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Yellow and Red, what a combo
Haven't you ever just said, "Why am I fixing this"?
Earliest factory sliding rear window?
Por 15, solid as steel
Well the yellow is gone
roof work came out good
firewall I'm likin the gloss black
New cab corner
From what I`ve read POR15 is real tuff stuff but it fades badly in direct sunlight (so it`s fine for vehicle frames). It takes a special and fairly expensive primer coating if a top coat is applied over it. You must immediately clean the brushes or paint guns used to apply it, it will harden rock hard!
I prefer Zero rust, it`s possibly some what cheaper at just over $100 a 3.78 litre can, minimal prep work (much like POR15) and if carefully applied some paints can be used over it without any special priming. It`s kind of funny stuff, Zero Rust never completely hardens underneath so it protects the steel surface very well and seems to stick fairly well too.
por15 runs about $120-150/"4L" and zero rust is around 100 bucks. Im not a big fan of zero rust just for the fact that it doesnt harden. Havent tried por15 but the next project i do im trying it. Ive heard lots of good stuff about it and it turns white in direct sunlight after a number of years. Por15 you can spray or brush right over rust and it penetrates and seals it
You are correct, get all the loose stuff off you can and it should be good enough.
I`ve been told that the better the surface is cleaned the better Zero Rust will stick around. If I`m really concerned I sandblast first though I`ve found the Zero Rust isn`t all that fussy, seems to stick ok on frames where it`s too hard to really clean it that well.
One 50 dollar can I did my frame/ floor board and firewall.
If you're really unknowlagable aka Stupid just go to Walkers and tell them what you want to do, they will tell you te proper steps, product, and usage you'll need to know. They are who taught me what to do, so you might as well go see the teacher not the student.