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Oil Pan Done

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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 01:18 PM
  #1  
Tim J's Avatar
Tim J
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Oil Pan Done

I did it. I cut the support under the engine to replace the oil pan. I painted the new Ford OEM pan with Rust Bullet to avoid having to do this again. I made mending plates which I welded to the center section I removed and then bolted it back to the L & R remaining sides holding the motor mounts and track bar bracket. I did support the engine from above with an engine hoist to relieve the pressure and avoid spreading the L & R sides of the support. Well... all said and done....A 5 day project (I was on surgery recovery leave from work and rather slow moving) and It seems to be just fine. The test drive was from NH to PA. About +400 miles. and back 5 days later. I'll get under it again soon just to see how everything is holding together. Once I am confident that the oil pan is well sealed, I can weld the center section back in if it seems necessary. $2200 saved.....as that was the local dealer quote I recieved. I have a few pictures, but dont know if I can post them as I am a new user.
Tim
early 99 F350 4x4 CC SB SRW
 
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 01:21 PM
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Congratulations, and you just received what may be your first rep points. If mine were to ever need doing (which it won't) that's how I would do it with no fear at all.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 01:27 PM
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Great tim
Fabrication can be difficult you should be proud, hope to see pics soon.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 01:53 PM
  #4  
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I'll share pics, but dont know how yet. I did procrastinate doing this project, but I had the time and don't want to go thru another winter of plowing being concerned about the JB weld letting go from one of the SIX holes in the pan. My Dr. said I had to spend some time each day on my back.....and I thought...laying on a creeper is on my back!
 
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 02:00 PM
  #5  
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Good job, rep points given. Following the doctors orders, seems like you did just that.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 02:13 PM
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If you can weld, then i guess thats the easier way if you absolutely cannot pull the engine.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 02:13 PM
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If you want, I can post the pics for you but you should be able to add them to your gallery no problem.

I really would like to see the pics since Im about due for the same thing. I dont have any holes yet, just rust, but im going to attempt the sample kits repair from POR15 first.

Also, reps given!
 
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 02:52 PM
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Nice work really gotta feel good about saving some dough now u can spend it on some mods
 
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 03:43 PM
  #9  
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Good Job Tim. That must have been a pita. Glad you got it fixed.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 04:10 PM
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Tim, what did you cut the support with? Saw, plasma cutter, torch??? You make it sound easy. Good job! I'm just not sure that the Dr. would agree with you on your activity while being on your back.....
 
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 04:45 PM
  #11  
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Good Job Tim J....for you making me a beliver!!!!

Tim where did ya get ur oil pan gasket...cant seem to find it anyone online.
Which type of bolts did you use...size?
Which type of sealent did you use?

Am subscribing...depending on if i can acquire 12(aifcraft) or even 20(mining equip) grade bolts i'll be doing it this weekend! And..there will be step by step instructions for this pita job. I think I got my mind wrapped around it pretty well but i'll try and hold off until i see how Tim J has done it.

But since I only want to do this once...I know there are some other things I should look for when the pan is off. What do you guys suggest?
 
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 06:24 PM
  #12  
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First off.....I have to give credit to another FTE member who I emailed with who has done a few oil pans with this method. I have to find his e-mail and thanks him.

Ford never made a pan gasket for the 7.3. If you order one....the dealer sells you a $16 tube of sealant,....but you have to be careful because there is a shelf life I'm told. I used Black RTV from the local autoparts store.

Grade A bolts: 11- 3/8" , 9- 7/16", and the existing track bar bracket bolt that attaches thru the crossmember on the front D/s.

I used cardboard to make templates for the steel mending plates.
It's easier to explain with pictures. I am having problems convincing my computer to make me a gallery. So I will keep trying. But this will probably take me till later this week. So if anyone would like me to email them pictures and a more detailed explanation, PM me.....can I put my email addr here? or is that against some rule?

I cut the xmember with thin 5" cutoff wheel on a grinder and a sawsall. I would have preferred a torch or plasma cutter.

I replaced the oil pump pickup, but dont think I needed to. The old one was in excellent condition.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 06:31 PM
  #13  
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Good job on the oil pan. Just sanded mine down to bare metal and coated with hi-temp woodstove paint, holding up pretty good so far.. Reps sent....
 
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 06:52 PM
  #14  
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congrats Tim,,still not convinced this is the way to go...but that's my thoughts. I want to tow..and pushing snow is hard on a front end and frame as it is..especially with the amount of wet snow we get up here in one storm.....for me I would want to pull the motor..good time to clean and check things out...maybe re do the lower end...where in NH are you at if I may ask...
 
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 08:23 AM
  #15  
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Tim J
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Do I think that Cutting the Crossmember was the best method? No. Like many of you, I would have prefered to Pull the engine. But I dont have the time (my 9 month old takes up every last minute!) or the equiptment. If....or when the JB weld let go....I would have to have it towed home and there it would sit. I wanted to do this on my schedule w/o leaving me stranded. The other problem is that if I were to pull the engine, I would want to rebuild this and that and replace all sorts of parts which would end up costing far more than a trip to the dealer. Like everyone else in the northern states......we gotta cut corners to heat our homes......so I needed the cheapest way out w/o selling the truck for somthing more economical.
I will still tow, and plow. If I can see any shifting of the crossmember joints, I'll disconnect the ECM and weld it in. If it's metal....and it's done right, you can weld and retain original strength.

I'm from Freedom/Conway up by you. Settled down in Deerfield, about 15m E of Manchester.
 
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