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my a/c installation is about 70% complete now. i never have had a/c so i put on the different pulleys and mounted the compressor, and i need to put a belt(s) on it. does the compressor get its own belt and the power steering pump get its own belt also? so i would be running 3 belts total? because it seems like i need just one humungous belt that will share the compressor and ps pump. in order for them to both have their own belts it seems like the only possible way would be to turn the wheel around on the ps pump, so that the groove would align. but i dont even think thats a rational idea.
My 352 has p/s and a/c, but I pulled the a/c belt so long ago I forget how it all goes, but it runs fine without the belt. It did not run any other accy, as it had it's only tensioner pulley and likely ran off crank and maybe waterpump too? The belt is hanging in the garage, as a/c won't hold a charge due to very old hoses and the compressor clutch started to get a bit of squeal to it.
i just got all brand new hoses and a dryer as well. so im hoping everything will go smoothly here. i still have to do electrical, and then get the system charged. the hoses were not long enough somehow. this is a factory a/c setup from a 72 and i have a 69. what will be tricky is having my stock wiring harness somehow connected to this new unit connectors.
but yeah this belt situation is wierd because i bought a belt last nite and it dont fit, way too short. oh and this new hose setup eliminates the check valve and siteglass that are attached to the fitting that goes on the dryer. everybody tells me they have no idea if this is a bad idea or not, but an a/c guy i know says many systems dont have the check valve or siteglass nowadays because you have a gauge on the charger.
is anybody using, (i mean not using) hc12a refrigerant? i have read that r134a in an r12 system will not be a good idea no matter how much you flush it and vacuum it. and ive read that hc12a is more powerful than r12.
Ok, the layout of my belts:
Crank has 4 groove pulley. Inner groove is alt/waterpump, next out is waterpump/power steering, third is nothing. The outer groove is A/C and it runs crank up to a/c and over to single tensioner pulley.
yeah that sounds like the setup i want but it doesnt seem i can have the power steering pump use its own belt now because the ac compressor is perfectly aligned with it like it uses one huge belt for both. so can i turn the ps pulley around or something? or get a different pulley to bolt onto the pump?
I wonder what brackets you have for your a/c compressor? Maybe yours does run off p/s belt and mine doesn't? I'll try to get a pic tonight and post it.
is anybody using, (i mean not using) hc12a refrigerant? i have read that r134a in an r12 system will not be a good idea no matter how much you flush it and vacuum it. and ive read that hc12a is more powerful than r12.
what i heard is when putting r134a in a r12 system you cant charge the 134 to the r12 s pound capacity.but was told as long as you fush every thing it shuold be fine.and as far as the hc12a im assuming thats what they call "freeze 12" at my parts store and as long as you have a license you can purchase it, it is to replace r12 without having to changing everything over and the parts guy said that the people that use it swear by it. my 87 suburban needs a/c work and thats what im gana use is the freeze 12,but havnt got to it yet.
Regarding belts/pulleys,heres what ive got!ive got a 3 belt pulley off the crank. inner belt runs water pump,and power steering(if i bought a longer belt it could also line up with inner pulley on Alternator).center belt runs water pump and Alternator(it lines up with outer pulley on alt.) outer belt(missing,what a shock!) has 2 idler pulleys that align with A/C compressor pulley,and outermost pulley on crank snout.idler pulley on drivers side of eng. block is mounted on bracket for power steering pump,and it sits between water pump pulley and P/s pump. Idler pulley on pass. side of eng. block is mounted on a bracket that bridges the gap between the water pump and alternator. I hope this offers some help,but do remember,this truck has power steering,and all ive read states that 67-72 4wd's never offered P/s(its technically power assist)so obviously its been changed. This truck is a factory A/C cab with the proper controls in dash,and the brackets/idlers,etc. appear to be FoMoCo............
I still use R12 in mine, but I have 90+# of it. On R134 you want to start at 60% of R12 charge. The main problem with R134 in R12 is the mineral oil, it turns to acid with 134. So if you have a clean system with the POA (syn) oil base no problem using it. But you loose about 33% of your effective cooling on the conversion. 134 requires a larger evap and cond to be efficent.
I have used freeze 12, did not like it. (it was removed from approved mobile use, soon as it was released). There was suppose to be a R12 replacement that is actually an exact replacement. I've had been retired for 5 yrs now an no longer get the ref tech data any more. I have a Universal liesend + mobile, so can get any thing. My specialty was low temp cascade systems down to -100C.
Wish you were around Ohio blue68, as I got a 70's model Coke vending machine that needs some looking at. Ran fine, now runs and don't get cold. System has never been opened.
You can take the mobile cfc certification, it's only 2-4 hrs. Then you can buy it, it's still available. Then you will know what the law is all about. Small Appliances requires a different certification. And small systems are hard to work on. My guess is that you lost a valve in the compressor, most common over time. My dad still has a 1955 Admirial ref that still works, door seals are gone and rusted pretty bad.
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