Ok, so i finally got off my lazy a** and put my 10k mod back on. almost no difference. went with a 22k. truck would idle at 900 rpms and miss, and shoot black smoke everywhere... fun, but not practical...
so i go to the local radio shack and put in a 10k and a 5.6k. Wow!
almost the same performance and smoke as the 22k, without the jumpiness and it idles smooth at 700 or so! i've found my resistor.
BTW, i'm doing this joe's way. (inline)
so, what i was seeing before:
under wot: 1st and second: max 15-16 psi, EGT's barely touch 900
3rd and od: works up to 18-19, EGT's can inch close to, but cant make it to 1200.
with my 15.6k in:
WOT: 1st and second: max 19psi, hits it alot quicker, EGt's will hit 1100.
3rd and presumably OD (havent tested that fast): max of 22 psi, EGT's will hit 1350 It makes a big difference, so take note if you dont have gauges and especially if you dont have an intake...
Thanks for the Cheap mods guys!

 

glad it worked out for you!

 

Ya, i like your way better. Not knocking the old way, just this way seems more.... controlled.
but, i have noticed that when my truck gets completely warm, idle will raise to 800-850. is there any way to lower this without changing resistance or buying a chip?

 

my truck has about 2" between the "T" and the ICP. is this enough room for the 10k mod? and do i sodder the 5.6 to the 10k or keep putting spade terminals together?

 

With a chip I don't need the 10K/15.6K mod so I have not done it. But from reading about it so much I would think you could solder or use spade terminals. Soldering would be more permanent but using spade lugs would give you the option of swapping values back and forth.

 

That's exactly what mine looked like before i did it. you can tear that tape off and pull the plastic back and end up with about 6" of wire. I used a terminal block, but for adjustabilty i would use crimps (right word???) not solder. maybe solder once you have one you like.

 

ah, that is the pic that didnt send in your pm, put the resistors closest to the icp. and you can solder or use crimps, its your choice, i crimped mine with no issues using spade terminals so i can adjust and change things around

 

anyone know the answer to this? is there some sort of idle adjustment i can make?

 

Howdy men!
I am new to performance work on Powerstrokes. I don't know why because I have been driving a 95 F-350 and also have a 97 F-350 Powerstoke. The 95 is stock I mainly just use it for my farm truck for feeding cattle and all around farm use. The 97 is my baby and have been doing a few upgrades on it. My question about the resistor modification to the ICP is just exactly how does it modify the signal? And to what advantage and or purpose? For extra fuel pressure? I have a Bully Dog 6 position switch in my 97 model. It runs faNTASTIC ON position 3 but you go to number 4 which is the 80 hp over stock and it just won't run for... falls flat on its face and acts as if it is either defueling or just not getting enough fuel.
Any hints? I would really appreciate it. I have not been able to monitor fuel prssure in this condition cause I do not have enough hose for my gauges to reach arounbd the hood for a test drive. I cannot scan the truck cause the only scanner I have is a mickey mouse Actron 9180 and it won't read this truck. Very frustrating.
Thanks for any help.
Larry

 

the falling o nits face sounds like either hpop is weak or lack of fuel pressure/volume. the bd chip is common and i dont hear of any issues with it in that respect. do you get a check enigne light at all? if not it may be fuel related

 

You can but you have to tie into the IVS (idle validation switch) with a relay that will short out "resistor mod" at idle. At idle the RED/ORG wire off the IVS is zero volts and when you press the go peddle the voltage will go to 12 volts. Go to Radio shack and get a 12 volt SPDT relay, small one since there is no current draw involved. Connect the C (common) and NC (normally closed) contacts across the "resistor mod". On the coil of the relay connect one terminal to ground and the other to the RED/ORG IVS wire. When you push on the go peddle the relay is energized and the short is taken off the "resistor mod". Releasing the go peddle and the relay releases and the "resistor mod" is shorted out.

Here is a sample schematic I came up with ..

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...1&d=1223230083

 

I really like that idea Hussler. Do I need to do a ICP mod with the Bully Dog chip?
The only time I have got a check engine light was when the pins on the chip had a bad connection and the truck would not start. I had this problem intermittently for months till I finally sent it in and Bully Dog repaired it. I do not know about codes as I say my scanner won't read this truck. THAT really chaps me cause whe I bought the Mickey Mouse Actron 9180 I was told it would. If any of you could recommend a good scanner I hope to get on elater. I had a Snap On and OTC 4000 years ago. Both were ripped off in Texas. I would like to get a OTC 3499 someday. I guess I should rig me up a hose long enough to monitor fuel pressure while test driving. I do not have gauges in this truck yet. Great forum here men I am finding tons of good info!
Thanks again!

 

get a cheap tire pressure guage and start the truck. on the driver side of the fuel filter canister there is the fuel pressure regulator. now on the fuel pressure regulator you will see a "shrader valve" aka a valve stem lookin' mojig that you can put that tire pressure guage on to check the fuel pressure. you might want to put a rag under the area b/c fuel will leak slightly. check fuel pressure at idle. you don't need to do a 10k mod, but maybe a fuel pressure shim. let us know what the fuel pressure is at idle.

 

Is this sposed to be a joke? a tire gauge? I HAVe checked fuel pressure. 50 lbs. at idle with a fuel pressure gauge

 

tire gauge is no joke, its the poor mans fuel pressure checker...lol since you have access to a gauge you need to hook it up so its visable while driving. run the truck wide open under load and see if it drops off