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continuesly fuse #30 blown

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Old Aug 25, 2008 | 01:15 PM
  #1  
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continuesly fuse #30 blown

Good afternoon All,

Sorry if my post may be duplicated, i didnt notice where i posted last time. Mods can you delete the other posts, thanks!

ok here it goes:

I am driving on the expy 97 4x4 5.4L and boom shuts off. Fuse #30 on emergency block underneath steering wheel keeps popping off.

On the owners manual states it controls: IGNITION COILS; PCM RELAY; PATS MODULE and RADIO CAPACITORS.

Any ideas? What should i be looking for?

What can trigger such guys?

Thanks!
 
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Old Aug 25, 2008 | 02:10 PM
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How about a shorted ignition coil for one, or one of the capacitors could've went bad. I'd look into those before the relay or PATS.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2008 | 02:27 PM
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I would start by looking at the radio interference capacitors. If those are fine then I would start unplugging coil packs until the fuse quits popping.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2008 | 04:24 PM
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I will 3rd the capacitors as I have seen many shorted caps in other equipment that I service
 
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Old Aug 25, 2008 | 06:50 PM
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I'll pile on.....

Steve
 
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Old Aug 25, 2008 | 07:58 PM
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re:

Ok guys....

i see many of you mentioning capacitors.......

where are they located? I know where the COP's are for sure but not the capacitors or even the radio capacitors ...

anyone got a pic of em or where they are located?

Thanks again!
 
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 07:22 AM
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The RFI caps are small, black "boxes". Single electrical lead, bolted directly to each head or side of the intake. There is one on each bank of a COP-equipped V8.

Just unplug them and see if your short circuit goes away.

Steve
 
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 08:22 AM
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Update!

Ok guys, yesterday night i unplugged the radio capacitors as advised, so far the fuse did not pop :-).........lets see how long it lasts

ok going to next issue...................................

I am getting now codes:

- P0174 & P0171 "System too lean on bank 1 and system too lean on bank 2"

-The engine shakes a bit and is missing.

Things i've done to attempt to correct issue:

1. change MAF SENSOR

2. CHANGE 8 SPARK PLUGS AND INSPECT EACH COP PHYSICALLY (not with meter as dont know how)

3. New Catalytic converters were installed in the back (both back one's)

4.Oil Change & Fuel injector cleaner on tank was applied

****At this point i am out of guesses.....*****

Anything else i should try? Yes Service Engine light is on!
 
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 12:41 PM
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C'mon, you've been around here long enough to see how frequently that code pair comes up and how common it is.....

To illustrate, put both DTCs into the SEARCH engine....

Steve
 
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 01:10 PM
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Sounds like a vac. leak, possibly PVC tubing or elbow in back of intake
 
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 01:31 PM
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Re:

Project i know how dumb my questions may get but infact i did research and the things advised are the one's i've already tried.

checked:

PCV elbow behind intake and is fine (brand new actually)

PCV tubbings around left / right are fine

i am thinking my next step could be a bad O2 sensor... or TP SENSOR

I am going to check with my ohmeter.

Thanks for all the help guys really, thanks for taking your time to help ....
 
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 08:11 PM
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so you can check the caps with an ohm meter, resistance should start out low and increase as it charges to infinite, but if shorted will stay at low resistance or 0 ohms
 
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 10:34 PM
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Update #2:

While checking for VAC's / hoses, found a broken house.

This house is connected to something around the front differential tiny hose, and there was 2 in total, i put tape for now...

The fix did not change rough iddle at all.

I also sprayed intake cleaner all around houses to check for vac leaks and nothing ...truck did not accelerate or anything....

Now while thinking of issues i encountered:

when muffler was off, i was getting no codes.....

all of the sudden when i get a new cat and all welded i get codes....

leads me to belief as truck had been sitting without cats working for a while and muffler cut, the 2 O2 sensors in each side on rear are bad......

DUMB QUESTION LOL

I do have a voltimeter , however it's got so many freaking things i dont know how to set it to test for ohms........

ANyone got an illustration or can guide me? sorry folks my methods have always been the screw driver test light.....

Thanks again!
 
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Old Aug 27, 2008 | 07:00 PM
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house broken?? not sure I can help with that.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2008 | 04:51 PM
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was just messing around the last post, Ohms is omega sign Ω from the greek alphabet, so if you select Ω ( ohms or resistance ) connect your meter leads to meter an touch together should go to 0 ohms, take apart should go to infinite or out for range ( no connection), now must be careful when checking ohms that no voltage is present or you will toast you meter ( of blow fuse in meter ). Hope this helps
 
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