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Old Aug 30, 2008 | 07:26 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Kemicalburns
put some autolites or motorcraft copper plugs back in and set the timing to 12* btdc with spout connector removed?
are you still running the stock cat converter?
33's with stock gears isnt helping either.
and replace the fuel filter
Brand new bassani shortys, y-pipe. high flow cat and tail pipe.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2008 | 08:40 AM
  #17  
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From: cape may county NJ
Have you tryed to get a pair of channel locks(water pump pliers) close to the base or a small pipe wrench and tap on it lightly to see if you can get the distributor to move,if it is that stuck I would get a replacement lined up and do what ever it takes to get it to move because at some point in time you are going to have to move it even if your timming is set right now.

FWIW my 93 EB 351 with very low mileage set to factory specs and in tune with the 31's and 3:55 gears and a shift kit seems under powered also but it is all stock.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2008 | 10:32 AM
  #18  
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Pulled codes yet? First step we are waiting for.

Thinking about the tuneup, plug wires may be cross firing.
On the 351 #6 fires followed immediately by #5. The wires may be adjacent in the loom on the drivers side valve cover like 5,6,7,8. Mine are 5,7,8,6. The wires for 5 and 6 are routed at least an inch from each other. I like Motorcraft copper plugs.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2008 | 01:24 PM
  #19  
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I think the two people i would agree with most are the "pull the codes" and the "What is your timing set at now". Everybody is assuming his timing is off right now. why go through all that work if his timing is on? it takes ten minutes to check his timing. same with pulling codes. he could save alot of time by doing basic prelims.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2008 | 02:01 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by GlennFordx4
Have you tryed to get a pair of channel locks(water pump pliers) close to the base or a small pipe wrench and tap on it lightly to see if you can get the distributor to move,if it is that stuck I would get a replacement lined up and do what ever it takes to get it to move because at some point in time you are going to have to move it even if your timming is set right now.

FWIW my 93 EB 351 with very low mileage set to factory specs and in tune with the 31's and 3:55 gears and a shift kit seems under powered also but it is all stock.
I tried moving it with channel locks and it broke one of the lobes off at the bottom of the distributor. Everyone says to pull the codes, don't I have to bring it to a shop to do that?
 
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Old Aug 30, 2008 | 02:03 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by b4hntn
Pulled codes yet? First step we are waiting for.

Thinking about the tuneup, plug wires may be cross firing.
On the 351 #6 fires followed immediately by #5. The wires may be adjacent in the loom on the drivers side valve cover like 5,6,7,8. Mine are 5,7,8,6. The wires for 5 and 6 are routed at least an inch from each other. I like Motorcraft copper plugs.
The last set of wires that were on there were arcing so I moved them around to stop the problem.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2008 | 06:09 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by andym
I think that's the worst advice I've ever read. You don't even know what's wrong with it, and you advice is to drop $1500 on a new motor. Nice.
Thanks I try to be nice.

Now he did say that he had a complete tune up done. If a complete tune up was done properly and no problems were found and the poster still is complaining of no power then I think that the proper solution is a new motor.

I would suggest he spend 5000 on one.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2008 | 07:05 PM
  #23  
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you prabably could do that if youve got more money than brains.i dont have that problem myself
 
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Old Aug 30, 2008 | 07:22 PM
  #24  
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A new engine would look good connected to those Bassani pipes
 
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Old Aug 30, 2008 | 07:46 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by g_k50
A new engine would look good connected to those Bassani pipes
A new motor looks good in anything but if is shot with 104,000 miles than ford sucks! I have confidence that it is something simple because I'm tiered of dumping $ into it.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2008 | 07:55 PM
  #26  
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Did you have the compression checked when the tune up was done?

What else was done during the tune up? Spark plugs changed? Spark plug wires? Fuel injection pressure checked? Timing Checked? Vacum leaks?
 
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Old Aug 31, 2008 | 06:50 AM
  #27  
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From: cape may county NJ
Originally Posted by brian777
I tried moving it with channel locks and it broke one of the lobes off at the bottom of the distributor. Everyone says to pull the codes, don't I have to bring it to a shop to do that?


You can go to a auto parts store like Auto Zone or Advance and they can do it or you can get a cheap code reader so you have one or you can use the paper clip method. I do agree with those that said you need to check for codes and see where your timing is at right now.
Sounds like the dizzy is really in there,so I would do everything else you have been instructed to do and if you need to reset your timing you are going to have to do something to get that dizzy to move. Maybe dynamite
 
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Old Aug 31, 2008 | 01:46 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by GlennFordx4

You can go to a auto parts store like Auto Zone or Advance and they can do it or you can get a cheap code reader so you have one or you can use the paper clip method. I do agree with those that said you need to check for codes and see where your timing is at right now.
Sounds like the dizzy is really in there,so I would do everything else you have been instructed to do and if you need to reset your timing you are going to have to do something to get that dizzy to move. Maybe dynamite
I put in copper plugs today and checked the timing, it was right on 10 degrees btdc. I took it for a ride and no power of coarse. I guess I will have to get the codes pulled. you can hear the engine struggling to produce power when you drive it. It's hard to explain but it makes that whooooooing noise like if your cat was getting clogged. But all exhaust is brand new. Thanks.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2008 | 07:52 PM
  #29  
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A volt-ohm meter and a paper clip is all you would need to read the codes yourself. I prefer an analog meter, you can see the sweep for each digit. Does your rig have a MAP sensor? If it does, disconnect it and see what happens.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2008 | 07:58 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by NWBronco
A volt-ohm meter and a paper clip is all you would need to read the codes yourself. I prefer an analog meter, you can see the sweep for each digit. Does your rig have a MAP sensor? If it does, disconnect it and see what happens.
I never heard of a map sensor before, I don't think a 92 bronco has one.
 
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