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Problem with charging system-NEED HELP!

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Old Sep 13, 2008 | 10:23 PM
  #1  
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Problem with charging system-NEED HELP!

I have a 79 F250 4X4 with 351M, Auto trans. Purchased it a few week ago. The idoit light was on and read "alt". It had a new regulator and altanator on it from Checker Auto( OH NO ). I took it to them and the Altnator was putting out 14.3 Amps.They could not check the regulator. I returned home and removed the regulator off of a 1975 F250 parts truck I have and replaced the one on the 75. The ALT light went off. I drove the truck for a short time and then the light started coming on and off and then stayed off. I took the truck to the mountains about 60 miles away. On the return trip the ALT came on and remained on. I parked the truck so I could make a side trip to the emergancy hospital and get my finger stiched up.Today, a week later I got in the truck and drove it another 15 miles with the ALT light on. At the end of the 15 miles the battry was dead. I put a fully charged battery in the truck and contuned to drive some with the light on. I started back the 15 miles and after a mile or so the light goes out, then it came back on and then off and so on untill it stayed off. Does any body have any idea as to what I should do? (sorry for the typing but finger is still stiched up)

Gary
Fords will be running long after th GM Junk is on the scrap heap!
 
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 11:48 AM
  #2  
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Dr. Dirt
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bump to the top
 
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 12:02 PM
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77f2504by4
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I'm no expert in electrical, but it sounds like it could be a few things. a bad ground causes 80% of all electrical issues with these trucks. or it could be a corroded wire/connector. it could even be a broken/damaged wire/connector. i would get out the meter and start testing the continuity of the wires involved, also looking for cuts or breaks in wires, corrosion or busted connectors. also while the truck is running what is the voltage across the battery posts? it should be above 12V mine is usually around 14V. if the voltage drops when the light is on and goes up when the light goes out, I'm almost certain its a bad wire/connector/ground.

i hope that made sense
 
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 12:33 PM
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fmc400
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Measure the voltage across the battery terminals with the motor running, and post back the voltage you see.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2008 | 10:07 AM
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Sorry, I don't know how to "bump tp the top"
 
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Old Sep 16, 2008 | 10:10 AM
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I will check the voltage and check for lose conection and post back. Thanks
 
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Old Sep 16, 2008 | 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by gary85314
Sorry, I don't know how to "bump tp the top"
he was just getting the post up to the top of the forum. othewise it will get pushed to the 2nd page without getting answered.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2008 | 01:24 PM
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Thanks blue bomer for moving it to the top. If you could tell me how then i can do it next time.Gary
 
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Old Sep 16, 2008 | 01:32 PM
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I have checked the voltage with the truck running and alt light off for now. the out put is 14.1 V. I looked at the wiring and it appears sound, wiggled all the conectors and they seem tight. remonve bat cables and cleaned and retightened.
bat ground is secured to exhaust header and tight. Alt light is still out. Not sure when it will come back on?

Gary.

Fords will still running long after the GM Junk is on the scrap heap!
 
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Old Sep 16, 2008 | 02:30 PM
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to "Bump" a thread to the top just post a reply. something along the lines of "bump to the top" or " bumpity bump bump". and Dr Dirt gave your thread the bump, thank him.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2008 | 03:15 PM
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We once had a tow truck we black-taped the "check engine" light & never had any other problems with it & jump-started other vehicles & everything...........I also had a explorer that the "alt." lite stayed till I turned the idle set screw till I got 1000 rpm at idle, it never came back on & had no charging probs either, damned electrical gremlins can sometimes drive you insane before you find them .

. I once had a car that when you hit the brakes it nearly died, coughed, spluttered, it was the tail lite socket had worn thru and was grounding out the whole electrical system, replaced the socket, never had anymore probs
 
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Old Sep 18, 2008 | 03:28 PM
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bump to the top
 
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Old Sep 18, 2008 | 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by gary85314
bump to the top
LOL :)
The thread only needs to be bumped when it's being ignored. :)

I've never used the "B" word before but have for years stated my best guess
and added "but I don't know anything about it really". Sometimes the OP would
jump all over me for posting in his thread and for "not knowing anything". LOL :)

Then the thread would take off in two directions, one, suddenly take off with
answers after being ignored for weeks and the other a fight over the OP
being a butthead. :)

Alvin in AZ (an old newsgroup junkie)
ps- electrical problems are easier to find if you use a friggin meter! :/
pps- why don't guys like to use a meter? :/
ppps- why? :/
pppps- recently found a vacuum leak after buying a vacuum pump/vacuum system tester
 
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Old Oct 10, 2008 | 05:12 AM
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I have been able to get this problen fixed. After much searching Ifound the problem and though I would post so maybe it might help someone else in the future. Since the light would go on and off at random it was hard to get a meter on it when it was on. It stayed on and would not go out so I got under the hood and started wiggling the wires and found that it was the harnes. I then put a glove on and put my hand behind the alternater and push on the wires. The push on conectors were not on tight and move in a little bit. The light has gone out and has stayed out for about 150 miles. I think the problem is solved. I hope this will help some one in the future. Thanks to every one for there help. Gary
 
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Old Oct 10, 2008 | 11:01 AM
  #15  
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From: Memphis, TN
glad you fixed it. stuff wiggles loose after 20 or so years. i wish i could get a weekend just to go over all the bolts on my truck to replace them or atleast make sure they are tight.
 
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