i am getting 35" pro comp muds for christmas and am goin to install a 2" body lift if they rub. i was wonderin what, other than the actual installation, needs to be done when installing the lift, such as tranny linkage and steering column stuff. i have pretty good machanical knowledge so dont be afraid to get technical i want to know everything included in installing the lift

 

What kind of truck do you have??










1997 F350 PowerStroke,5 Speed, 4X4,36 Inch Buck Shot Mudders, Strait Piped, Chiped, Propane Injected, LUK Clutch, Reverse Shackle Kit

 

i have a 1990 f250 dana 50 frt with 10.25 rear with ls and a 351 with e40d

 

they give you instructions. I would get performance accessories. I put a 3 inch on mine and it may take some time but its nothing too complicated.

 

mooktank thank for the reply, did u install ur b-lift? what i was gettin at was what do they not tell you about doing the lift , tranny linkage and steering and transfer case shifter did u have to modify any of that?

 

You will have to legnthen the transfer case shifter and steering column. The extension for the steering shaft is in the kit, but you will have to weld a piece of steel bar (3" long) to the end of your transfer case shifter so that it doesn't hit the floorboard. Not sure about the tranny linkage, my truck is a 5 speed. You will also have to do some work to get the bumpers to look right, otherwise you will have a 3" gap from the top of the bumper to the bottom of the body, looks kind of dumb. The rear bumper is easy, just take of the bumper, take the two brackets off of the bumper and drill a new hole so that it moves the bumper up 3". That is what I did. The front they will supply you with new brackets (they are 1/4" stamped steel and only have 2 holes), they are not very sturdy. I made new ones out of 1/2" steel plate, drilled three holes the same size and distance apart as the bracket that they supplied. Very strong.

I would also suggest, instead of trying to unbolt the existing body bolts, cut them out with a saw-z-all. Much quicker (and easier) than trying to unbolt them. You are not going to reuse them.

 

I didnt lengthen anything. a little in-cab modifications made everything fit right. Everything works nice. And yes I did it myself.

 

How can you tell if your truck already has a body lift??

 

look under the cab and see if there is a 2-3" gap between the frame and the bottom of the cab. If you do, then you already have a body lift on it.

 

The factory insulators are around an inch. If you see any solid plastic looking or metallic spacers that's a body lift.
One important thing I wanted to share is about the factory steering shaft. My trucks been bodylifted for a number of years now. Although you can force (by really yanking on it) the stock shaft to hook up DON'T DO IT.
The rag-joint section will rip within a couple of months leaving only the saftey cage to steer the truck. This is accompanied by a chintzy clicking sound when you steer. (This is the bottom part of the shaft that has the plastic cover on it- you know, by the sector shaft). Anyway, I went and replaced the shaft with used OEM ones 3 times that first year. Then one day I was working under the hood and had a friend turn the wheel with the motor off. When I say I saw the left side framerail flex that's an understatement. I made a new crossmember out of 1" squaretube right then and there, then I cut a new-used(lol) steering shaft at the solid section, fit a 3" pipe into it with 1/4" grade 8's and also welded it around. I swear that day the whole truck felt different going down the road. I then got back that can't feel the road, steering through a bowl of Jello feedback we all know and love about the TTB frontend.
These are my personal experience/opinions, maybe your truck reacted differently than mine. I will say that my truck gets hammered, and that if you don't abuse yours as hard maybe you'll think this is all crazy.