Locking Differential Thread
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,564
Likes: 11
From: Wayyy NoCal, USA
You're doing the right thing - ask lots of questions and consider the answers and how they would apply to YOUR situation.
My recommendation for your situation is a good LS in the rear (like the True Trac) and a selectable locker in the front.
The on road performance will be about the same as you have now, with none of the "negatives" of a locker on the street. And your off-road capabilities will be only marginally reduced from full lockers front and rear.
My recommendation for your situation is a good LS in the rear (like the True Trac) and a selectable locker in the front.
The on road performance will be about the same as you have now, with none of the "negatives" of a locker on the street. And your off-road capabilities will be only marginally reduced from full lockers front and rear.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,007
Likes: 4
From: Central Florida
This is one of those things where if you have to ask, you better enlist help. You have to reset the ring gear, which is easier than setting up the pinion, but still not for the less experienced. Not that I judging, I will not do it myself yet.
Theoretically you can unbolt the old carrier and remove the ring gear. Then start with the same shims and check the pattern once it's together. Then adjust the shims until you get it right. However I'd be worried I'd have it in pieces and not have enough or the right shims. Or if it howled when finished I'd have to keep working on it until I decided to pay someone to do it right.
Theoretically you can unbolt the old carrier and remove the ring gear. Then start with the same shims and check the pattern once it's together. Then adjust the shims until you get it right. However I'd be worried I'd have it in pieces and not have enough or the right shims. Or if it howled when finished I'd have to keep working on it until I decided to pay someone to do it right.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
From: Fayetteville, AR
(So, if I start a thread about lockers and then proceed to talk about LS, does that mean I have hijacked my own thread? )
I'm concerned about a locking front diff combined with my ESOF, which has already had maintenance issues at 45k miles. Wouldn't I be well advised to swap out the vacuum hubs with manual ones?
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,564
Likes: 11
From: Wayyy NoCal, USA
Good questions, Mark. And you started the thread so you can re-direct it anyway you want!
On the hubs, I think it can be argued whether a locked diff or open diff is harder on a hub. The two usual hub failure (thinking breaking/exploding hubs here, not malfunctioning valves or switches) modes I've seen are:
1) Grunting up a hard obstacle, no tire spinning, just too much torque for hub to handle.
2) Shock load causing it to scatter. Like tire spinning wildly and then suddenly grabbing traction.
Mode 1 seems more common on vehicles with lockers.
Mode 2 seems more common on opens.
So I don't know if going to locker will put your auto hubs at more or less risk. When do the Ford hubs usually explode?
Personally, I don't mind manual hubs. Any vehicle with automatics get converted to a nice heavy duty, easily field servicable manual hub. And I carry a spare.
On the hubs, I think it can be argued whether a locked diff or open diff is harder on a hub. The two usual hub failure (thinking breaking/exploding hubs here, not malfunctioning valves or switches) modes I've seen are:
1) Grunting up a hard obstacle, no tire spinning, just too much torque for hub to handle.
2) Shock load causing it to scatter. Like tire spinning wildly and then suddenly grabbing traction.
Mode 1 seems more common on vehicles with lockers.
Mode 2 seems more common on opens.
So I don't know if going to locker will put your auto hubs at more or less risk. When do the Ford hubs usually explode?
Personally, I don't mind manual hubs. Any vehicle with automatics get converted to a nice heavy duty, easily field servicable manual hub. And I carry a spare.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,881
Likes: 84
From: Wake Forest, NC
I hate to say it, but if you are doing that kind of wheeling you'll want to upgrade to an aftermarket manual hub. The factory esof hubs are too weak for serious wheeling. I love them when they work, but even I would change them out if I put a locker in the front and planned on doing something that required it. I've had these things apart and they are adequate at best for street driving.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2006
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If the concern is whether or not the lockouts will be durable enough, and you are considering an upgrade in lockouts, then you need to go a step further, and upgrade the outer stub shafts.
If your wheeling is extreme enough to warrant a locker, then the 30 spline stub shafts are not going to cut the mustard.
These small stub shafts are "weak" little things, and buying a set of decent lockouts is only going to amplify the weak link. This failure usually takes out a hub, and lockout, which requires you to buy a new one again anyway. It becomes a vicious cycle, and to prevent it,,,,35 spline shafts and lockouts should go in right away.
If your wheeling is extreme enough to warrant a locker, then the 30 spline stub shafts are not going to cut the mustard.
These small stub shafts are "weak" little things, and buying a set of decent lockouts is only going to amplify the weak link. This failure usually takes out a hub, and lockout, which requires you to buy a new one again anyway. It becomes a vicious cycle, and to prevent it,,,,35 spline shafts and lockouts should go in right away.
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 331
Likes: 3
From: St. Louis, MO
I will go with ARBs front and rear as they are tough enough to hold up to the abuse of sled pulling and drag racing. The factory limited slip is junk. A Detroit Locker would be my second choice. The EZ-Locker is not durable enough for the torque of a modified diesel. WARN hubs are nice but don't your vacuum operated hubs also have a manual **** you can turn if they fail? I've always been told that if you plan to stay locked for an extended length of time that you're supposed to also lock them in by hand anyway.
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