Am trying to troubleshoot my cruise in my 95 F150 5.0. Have looked around for info, but not finding alot so here goes. This is what I know:

1. Had the Ford recall done for the cruise cancel/brake master switch and is complete with new harness and switch (cruise didn't work before either). Still doesn't.
2. Fuse in fuse panel is fine.
3. No known column issues (so don't believe it is the clock spring...oh and horn works fine) and multifunction switch (turn,wipers, etc) is fine.
4. All lights, turn signals, etc working fine in truck and in cab.
5. Steering wheel switches 'feel' fine..lol and show no damage, etc but I get no light on dash, no click, etc when I try them. Not even sure that there is a cruise control 'on' light on these trucks.
6. Speedo works fine...smooth and no issues at all so doubt there is any issue with the speed sensor on the rear diff or PSOM if that relates to the subject at all.

I know that the cruise control module (servo) itself can go bad but I don't know of a good way to test it (isn't really a vacuum servo like old, old stuff) and I just hate to toss parts at something and hope.

Normally don't care about cruise but have a 700 mile round trip coming up and thought it might be nice. Besides, it bugs me that it doesn't work even if I don't use it!

Also, any ideas on what other ones may fit? I have access to Hollander and it shows basically 5.0 and 4.9 truck interchange only as I recall but I know that isn't always 100% accurate on stuff like this.

Any ideas all? I appreciate your thoughts.

Thanks, Mike

 

I had the cruise servo go bad on my beater 95 F-150. I went to Ford and priced one and they are expensive! But the parts guy told me he rarely sold them as they don't go bad often. He said to check the cable as it's common to break.

My cable was fine but I'd check that first.

As for what else would fit...I know a lot of newer Ford vehicles even in the early 00's have a servo that looks almost identical. Whether or not it would work I don't know.

 

I had the recal harness replaced on my truck, but they said that there isn't anything else they will do. You actually have the harness and a new switch?

As for the cruise not working, maybe the fusable link for the recall is bad.

 

Yes, they replaced both. In my case, there was literally brake fluid wet to the touch in the electrical connector on the switch when I disabled the old one and waited forever until after repeated calls by me over a few months they finally had the replacement in stock to perform the warranty work. Guess I am going on the assumption that the new harness (and link) is good.

Since the whole point of the recall (at least the major one) is to replace the switch which can leak brake fluid past a seal and into the electrical portion and cause a fire, I would be very surprised if yours wasn't done. The recall is for a safety issue (since that switch is always 'hot') and not for cruise function so I am not surprised that the dealership told you that is all they will do (but I am sure that they would restore full cruise function...uh, for a fee.)

 

They didn't replace my switch. I stood there while they put the jumper harness on. I asked them to replace the switch, but they wouldn't do it.

I wonder if the reason yours won't work is that your switch / button on the steering wheel is making a bad connection inside. I'm sure its similar to any other switch or button. I have replaced the power window and door lock switches on my truck. One worked intermittently because the contacts inside were burnt and dirty, the other just wouldn't work at all. I just decided to replace all the door lock and window switches. Maybe the switch for your cruise control is just bad or dirty inside.

 

The switch in the recall is an electrical one under the hood towards the driver side fender from the brake cylinder. Not your steering wheel assembly.

If you don't have power to the steering wheel switches it will NOT generate the necessary signal to the controller. No power, right? So, I'd start there and check for electricity. Could be the clock switch has gone bad as well, although you should have a trouble light on the dash for that if it fails. But then the lamp could be burned out. There is no dash light for the cruise control being activated.

If you just want a cruise control, you can add an aftermarket unit from JC Whitney or Sears catalog. Assuming they still carry them. I have installed several in trucks that I bought used over the years that were without the cruise control.

If you want to have the Ford unit work, I'd be tempted to take the truck to an automotive electronics shop. They have seen these issues on other vehicles as well as pickups, and the units' design is pretty generic. I'm thinking an hour to trouble shoot, which is probably the minimum charge anyway.

 

I don't think anyone was suggesting that Ford replaces the steering wheel cruise switches under the recall but rather the one on the master cylinder. As for power to the switches on the wheel...while I am inclined to believe they can go bad, with power to the horn (it honks..) and airbag (light comes on per normal on start up and then off per normal) I don't think it is a column or power issue (ie clock spring). What I am searching for is more along the lines of perhaps a secondary inline fuse, etc that I could be missing or other suggestions. I would rather not have to tear the wheel apart if I am missing something simple.

Thanks for the input and suggestions though. I will keep that in mind as an option. Other thoughts? Anyone? Anyone? Thanks again!

 

No, I mean the switch in the wheel may not be powered. An open under the hub/airbag or in the switch itself. Could be corrosion on the contacts. Maybe some alcohol and or contact cleaner would do the trick. The turn signal switches have a corrosion issue that requires the "brushes" to be cleaned every so often.

I understood the switch under the hood to be replaced as part of the recall, maybe that's just jumpered around and is redundant as a result. IDK, just trying to picture where there could be an open in the circuit and like you grasping at straws. I doubt that Ford would do a fusable link on one circuit. But maybe... Sorry, if I'm not much help. My truck is a 94, and is supposedly wired somewhat differently.

 

Maybe these hints will help.

/

 

Check to see if you have the vacuum dump valve on the brake pedal. That was the cause of my cruse not working. But being a 95 yours may not have it.

Also is there any adjustment for sensitivity of the cruse control? My surges for about 30 seconds to a min before locks in(see it in the vacuum guage and feel truck surging). After it will hold speed unless head winds or rise/dip in road is exsive engough to go back surging.

 

A 95 does not use vacuum at all in the speed control system.

 

Thanks again to all for the input. As Jonas put it I am grasping at straws so willing to listen to all ideas. Bill K...thanks for the chart. I will check resistance at that connector tomorrow night. I can get a used cruise module for cheap (like 30 bucks cheap) from a 100K mile truck that is supposed to be a good part. I still don't like the idea of tossing parts at it even if not grossly expensive so that test should (hopefully) rule out the switches and clockspring first. Any other suggestions anyone?

 

Unplug the connector at the recalled switch on the master cylinder. Using a test light or voltmeter see if one of the wires at the connector is hot. At least this will eliminate the possibility of the fusable link being bad and its easy and free.

 

Not a bad idea and easy enough to check when I check the other connector. Free is good too!!

 

I know more (and less) than I did before. Cheated and put another cruise unit in (no change...no cruise..bad unit?). Got a chance to test a little tonight like I should have before. Have 12V at the connector for the new brake switch. No change when brake pedal is pushed (drops maybe .4 volt..assuming that is just the electrical load of the brake lights being on..verified they are working)...it never goes to 0. Fuseable link fine, but switch? Got 12V at the connector for the cruise amplifier when tested between the 296 circuit (pin 7) and 676 (pin 10) ground. When checking for resistance between 151 (pin 5) and 959 (pin 6) I get nothing, no change when switches are pushed (didn't have time to actually check AT the switches). Checked both in KOEO position and acc position. Horn works and Airbag system appears fine (no flashing light or on after start, etc) so still think clockspring is fine, but? FWIW..the wheel looks great, switches look and feel great and the leather isn't even worn much at all on the wheel. Been into column to replace bushings, etc and all looked fine while in there and nothing hurt/bent/busted, etc while doing it.

Am I testing correctly? Should I be testing between 151 (pin 5) and 676 (pin 10)? There does not appear to be any fuses blown in the dash and the only thing I can see not working right now is my 3rd brakelight (reg brake lights are fine) so I will replace the bulb in the cab just cause it needs it but don't see that this will affect anything, but?

Any input/advice/HELP is appreciated from all.

Thanks, Mike