Hi everyone
Ok heres the scoop i put a new mini high torque starter on because it sounded like my old starter was tearing something up i took it all apart and no marks on the teeth and no rubbing anywhere so now im going to look and see if i can see between the spacer and tranny to see if its rubbing in there
but i bought a new high torque starter and alls it does it click and every thing is brand new from selinoide to wires and its wired up just like instructions say
but you know what takes the cake is this truck is 100 % new everything its taken 3 years to do it right and thats how old the starter is too and summit says even though you've never used it it doesnt matter so im out 259.00
oh so much for the limited lifetime warranty but i didn't want to put the junk from the other places but any how why would this starter just click and not start because everything is new so i put a starter from one of the other places and changed one wire like there there suppose to have and it starts right up but sounds like its tearing everything up for a few seconds then stops the bendinks are ok their not staying engaged and its the right starter its for a automatic not manual some one give me some ideas thanks everyone

 

is your battery fully charged?

 

Does it sound like the old improperly shimmed chevy starters?
You probably know this-but Fords don't use shims, but a complete spacer plate-which it sounds like you have.
Check the engine, spacer and trans to make sure it is bolted together proper, and not crooked for some reason.
Examine starter and ring gear wear-even tho they are new-it might show something.
Count the starter teeth, make sure it has the correct amount of teeth and pitch.
Did the engine mate up to the trans nicely? Perhaps the torque converter isn't fully keyed in.(which is bad and can cause damage)
Depending on what engine you have, there are different tooth counts for the flexplate.
Perhaps try a stock type starter to see if it grinds? If you have one laying around.
Hope this helps, good luck!

 

It doesn't sound like you have it hooked up correctly. Many of the high-torque mini-starters are a PMGR starter-mounted-solenoid type. Is your solenoid on the starter? If this is the case, significant changes to the starter circuit are necessary. Post back the kind of starter you are using and I'll tell you how to wire it.

 

First off the battery is new and is fully charged and the setup thats in it now was in it before i pulled it apart to restore it , and the starter that sounds like its tearing everything up is the starter that was on it before and never ever made a sound , and the spacer plate is in there just like before its the original one for the truck im the second owner onlt 40,107 miles on it, and im useing the sum-820048 starter summit told me to leave the solenid hooked up but take the hot wire that gets power when you turn the key over and that one goes to the starter solenoid i did it and alls it does is click, and i had it all apart nothing is marked up nothing is scarred up the torque converter is locked up no problem hope this helps

thanks john

 

So you did the following (aftermarket starter mounted solenoid PMGR type starters only):

- Move the original heavy-gauge starter cable from the hot-in-start post of the solenoid, to the hot-at-all-times post of the solenoid.
- Connect the original heavy-gauge starter cable to the new starter (large post).
- Connect the smaller wire from the hot-in-start post of the solenoid, to small post on the starter.
- Leave the smaller 'S' and 'I' posts on the original solenoid untouched.

For reference: The hot-at-all times post of the solenoid is the heavy lug that the battery connects to. The hot-in-start post is the other heavy lug on the opposite side.

What I just described is how this special type of starter is supposed to be wired. Is this what you have?

Some people with PMGR starters leave the original wiring intact and install a jumper wire on the solenoid down below, but because of the back-EMF of the starter motor windings, this can keep the starter engaged after you let off the key. I don't suspect you are making this particular mistake, but I'm listing it here as a side note for other people that may look at this post.

By the way, since you're using a hot-at-all times cable by the frame, make sure the negative battery cable is disconnected while you work. And make sure that the starter cable can not melt against your exhaust especially when you have a PMGR starter (been there, done that). These kinds of starters are tricky and the wiring is dangerous in my opinion. Unless you need this special kind of starter for header clearance or because of extremely high compression, it's not worth the trouble and a waste of money.

 

I would have to disagree FMC400, it was one of the best thing's I have ever installed on my truck. The orignal style ford starters are very lackluster, and they suck WAAAAYYY too many amps at startup. These new starters use less amperage, and turn the motor faster while starting.

I have no issues whatsoever with mine, while the old ford starter would barely turn the motor over when it was hot ( 9.3cr 400m )

Maybe there is something wrong with the summit starters? I used one from a 93 E-350 w/ 460 motor, and haven't had any issues.

I would try going to your local parts house and buying one there. I really think it's the summit starter.

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...pe=123&PTSet=A

And its almost half the price, with a lifetime warranty.

 

Thanks for that link! I didn't say that they don't do an excellent job of turning the motor over, while drawing less current. I run one myself, on my '79. It was the only starter I could find that would clear my headers. I said, that because of the dangers in how they must be wired, and because of the very high cost, my opinion is that they are not worth the trouble unless they are needed for high compression or header clearance. How much trouble one is willing to go through for a certain gain varies from person to person. If the added power is worth the price difference between a PMGR starter and the stock starter for you, by all means do it. I do agree with you on the Advance Auto starter - it is indeed the Summit starter. As far as I know, the same company in Asia makes them all, and different distributors buy them, and sell them for their own price. Ford Racing starters don't have a warranty at all!

 

wow, i had no idea they were all remann'ed in asia. Go figure.

Yeah, they are great starters, and totally worth it.

I think thats the route he should go, because Advance warrants them for life, so you buy one, and all the next ones are free.

 

Just to make sure, I'd put a breaker bar on the dampner bolt and make sure the motor is turning free.

 

make sure its all the way in towrds the motor i have a 460 that was making that sound and i pushed it in and it went away

 

I've had the motor pulled back apart and nothing is wrong with the motor -tranny combo it was just redone and it turns over easy with no obstructions
but i put the old starter on it and it sounds like something is getting torn up but once again i took it apart and nothing is messed up or marked up and
the convertor is in all the way i will have time this weekend to figure this thing out thanks for all of the help

 

Did you read my post about the wiring? If you can swap a PMGR starter and a conventional starter back and forth with no wiring changes, something is wrong.

 

I seen your post the only wire that was to be moved was the wire that gets fire when you turn the key over and that was moved to the starter solenoid
thats what summits website said and thats what partsamericia website even showed how to wire it i'm going out right now and try your wire swap i'l let you know what turns up thanks again

 

Ok i found two problems the first one is that junk a** starter from summit i took it apart and the brushes are glazed over like someone else had it before me and it must of been cranked on for a long time for that to happen because it never even attempted to turn the motor over it just clicked and i told summit that and they checked the numbers and that starter was a newer lot number they said someone there did the switch so they gave me a credit thats cool and now the loud noises the old starter was making was the welds on the flex plate were cracked all on the stater side to what i get from that when the starter engages it starts the motor and starts making the flexplate flexes into the bell because at the top of the bell were scratches so i put a new 28.5 oz flexplate on it and it runs like new so after two years i went and got tags for it and me and my youngest son just got home from crusing we got so many complements at the A&W thanks to everyone for all of your help