Hey guys, the company I work for has a '96 f150 4x4 5.0L Auto with dual tanks. I started driving it about a week ago. The rear tank fuel pump does not work. The guy who drove it before never bothered to get it fixed. A guy picked up a used fuel pump from a junkyard. Pulled the tank this morning and the tops of the pump are different. Are there different pumps front and rear tanks? Or is it just the wrong part?

Any help would be great,

Chris

 

Yes the the front and rear pumps (FDM) are different.

EDIT:
However the pumps inside the FDM are the same for the front and rear tanks but very hard to change.

 

Thanks Subford,

kinda thought that was it. Now I gotta put it back together so I can get to work tomorrow. And the football games start soon(Noon). Plus it's raining.

Thanks again,

Chris

 

The biggest difference I noticed when replacing both my pumps in my trucks dual tanks is the angle of the sending unit and pump sitting in the tank.
The rear one will have less of an angle and the 2 fuel line ports will point in a different direction than the front one does.

Subford is right that the pump itself is the same part # and fits both sending units. But a side by side comparison of the front and rear assemblies will show several different angles in each one.

 

How hard is it to change the fuel pump. I have changed fuel pumps in Chevies before, but this is the first Ford in-tank pump I've tried to change.

Chris

 

You have a choice.
You can either pull the bed off and do the change from the top of the tank.
Or, You can drop the tank and do it that way.

The locking ring turns to lock the assembly in place so a punch of some sort and a hammer will be necessary to remove the lock ring.
Do not use a steel punch for risk of sparks, Use something made of brass.

I had to change both my pumps and one sending unit so far and found it much easier to drop the tank.
The other tool you will need is the for the fuel line to unlock the internal clip holding the lines onto the 2 sending unit tubes.

Autozone has a diagram here,
AutoZone.com | Vehicle Selection - Year
The 2nd picture is the connection I am describing.

The pump itself is pushed onto the sending unit assembly and quite often a royal PITA to remove. You have to pry the clips out of the pump body.
2 really wide slotted screw drivers work well to do this.

This link below will help explain alot of what you need to do and how to do it.
AutoZone.com | Vehicle Selection - Year

You can use this guide or maybe buy a chiltons manual which explains it real well too.


Darn links
When you go to the autozone site, Along the left side is the menu,
Under that menu is a repair section,

Repair Info
Vehicle Repair Guides
Troubleshooting
Component Locations
Specifications
Product and How To Info
Glossary

Go to Vehicle repair guides and find your 96 F-150 guides.

 

Thanks baffledinpa,

I already had the tank dropped far enough to see the fuel lines were different. Put it back together and will have to wait till next week and work on it again. Knew I should have checked here first before tearing it apart. Thanks for the info. My '65 sure is a lot simpler to work on.

Chris

 

What do you mean when you say the tops of the pumps are different? If the diameter of the top of the pumps is different, then you got a pump from an earlier truck. If the plugs are different, then one of the pumps is a Motorcraft replacement pump (Ford changed the connectors). If you are referring to the angle of the pump unit with respect to how it sits in the tank, then yes the pump is likely from a front tank.

I'm not an expert by any means but I just went through the process of changing tanks and pumps front and back on my 94.

 

The top as in the inlet / outlet tube direction as well as the angle at which it sits in the tank. You are correct that the front and rear units sit on different angles. However, The top of the sending unit itself is the same diameter of 3 1/2 inches. The front sending unit inlet / outlet tubes on my truck pointed towards the front of the truck and the rear ones pointed towards the drivers side.

Both my sending units had the spider type clip, I had to use a special disconnecting tool to remove them. When you push it back it it snaps into the flexible lines and little fingers inside hold the lines on the sending unit.

Hope you can follow my thoughts here, I sometimes explain things a bit different than others might.

 

Oh those lovely little top hat looking things...you sure can tell that those connectors were made for assembly purposes only with no thought to future disassembly! At least they didn't use hard plastic line (that gets brittle and breaks) like the general did on alot of stuff.

 

Yup, Thats the tool I mean.
I bought a set of 6 different sizes and haven't used the dang things since.
I hate those connections. You need 3 hands to get them apart most times.

 

Hey guys,

working on the truck again today. Got the fuel tank out. How do I get the red and black wires disconnected?

 

They unplug about 1 ft from the FDM.




Then you splice the new FDM to the wires inside the tank.

/

 

Thanks Subford,

Took the reservoir apart and disconnected red and black from the fuel pump. Put it all back together and took it for a test drive. Works great. Thanks again for all the help.

Chris