Drum Brake Corrosion
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From: Higginsville, MO
Drum Brake Corrosion
Hey guys...wondering if you had any ideas to throw at this. About 4 or 5 months ago I had to put new brake shoes on my rear drums on my 2004 ranger 4x4. I have had a problem since the truck was about a year old that when it gets damp or cold that the rear brakes would stick if I set the parking brake and then one day as I was rocking the truck to get the rear brakes to release, it shucked all the friction material off the drivers side shoes. I know that the cables release but the shoes stick.
Then about 2 weeks ago my rear brakes start sticking really bad again. Mostly holding the truck from wanting to go forward but it would roll backwards really easily. Yesterday I pull the drums back off and discover that the inside parts are heavily corroded and the adjuster cable had snapped. I got a rebuild kit and replaces the adjuster cable, adjuster, moisture plug, and adjuster cable guide.
Anybody have any ideas why I would have so much corrosion in the drivers side drum and not in the passenger side?
Thanks for your help.
Then about 2 weeks ago my rear brakes start sticking really bad again. Mostly holding the truck from wanting to go forward but it would roll backwards really easily. Yesterday I pull the drums back off and discover that the inside parts are heavily corroded and the adjuster cable had snapped. I got a rebuild kit and replaces the adjuster cable, adjuster, moisture plug, and adjuster cable guide.
Anybody have any ideas why I would have so much corrosion in the drivers side drum and not in the passenger side?
Thanks for your help.
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 624
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From: FL
park the other way round ? just kidding lol. seriously i think this is a ranger thing. mine do this routinely + try to lock up until i use the brakes a few times in the morning. then it seems to clear up. i have stopped setting the parking brake when i leave it. i don't see any way around the problem except to change out to a disc brake system.
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2007
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During a normal drive, my driver's rear drum heats up to 180+ degrees, while the passenger side is a nice 110 degrees.. sure wish I could get the drum off to see what's going on in there..
After the truck sits a while, the rear brakes prevent the truck from moving until you break 'em free..
Sorry I can't offer much help, but it seems like a common problem.
After the truck sits a while, the rear brakes prevent the truck from moving until you break 'em free..
Sorry I can't offer much help, but it seems like a common problem.
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: SW Va
Hey guys...wondering if you had any ideas to throw at this. About 4 or 5 months ago I had to put new brake shoes on my rear drums on my 2004 ranger 4x4. I have had a problem since the truck was about a year old that when it gets damp or cold that the rear brakes would stick if I set the parking brake and then one day as I was rocking the truck to get the rear brakes to release, it shucked all the friction material off the drivers side shoes. I know that the cables release but the shoes stick.
Then about 2 weeks ago my rear brakes start sticking really bad again. Mostly holding the truck from wanting to go forward but it would roll backwards really easily. Yesterday I pull the drums back off and discover that the inside parts are heavily corroded and the adjuster cable had snapped. I got a rebuild kit and replaces the adjuster cable, adjuster, moisture plug, and adjuster cable guide.
Anybody have any ideas why I would have so much corrosion in the drivers side drum and not in the passenger side?
Thanks for your help.
Then about 2 weeks ago my rear brakes start sticking really bad again. Mostly holding the truck from wanting to go forward but it would roll backwards really easily. Yesterday I pull the drums back off and discover that the inside parts are heavily corroded and the adjuster cable had snapped. I got a rebuild kit and replaces the adjuster cable, adjuster, moisture plug, and adjuster cable guide.
Anybody have any ideas why I would have so much corrosion in the drivers side drum and not in the passenger side?
Thanks for your help.
You'll also want to make sure that the little rubber cap is on the brake bleed valve, to keep moisture & dirt out, so it won't rust tight from the inside.
If a wheel is hot, it's a sign that the brake shoe or pad is dragging & not fully releasing for some reason.
In the case of drum brakes, we can set the brake shoe drag, with the brake adjuster.
On a disc brake system, it's a sign that the caliper pins, or caliper may be bound or corroded up & in need of cleaning & lubrication, or replacement of the corroded parts.
Just a bunch of brake thoughts for pondering.
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 295
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From: poughkeepsie ny
Anybody have any ideas why I would have so much corrosion in the drivers side drum and not in the passenger side?
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Posting Guru
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From: Higginsville, MO
Shoes are draging on drivers side pretty bad. I replaced the adjuster cable, adjuster, cable guide and rubber plug just the other day. the old plug was fine but I though since I had a new one I would go ahead and change it.
More Turbo
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From: FL
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: central ohio
my adjuster cables snapped some time ago, i just adjust them manually now. havent had a problem with the park brake releaseing , but i very rarely use the parking brake. whenever i have the rear drums off i spray brakeclean all over everything to clean it off, then lube the cable end with wd-40. only rear brake issue ive really had was a blown wheel cylinder on the r.h. side. i rebuilt it with the wheel cylinder still on the truck.
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Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: May 2004
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From: Higginsville, MO
Well I finally found the culprit to the hanging brakes. The short cable that goes from the main cable to the driver's rear wheel is corroded. Time for a new cable! When I did the shoe replacement I had the drums turned due to the rear shoe coming apart and scarring the inside of the drivers side drum. For now I have the cable to the drivers side parking brake disconnected but I will change the cable and start using it again since it is such a habit for me since all I have ever owned for the last 14 years is stick shifts and I always use the parking brake.
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Joined: Aug 2008
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Well I finally found the culprit to the hanging brakes. The short cable that goes from the main cable to the driver's rear wheel is corroded. Time for a new cable! When I did the shoe replacement I had the drums turned due to the rear shoe coming apart and scarring the inside of the drivers side drum. For now I have the cable to the drivers side parking brake disconnected but I will change the cable and start using it again since it is such a habit for me since all I have ever owned for the last 14 years is stick shifts and I always use the parking brake.
I had the same problem with my driver side rear wheel on my 2000 Ranger, the truck felt like the parking brake wasn't releasing when I was driving it, so I pulled both rear wheels and drums, the passengers side shoes and drum were fine, but the drivers side front shoe was about completely gone. I replaced the drums and shoes and all the hardware, and also the parking brake cable that runs from the middle cable to the drivers side rear wheel because it was corroded so badly that it no longer moved in it's sleeve.
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Cheswick, Pa.
Parking brake has been sticking on my '99 2x4 for years. I can't tell which wheel. At least three times I have taken drums off and cleaned and readjusted everything, even bought new spring kit. My latest brake change shows no unusual wear. It still sticks bad in cold or damp weather. I always want to set the brake because that's the way to keep it from freezing in place inside the shroud one day. Guess I'll check that short cable as suggested. Thanks.
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: SW Va
Parking brake has been sticking on my '99 2x4 for years. I can't tell which wheel. At least three times I have taken drums off and cleaned and readjusted everything, even bought new spring kit. My latest brake change shows no unusual wear. It still sticks bad in cold or damp weather. I always want to set the brake because that's the way to keep it from freezing in place inside the shroud one day. Guess I'll check that short cable as suggested. Thanks.
In snow country, or salty coastal areas, if it rubs through that cover, corrosion could cause the cable to bind up inside & be unseen there, but look just fine at the backing plate.
You'll have to move the cable away from the shock to see the rub spot.
I fastened a piece of rubber over the cable to prevent it from rubbing the shock tubing.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,979
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From: central ohio
i noticed on mine there was a worn-trough spot on the passenger side cable where it had been rubbing against the shock for years. i slid a piece of heater hose around it to act as a bushing. im surprized mine even work at all after 15 years of service. i do have to adjust my drums manually, but thats not too bad a job.