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Old Aug 30, 2008 | 04:53 PM
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Rear traction bars

What does everyone use, if you run them? I have a good bit of axle wrap with the stacked blocks and I want to attend a pull this coming Friday. I don't want my rear end to look like the guys in the 2008 Diesel Power Challenge.

From what I've found on the web, the prices range from about $110 to $1100.

I have looked into making my own, but time is short and I lack a welder to do the job. Beside that, it would probably be close to the same cost once tubing, rod ends, plate, etc was bought and fabricated.

For about the same $$$ as traction/ladder bars, I could probably get lift springs and eliminate the blocks all together.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2008 | 05:12 PM
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For all my traction needs, about 5000 lbs of steel on the F350 flatbed does wonders....as traction bars go....I would say about any of them will work ok, its basically a lever to the front of the spring to reduce axle windup.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2008 | 05:17 PM
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Why do you have stacked blocks with only a four inch lift??? Or at all?
 
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Old Aug 30, 2008 | 05:18 PM
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There is a set of 5" Deaver/DR lift springs for the rear for $650 over on PSN in the classifieds. I wanna get 4" front springs and the One-up Offroad rear block/bar system. Check it out, it's badass, but the price is a little bit hard to cope with.

One Up Offroad Traction Blocks - 1999-2008 F250/350 & Excursion - Truck Toyz Store

oh, BTW, that guy Ernest that rotated his pumpkin, HAD traction bars. He blew out the welds holding the axle tubes to the center, thus turning the pinion upward. You would need a third link going rearward from the top of the axle housing to the hitch.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2008 | 06:57 PM
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check out the bars Kris posted in action..i dont think you could beat it..
YouTube - Denny Hao Sled Pull - First Place
 
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Old Aug 30, 2008 | 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 4inchlovin
Why do you have stacked blocks with only a four inch lift??? Or at all?

Why? Because after installing the 4" front springs, the rear was sagging big time. Installing the 3" blocks that came with the kit put the truck back to 1" higher in the rear. The front springs gave me 6" of lift over the stockers, which were sagging pretty bad.

At the time I didn't have the extra coin to drop on springs. Now, if that is a better way to go, I'll just pop for some lift springs and eliminate the blocks all together.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2008 | 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by strokin_it7.3
There is a set of 5" Deaver/DR lift springs for the rear for $650 over on PSN in the classifieds. I wanna get 4" front springs and the One-up Offroad rear block/bar system. Check it out, it's badass, but the price is a little bit hard to cope with.

One Up Offroad Traction Blocks - 1999-2008 F250/350 & Excursion - Truck Toyz Store

oh, BTW, that guy Ernest that rotated his pumpkin, HAD traction bars. He blew out the welds holding the axle tubes to the center, thus turning the pinion upward. You would need a third link going rearward from the top of the axle housing to the hitch.

Thanks for the info Kris. Yeah, the price would be a little hard to swallow right now, but as you stated, it's a badass set up.

I didn't realize that Ernest had traction bars, I only quickly glanced at the pic of his yoke pointed to the sky and assumed(you know what that gets a guy) there were no traction bars there. After looking at the pics again, I see that everything else is intact and the centrer section is rotated. OUCH!!
 
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Old Aug 30, 2008 | 08:46 PM
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You can get OUO traction bars.....w/o the blocks.

The traction bars with a weld on axle mount, a fixed length bar and w/o the gusset on the bar is approx $599


Even the traction blocks (say a 5") with the fixed bar, non gussetted is $923 or so.


We don't have them on the webstore yet, but let me know if you need any other info on them.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2008 | 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by strokin_it7.3
oh, BTW, that guy Ernest that rotated his pumpkin, HAD traction bars. He blew out the welds holding the axle tubes to the center, thus turning the pinion upward. You would need a third link going rearward from the top of the axle housing to the hitch.
The other thing to stop that, is to weld the axle tubes to the pumpkin housing, which IIRC requires using nickel welding rods, because the center section is cast iron. Most people use the regular 6011 or 7018 rods, which can leave a nice bead, but then crack. Youd need a nickel rod to weld to it, and there should be some pre and post heating, to insure weld quality.
 
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