get it to go out or if it doesnt go out...ya...its a dead sending unit...at least you know the bulb is good there though :-)



If after you replace the sending unit the light still stays on constantly...thats a whole nother bag of worms...change the oil and go to a slightly heavier viscosity of oil....if after doing that, assuming you have to do it, and it doesnt work...oil pump and/or worn bearings....



- cs65

 

Consideration on fuel pumps...mechanical ones will usually just leak when they start to go bad. Electric ones quit completely.