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i use the garden hose with a brass nozzle to flush the overflow tank.
start slow, just let it bubble out the fill hole slowly.
after the water clears, give it a full pressure shot until clear.
blow out with air. wear eye protection. if one does not want a bath, use a plastic sheet over top.
messy but quick. warm day only
did it amany a time on rock crawler crick mudders when the only water after a boil over or broken hose was the thinner mud out of the crick.
I recently did this job on my 3.0 L van. I had the brown rusty coolant but no slime / sludge deposits like your photo. I flushed out with Prestone & then repeated with a dynamic flush ( with engine running) via a flushing tee until the water ran clear, then drained the rad & refilled with about 6 L of AFC (green type) & then topped of with distilled water. Test the coolant with a hydrometer after topping off & purging air & doing a test run (cheap at about $4-5).
Problem with the 50/50 is that to use that you also have to drain the block by removing the drain screws, (they are a pain & might round off when you try to remove them) since only about 1/2 of your system is drained via the lower radiator hose. However if you flush & then add 50% of your systems capacity via the radiator, the coolant will be the correct strength & corrosion should stop.
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