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I have a 92 bronco with a 351 and have not drove it more than 100 miles in the last three years. It felt like it was losing power so I did a complete exhaust swap, bassani shortys, bassani y pipe,high flow cat, muffler and tail pipe. I made sure it had a complete tune up and still no power. I took it to get inspected and I kind of knew it was a waist of time. They told me it could not even generate enough of power on the dyno to complete the inspection. he said it could be the timing, but I have already tried to move the distributor once before and it is frozen so now I am soaking it with aero kroil every day hoping it will brake free. This truck has only 104,000 original miles which is not that much. Do you think that it is most likely the timing or is there any other solutions you can give me. I thank you for all your input.
Drain the gas, add Heet, and IsoHeet to the next tank then. StaBil with each fillup. Change fuel filter. If that does not fix it...
Have you pulled the codes? Is it running rich? Is the exhaust pipe black? Hopefully the tune up included Motorcraft copper plugs. You are on the right track with timing adjustment. Pull the spout and check the timing after warm up. The thin piece of metal for the timing pointer is not exactly space shuttle quality so mine shows 11 to 12 degress btdc to make the engine happy. Unless it has not had regular oil changes you milage is too low for a timing chain set replacement. Mine really is running great after the correct ICM and replacing ACT, ECT, IEC and TPS which all were a little off specs but added up to make a huge difference. See Ford Fuel Injection for details.
Last edited by b4hntn; Aug 24, 2008 at 05:14 PM.
Reason: Addition
I have never pulled the codes on this truck, I bought it in 95 with 59,000 and now it's 2008 and it has 104,000 thats not alot of driving just a lot of sitting. This is the third gas tank because they were rotting out. About 3 or 4 years ago when I was still driving it a little more I changed the fuel filter because it was losing power, but it did not make a difference.
timing could be a huge factor, same with the fuel filter based on the time the gas has been sitting in the tank. please give us more detail on your tune up? what plugs,wires did you install and you did replace the cap and rotor right. when you set the timing be sure to pull the spout connector. to pull codes go to Ford Fuel Injection there are directions on how using a paper clip. that site will also show how to properly route your plug wires so they dont cause power loss issues. What size tires does this bronco have?
The aluminum casing of the distributor and the cast iron block of the engine is very synonomous with getting frozen in the block if not moved regularly, i.e. monthly and if you are moving it monthly you are either racing it or have severe engine problems. There are various ways to remove it some with light heat, some with using a wrench to get a better grip, others with taking the oil pan off and beating on it from the bottom until it gives. I would check to make sure it is correctly set; Too much advance is as bad as too much retardation, a whole lot of going everywhere very slowly.
timing could be a huge factor, same with the fuel filter based on the time the gas has been sitting in the tank. please give us more detail on your tune up? what plugs,wires did you install and you did replace the cap and rotor right. when you set the timing be sure to pull the spout connector. to pull codes go to Ford Fuel Injection there are directions on how using a paper clip. that site will also show how to properly route your plug wires so they dont cause power loss issues. What size tires does this bronco have?
I had new autolite plugs than I tried bosch platinum plugs. I tried 2 sets of 8mm wires and replaced the cap and rotor, but still no power. I have 33 inch tires since I got it in 95. There is something definitely wrong.
Second the compression check, also is it using oil or other engine lubricants/coolants? And the condition of the plugs when pulled out of the block, if they are black then you are not burning the fuel right, white and they are overheating, golden brown is the right color.
put some autolites or motorcraft copper plugs back in and set the timing to 12* btdc with spout connector removed?
are you still running the stock cat converter?
33's with stock gears isnt helping either.
and replace the fuel filter
I would suggest that you get a new short block, or just have a totally rebuilt engine installed.
I think that's the worst advice I've ever read. You don't even know what's wrong with it, and you advice is to drop $1500 on a new motor. Nice.
You say the distributor is stuck, which is fine. It means it hasn't been moved in a long time. What is the timing set at now? You will have to crawl under it and find the timing marks on the balancer. Clean it off with a wire brush and mark 10* BTDC with a piece of white-out tape. Then check your timing. If it's set right, there's no sense in spending a lot of time breaking it loose. BTW, the distributor is set in the lower intake, which is aluminum, not cast iron.
I would also pull the codes and see what the computer thinks is wrong. Letting it sit for so long is also not helping it. If you want to get it running decent again, try to drive it once a week.
put some autolites or motorcraft copper plugs back in and set the timing to 12* btdc with spout connector removed?
are you still running the stock cat converter?
33's with stock gears isnt helping either.
and replace the fuel filter
These trucks do not like platinum plugs. I second the plug suggestion.
Check that the timing is set to 10*, not 12* though.
andyn- The block is cast iron on 5.0s and 5.8 and the dist does not pass through the intake- it goes into the block.My 68 1/2 428 cj mustang dist does go through intake,FE family engine.Windsors and Clevelands and 335 family(429-460) all dist go into block. Back to issue- we only tune with motorcraft plugs because thats what they came with, keep soaking around dist base- but he can check timing now.Replace 3 fuel tanks?????? new or used???? fuel lines have got to be nasty also--- Low fuel pressure will cause similar prob(Fuel pump etc)- like stopped up cat.A new engine( I hope a joke suggestion) would prob run just as bad unless dist IS culpret. LOL Blue
andyn- The block is cast iron on 5.0s and 5.8 and the dist does not pass through the intake- it goes into the block.My 68 1/2 428 cj mustang dist does go through intake,FE family engine.Windsors and Clevelands and 335 family(429-460) all dist go into block. Back to issue- we only tune with motorcraft plugs because thats what they came with, keep soaking around dist base- but he can check timing now.Replace 3 fuel tanks?????? new or used???? fuel lines have got to be nasty also--- Low fuel pressure will cause similar prob(Fuel pump etc)- like stopped up cat.A new engine( I hope a joke suggestion) would prob run just as bad unless dist IS culpret. LOL Blue
I replaced with brand new tanks, water was getting trapped between the steel tank holder so it was rotting it out fast. I drilled more holes in the tank holder and painted the tank and holder well, hope this does the trick. this is the second fuel pump. If you read my original post I have brand new bassani all the way. I have been soaking the distributor every day but still nothing. This weekend I am going to check the timing. Thanks.