Problem upgrading brakes...Help!!
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Problem upgrading brakes...Help!!
So Ive been upgrading the brakes on the 65 to disc all has gone smooth up until now...
I have read from one user who has a web page.... that his master cylinder shaft was too long and had to shorten it...which after doing more reading found that to be common....
So im ready to shorten it and I put it in to measure it...and low and behold its an 1.25" too short!!
I need to lengthen the rod...I guess...I found that the diameter of the rod is the same as an extension for a ratchet...so should I find some rod that diameter and weld it in and put a sleeve over it and weld that??
Any Better Ideas??
I have read from one user who has a web page.... that his master cylinder shaft was too long and had to shorten it...which after doing more reading found that to be common....
So im ready to shorten it and I put it in to measure it...and low and behold its an 1.25" too short!!
I need to lengthen the rod...I guess...I found that the diameter of the rod is the same as an extension for a ratchet...so should I find some rod that diameter and weld it in and put a sleeve over it and weld that??
Any Better Ideas??
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The master cylinder and booster I have are from a 79 ford f100...
The shafts on the 75 and less power brakes are shorter than what Ive got.
I dont know about just a master cylinder....with no booster.
The shafts on the 75 and less power brakes are shorter than what Ive got.
I dont know about just a master cylinder....with no booster.
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From: sanford
It's been a long time since i have done that mod. This is what I went by when I did mine.http://mongrelmotorsports.homestead....0discs.html.If this dont help you out,I WILL get of my lazy567 and take a look at mine to refresh my memory
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Hey chaser... yeah thats the guy I was referring too.. I think his name is david?? cant remember... anyway. He had to shorten his shaft... Im going to need to extend mine...
I would do something similar to what he has done but the shaft on the power booster is thicker... so Im going to go shoppin in the morning after I go to a H.A.M.B. Breakfast meeting... Im thinking about doing a solid rod welded in between... and then taking either some sheet metal bent around that and welded to form a sleeve.. or .. find some pipe that will go around.. but I think that some steel bent around the shaft would form a tighter and more stable fit.... ??? what do you think???
I would do something similar to what he has done but the shaft on the power booster is thicker... so Im going to go shoppin in the morning after I go to a H.A.M.B. Breakfast meeting... Im thinking about doing a solid rod welded in between... and then taking either some sheet metal bent around that and welded to form a sleeve.. or .. find some pipe that will go around.. but I think that some steel bent around the shaft would form a tighter and more stable fit.... ??? what do you think???
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From: sanford
If you're gonna weld,Hopefully you have a mig or tig.Stick=PITA
1)Do like mongrel did with the sleave then weld the brake pedal end onto the rod---same rod diameter all the way
2) I would probably get a peice of square tubing to put the 2 different size rods together
3 If you only have a stick welder I would lay the rods into a peice of channel and weld them.
It wont matter to much if they are'nt straight because one end sets in a pocket like a push rod and the other end pivots on the brake pedal
1)Do like mongrel did with the sleave then weld the brake pedal end onto the rod---same rod diameter all the way
2) I would probably get a peice of square tubing to put the 2 different size rods together
3 If you only have a stick welder I would lay the rods into a peice of channel and weld them.
It wont matter to much if they are'nt straight because one end sets in a pocket like a push rod and the other end pivots on the brake pedal
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From: garden valley, ca
do some research there are some adjustable ones out there that make things easy, i didnt have the power brakes but still had the same problem but reverse.
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Ive got a Mig welder...
I think Tractor Supply has some round bar in about the same size...Im gonna go check tomorrow.
Didnt quite get what you meant about the square tubing...
But I will look in the morning and see what all will go over the shaft.
I assume anything that will give some back up is a good thing.
I think Tractor Supply has some round bar in about the same size...Im gonna go check tomorrow.
Didnt quite get what you meant about the square tubing...
But I will look in the morning and see what all will go over the shaft.
I assume anything that will give some back up is a good thing.
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From: Elizabethtown, PA
Hi fellas,
That's my site you're referring to. Since I used manual brakes things may indeed be different when using a booster. If we can come to some concensus on what is different/needs to be done I'll happily add it to the site.
The pedal rods are pretty heavy rod. If you can't find something that you're certain won't deflect then I'd agree in sleeving it somehow. As noted above, getting it the correct length is more important than achieving perfect straightness. An adjustable arrangement would be the best but it would also require a way of locking the adjustment after setting it to the correct length. Should the adjuster move it could really cause problems.
I welded that 'sleeve' on mine to connect the severed bits. You'll want to have the rod go into the sleeve as far as possible on each end as this will help make it more rigid. Then just weld the rod where it enters the sleeve to fix the length. Not hard, though as I mention on the page I had to do it twice to get it right!
That's my site you're referring to. Since I used manual brakes things may indeed be different when using a booster. If we can come to some concensus on what is different/needs to be done I'll happily add it to the site.
The pedal rods are pretty heavy rod. If you can't find something that you're certain won't deflect then I'd agree in sleeving it somehow. As noted above, getting it the correct length is more important than achieving perfect straightness. An adjustable arrangement would be the best but it would also require a way of locking the adjustment after setting it to the correct length. Should the adjuster move it could really cause problems.
I welded that 'sleeve' on mine to connect the severed bits. You'll want to have the rod go into the sleeve as far as possible on each end as this will help make it more rigid. Then just weld the rod where it enters the sleeve to fix the length. Not hard, though as I mention on the page I had to do it twice to get it right!
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From: sanford
After a little sleep I think I remembered what the difference is.The brake pedals changed shape.I think it was the curve in the arm.
I was just thinkig square tube because it would be easier to get weld down inside for more weld penetration. IMO mind
Cant you get the shaft from the donor?
I took all my parts and got rebuilt so it would all be "NEW" .I think the booster came with an adjustable rod so there was nothing I had to fab.Just bolt it all in.
I was just thinkig square tube because it would be easier to get weld down inside for more weld penetration. IMO mind
Cant you get the shaft from the donor?
I took all my parts and got rebuilt so it would all be "NEW" .I think the booster came with an adjustable rod so there was nothing I had to fab.Just bolt it all in.
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Hey just an update on what Ive done so far...
I went to tractor supply company and picked up a grade 8 bolt... just a bit larger
than my pushrod... beveled the edges on both the shaft and the bolt that I cut the threaded end to use--gave excellent welding surface... tack welded it all around...
Then came back and but a heavy bead and worked it into the threads of the bolt.
came back and with a 60 grit sanding grinder wheel... knocked it down and filled in any craters ... I bought a threaded adjuster nut kinda like you did david... only I put four holes top and bottom and welded up those holes and Ive yet to weld up the outside of those -- Welder wire is giving me fits... it keeps kinking or something it wont feed wire unless I shake the cable... ive tried to work it out. but no luck yet.
I went with the grade 8 bolt because it is a hardend steel bolt. and its harder than the pushrod. so should be no probs there.
As good as I think this will hold up... I intend on saving my pennies and purchasing a Master Power Brakes master cylinder booster kit. But thats a while away.
I went to tractor supply company and picked up a grade 8 bolt... just a bit larger
than my pushrod... beveled the edges on both the shaft and the bolt that I cut the threaded end to use--gave excellent welding surface... tack welded it all around...
Then came back and but a heavy bead and worked it into the threads of the bolt.
came back and with a 60 grit sanding grinder wheel... knocked it down and filled in any craters ... I bought a threaded adjuster nut kinda like you did david... only I put four holes top and bottom and welded up those holes and Ive yet to weld up the outside of those -- Welder wire is giving me fits... it keeps kinking or something it wont feed wire unless I shake the cable... ive tried to work it out. but no luck yet.
I went with the grade 8 bolt because it is a hardend steel bolt. and its harder than the pushrod. so should be no probs there.
As good as I think this will hold up... I intend on saving my pennies and purchasing a Master Power Brakes master cylinder booster kit. But thats a while away.
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ok so its kinda hard to see but in that last picture there.... you can make out a circular pattern on the nut.. there should be 2... but that is were the holes are that I welded up.
Here is a top picture.
let me know what you think... I know it isnt purty. lol.
but functionality was the name.
It actually did look good underneath that nut... I had the thing so smooth you didnt even know that it was done...
but. figured... the extra welds and stuff would be stronger. and for this part looks dont count. too much.
Here is a top picture.
let me know what you think... I know it isnt purty. lol.
but functionality was the name.
It actually did look good underneath that nut... I had the thing so smooth you didnt even know that it was done...
but. figured... the extra welds and stuff would be stronger. and for this part looks dont count. too much.