I hate my headers.
Thread Starter
|
Street Queen to the extr3m3
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,554
Likes: 3
From: Lubbock, Texas
I hate my headers.
I put some hooker super comp headers on my truck....
95 250 351w
I am currently on my 3rd set up gaskets for the dang things.
The bolts absolutly will not stay tight. Ive tried blue lock tite, ive tried red lock tite. Im so tired of dealing with this crap. One of my biggest pet peeves is exhaust leaks and this things is horrible. I get it all sealed up and it runs nice for a few days then it starts again, i get that side fixed all is good for a few days then the other side starts... Im to the point now that i want to pull the whole motor. and weld that damn headers to the heads. Am i doing something wrong here, or whats the fix... If its just the nature of the beast, then im layin a bead around it, and if that dont fix it, im gunna blow it up. I am so tired of it. Everytime it starts i want to scream and lite my truck on fire.
So can you help me? What am i doing so wrong?
95 250 351w
I am currently on my 3rd set up gaskets for the dang things.
The bolts absolutly will not stay tight. Ive tried blue lock tite, ive tried red lock tite. Im so tired of dealing with this crap. One of my biggest pet peeves is exhaust leaks and this things is horrible. I get it all sealed up and it runs nice for a few days then it starts again, i get that side fixed all is good for a few days then the other side starts... Im to the point now that i want to pull the whole motor. and weld that damn headers to the heads. Am i doing something wrong here, or whats the fix... If its just the nature of the beast, then im layin a bead around it, and if that dont fix it, im gunna blow it up. I am so tired of it. Everytime it starts i want to scream and lite my truck on fire.
So can you help me? What am i doing so wrong?
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 196
Likes: 0
The best thing here would be to get locking header bolts. If you don't go that route I would put the new gaskets in, torque the headers to spec, Heat the engine up then let it cool down, retorque, then drive it a day or two and retorque again. I have done this many times and never had a problem.
here is a link to the bolts.... http://store.summitracing.com/partde...2&autoview=sku
here is a link to the bolts.... http://store.summitracing.com/partde...2&autoview=sku
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 688
Likes: 0
From: right here in michigan
any time i have had an issue like this,it was from insufficient support of the exhaust letting it wiggle around,causing the bolts to loosen.i don't use any fancy bolts and have no gasket issues with the collectors or at the head.how much thread is actually going into the head?
i use victor nitroseal header gaskets and snug them up after getting things warmed up good a couple times.
i use victor nitroseal header gaskets and snug them up after getting things warmed up good a couple times.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,649
Likes: 2
Where did you try wiggling? You need to try in several places. +1 on the gaskets and if need be the locking header bolts. What kind/brand of bolts are you using now? What kind of shape are your motor mounts in?
Trending Topics
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 677
Likes: 0
I have never had luck with them..... I like the fell pro header gaskets, never had issues with them.
You need to look at where the exhaust is secured. Remember the stock system was secured most likely for manifolds, and did not have all the secure points needed for headers.
I like to get a clamp 2 of 2.5 feet from the header collector and then right before or right after the muffler.
Remember trying to shake the system with your hand when it is cold on the driveway is not nearly the same force when rumbling along a rough bumpy road!
You need to look at where the exhaust is secured. Remember the stock system was secured most likely for manifolds, and did not have all the secure points needed for headers.
I like to get a clamp 2 of 2.5 feet from the header collector and then right before or right after the muffler.
Remember trying to shake the system with your hand when it is cold on the driveway is not nearly the same force when rumbling along a rough bumpy road!
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,512
Likes: 8
From: Cook Forest and Irwin PA
keep this in mind - under load - if towing or someting else 'heavy' - the engine is going to move on the mounts. nutting you can do about that.
a firmly grasped exhaust will exacerbate the problem.
shortys into a y pipe actually helps a bit...
try Mg gasket with the steel mesh core.
if that fails, go copper. go 12pt arp bolts or use a stud/nut mounting and torque em up. but 3/8-16 bolts aint gonna take too much to strip out the mush they are in (double pox if the heads are aluminum)
another thing you can do is fix the flange so its not tube to the block (which cut into the gasket) and the header flange is just a mounting plate. how? weld GOOD beads from all tubes to the outside of the flange, then have a machine shop surface the tube end flat with the flange. very flat. do it right and you wont need any gaskets.
a firmly grasped exhaust will exacerbate the problem.
shortys into a y pipe actually helps a bit...
try Mg gasket with the steel mesh core.
if that fails, go copper. go 12pt arp bolts or use a stud/nut mounting and torque em up. but 3/8-16 bolts aint gonna take too much to strip out the mush they are in (double pox if the heads are aluminum)
another thing you can do is fix the flange so its not tube to the block (which cut into the gasket) and the header flange is just a mounting plate. how? weld GOOD beads from all tubes to the outside of the flange, then have a machine shop surface the tube end flat with the flange. very flat. do it right and you wont need any gaskets.
