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I am putting together the ultimate 4x4. I own a Suzuki Samurai. The power output leaves something to be desired, to say the least. So... i decided it needs some Ford aggression . I tore the Samurai to the frame, welded on a full 3" roll cage and did some extensive frame strengthening. I bought a newly rebuilt (15k on it) 76' 360 with an NP 435 attached and in great shape($200!!). I custom mounted it and ran out of room for my semi tractor radiator. So... i mounted it behind the driver and passenger. Herein lies my prob. What can i use to connect the relocated radiator to the engine? I was thinking copper or a type of tubing called tygon. I haven't spent a fortune on this project (2k at the most) and would like to keep it that way. Also, what axle combo should i look at? Maybe Ford 9"?? The transfer case is from the Samurai, those things will take a phenominal amt of stress. I plan on beating the ##### out of this thing and want it to be able to take a beating and keep on going, begging for more. It has Summit racing seats, and RJS 5pt harnesses (Ford blue of course!!) I relocated the battery to the back and ran 0 gauge cable to the engine compartment. The power to weight ratio will be a killer. This thing is beyond modified! Any tips or hints would be appreciated, Thanks
JOE
I don't think I would use either copper tube or the Tygon. Should probably go with a stainless steel tube for corrosion resistance or mild steel like a muffler tube. Go to a muffler shop and have them bend it to shape and use short lengths of radiator hose to couple it together. I have a couple of friends down in Southern California that run mid engine V8 sandrails with side mounted radiators and this works really well for them.
Do what he said. There is a guy on here named Brett? I believe, with a truck like mine and the radiator mounted in back. His name is byerks, im sure he could tell you how to doit
You can go right to NAPA and get radiator hose to fit a tractor radiator, I know I have gotten custom lengths I needed for Ford L9000 tractors. The thing is cost (per foot) and safety.
I like the previous post about having custom bent tubes (make sure it is beaded on the end) and using short lengths to make the connections. Do NOT run it through the passenger compartment. Getting antifreeze or its mist in your eyes can literally blind you.
I built a rock crawler Suzuki for a customer he rolled his blazer and it startted on fire so I installed his 350 and the Dana 44 axles on it and still used the Suzuki T/C it held up just fine for rock crawling you want to go with an awesome suspension on it I fabed 4-link with coilovers on the front and back and he has over 32"s of articulation with it he just can't drive it on the street the ratios are extremely low for crawling
One thing is for sure, planting a big block ford into a spot where there was previously a 1.3 4-banger, definitely took time and patients. I haven't had much time to work on it lately, with school and work occupying all my time. I have the entire drivetrain completely bolted in, including the fabricated driveshafts. This thing looks mean!! The radiator is relocated like i said and for coolant lines, i am using 1 3/4" id metal water pipe that i bought from lowes. I fabricated my own hydralulic pipe bender and am in the process of bending the lines underneath my Summit racing seats and around the drivetrain. I did the math and found that my entire coolant system will hold 6-7 gallons of antifreeze/water!! Hopefully cooling the big block won't be that much trouble!! Pictures are to come i promise. I am more than happy to answer any questions or take any suggestions you may have. reply or email them to me at liljpy_1999(No Email Addresses In Posts!). Happy Off-Roading!! joe
there is a guy on pirate4x4.com that has a sammy with a 350,turbo 400, np205, 44 tsl's and rockwell 2 1/2 ton axles, with coils, he just extended the frame
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