ok so my truck has been acting up a little bit lately with goin gutless randomly then the check engine light so i went to start my truck today and take off the truck turned over but took about 3x the usual firing time then it ran incredibly low rpms for a second then just died, tried again and it started fast but almost died again then it was good...so i take off start in second gear then my truck starts vibrating REALLY bad all the way through second an into third so i pull over kick er into neutral and slide underneath to find that the rear end of the trans. or the transfer case is making a quiet but weird sound almost sounds like something was rubbing inside then the truck stopped vibrating the next time i took off then it did it a little bit more so i went home checked the u-joints they are as tight as they come transfer case did seem a lil wiggly but it wasnt loose but if i turn the front end driveshaft it sounds like theres dirt in the transfer case...does anyone know what the hell is going on it did this a little bit the first day or two i drove it but it was sittin for like 6 months then went away and now is back...someone please help i gotta get 40km to work tomorow somehow i need to know whats goin on

 

ok so i started this mornin it was kinda cool last night and it started without the slightest hesitation took reverse really well, it usually doesnt like goin into reverse, then took first good with no shaking so trans. and transfer case fluids are good so im goin to drive it to school today and see what it does

 

Anytime the check engine light comes on you need to read the codes.

 

...and sometimes when it doesn't!

Jason

P.S. fordfuelinjection.com if you're wondering how to read them...

 

Yes, pull the codes first.

How did you check your u-joints? If you just crawled under the truck and wiggled the driveshaft, you did it wrong. You have to take the tension out of the driveline, usually by jacking up the rear axle and putting the tranny in neutral. Then move the driveshaft around and look for movement.

 

well now the bugger is just fine runs perfect again...think the engine just missed or somethin that was messed up though

 

The codes from the previous problem may still be in the computer, I would pull them to see what it was complaining about.

 

well i did the KOEO/CM test these is what it looked like

|||||.||.||.|||||.||.||.|.|.|||||||.||.|.||.||

|= blinks
.=pauses

so i got codes 52,25,22 from the KOEO and 17,21,22 from the CM

the codes are

52-power steering pressure switch stays open or closed
21-ECT out of self test range 0.3-3.7 volts
22- MAP/BP sensor out of self test range

codes 25,17 dont apply cause i didnt get to the KOER test

so what do i need to do to this thing then replace all the stuff or fix it?

 

What year is your truck?

52 means you didn't cut the wheel back and forth when you were supposed to, so ignore that one.

21 means you ran the test while the engine was cold, so ignore it as well.

22 I'm not sure on. I would probably warm the engine up all the way (it's supposed to be) and check the codes again.

 

That is true, the test ranges for the sensors are based on the engine being warmed up. I didn't realize that a while back and thought it was strange that I checked for codes one day and didn't get any, and the next morning I tried and I did. Sounds like most of these codes are not going to point in a direction that would lead to your previous problem.

 

ya i think the previous problem was that the engine just missed the firing order or somethin...just put new plugs n wires on it...but ill try warmin it up a test it again tomorow thanks

@ andym truck is a 95 er

 

Then you should have three digit codes, not two digit ones.

 

k so then it would be

522, 522 and 172, 122

ok so code 522 is not in park or neautral during KOEO test

code 172 is HEGO sensor circuit indicates system lean (right side)

code 122 is TPS circuit below minimum 0.6 volts.
and TPS circuit has intermittently failed below minimum 0.6 volts.

ok so ill do it again this time when its warm and in neautral haha

 

ok i did it warm and in neutral and i got

5.2.2.5.2.2.1.1.7.2.1.7.2

so 522 is the neutral one and the truck WAS in neutral and 172 is that HEGO sensor thing

 

You're getting the 522 code not because it's in neutral, but because you weren't holding the clutch down while the computer checked the neutral safety switch.

The only one you really have to worry about is the O2 sensor. It may or may not be the sensor. An O2 sensor won't normally cause the truck to run bad, so 172 (system lean) might mean you have a vacuum leak or something else that's causing the truck to run lean.