I went through all my old/spare driveshafts and made these, i'll take them to a shop to have true'd/welded and balanced.........

this view reminds me of days in the Navy working on helicopters...(all driveshaft and gearboxes).

still have to repair the tranny crossmember (was cut to clearance front shaft) make a carrier (pillow block) bearing mount.

can anyone guess why i located the transfer-case so far back?

 

Looks cool. Not sure why you would put it so far back. Are you going to put a second one in at a later time?

 

Wouldn't clear the cab?

 

Your building it for Yau Ming!

 

Looks great...

 

Helps with weight distribution

 

Wow, I don't know why you put it so far back, but the progress in your gallery is amazing.

 

Great work you have some serious skills...love the paint job!

 

that's just about where my case sits on marmon, puts weight farther back, leaves room for auxiliary over/under drive, clears cab floor, changes driveshaft angle, (appears to have clocking block on case). not to question your knowledge, but, why not use 2 inch tube from case to front axle, eliminating pillow block and possibility of shaft flexing and binding? that tube should be at 3-5 degrees, maybe 7 if higher suspension. will shaft bottom out on crossmember with suspension drop? seems the trick would be to put upward hoop on driveshaft side of crossmember for shaft to spin under crossmember? if rear axle was sitting high on one side, and low on other side, would tubes on frame to rear hit frame? sure looks good, hope to get response. pete

 

thanks for the compliments and those are great reasons,
i do plan to mount a PTO driven hydrualic pump next to the center shaft
but i'm almost embarresed to say, i ended up locating so far back mainly so it can be viewed from above when the "dump flat-bed" is up. (I say i'm not building a "show" truck, but i do plan to take to some shows....)

petey,
appears to have clocking block on case
the t-case is made from 3 different ones, I build it years ago for a jeep. that 1" thick alluminum place is part of the adaptor that mated the low-range section of a NP203 to a bronco Dana 20... It has 2 low ranges with a maximum 4.92 to 1 reduction
here's alink to the build.... 2transfercase

why not use 2 inch tube from case to front axle, eliminating pillow block and possibility of shaft flexing and binding? I just think it's too far for a single shaft. I'm thinking i can build the pillow-block mount to control most of the flexing.

I thought about many different frontshaft ideas, but i'm always saving $$$ when i can, and i try to use stuff i already have whenever i can. that had alot to do with these shafts designs. (notice the wide range of tubing diameter) it's hard to tell from this picture, but i do have a pretty steep angle on the front shaft and 99% of the time i'm going to be in 2wd with the locking hubs unlocked. i don't think it will bottom out or max the U-joint at complete droop. i've picked/mounted the front shocks to limit the maximum amount of droop. (also i did this on the rear, as to not rip the airbags.

 

Wow you are the man. I wish i had those skills.

 

i get it. had typo, my tube is 2-1/2 inches and 55 inches long with a 10 to 1 underdrive. slip joint is at front pinion. i don't use uderdrive too often, but use 4wd every winter for last 18 years and still have original u-joints. shaft angle is approximately 5 degrees. i guess that, because i see that u-joint sitting over crossmember, i'm concerned about possible contact. but your right, picture doesn't give proper dimensions and angles. good luck, can't wait to see final result.

 

10 to 1 underdrive.......... are you kidding? i've never heard of that low before......

I measured the angle of the 2 piece front driveshaft, it's 14 degrees . this picture shows it much better, it's much more than i would like and i'd never run a rear shaft that steep. (i'm sure it's will go down acouple degress when i install the engine/cab etc.....) also i built the pillow-block mount to be able to adjust it down some, and there's about 1" of clearance above the tranny crossmember. so as long as it doesn't bind at maximum droop, i'm going to call it acceptable. also i decided to weld all the shafts myself, i can get them with .010" of being true, i'll wait to take them to a shop for balancing after i start to drive it and feel the need (I'm sure the front shafts will with the crazy angles, but thats what locking hubs are for .)

 

you do nice work. as long as you remember angles when in 4wd, you will be ok. at full droop, shaft COULD be at 20-22 degrees. this could cause bind in u-joint and premature slip yoke failure. any firm to severe pressure on shaft from pinion to slip yoke will cause yoke to press up on splines. it will be a problem. i understand you won't be using 4-wd all that much, just discussing options. when rain stops, i will put a couple pics in my gallery showing crossmember and pertinent info that would eliminate pillow block and angle issues. not trying to get you to change, (you did a fine job), just showing another idea that might prevent future headaches. yeah, 10-1, like having a pony motor in driveline. 4th gear, full throttle, maybe 3-4 mph, but pulls like a bear!

 

52-f3, put picture of crossmember in my gallery showing hoop for driveshaft.