[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 06-Sep-01 AT 10:50 AM (EST)[/font][p][font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 06-Sep-01 AT 10:21 AM (EST)[/font]

I have a 1959 Ford which has an alternator installed. I need to verify that it is installed correctly.

It is a two wire alternator:

1 wire goes from the alternator to a small black box (??).
1 primary wire goes to the starter selonoid.
1 wire goes from the small black box to the coil.
1 wire goes from the coil to a balast resistor then the distributor.

Is this installation correct?

Secondly, How and what type of gage do I install to get the required reading at the dash to make sure every thing is working correctly? Amp, Volt or whatever.

Thirdly, is there a way to check the coil for proper operation when it is removed?

And Finally, does the wire from the black box affect the spark from the coil? If it does, please explain so I can troubleshoot my no spark problem.

 

Pretty confusing. The alternator should have at least 3 wires coming from it if it is a typical Ford unit. Should be a BAT, FLD, and GND wire as a minimum. With dash light warning light systems, a STA wire is also used. Can you identify any of those wires at the alternator ?? Do you have an external regulator or does it seem like an internal regulator type ??

From a $$ standpoint, I think an external regulator unit is the way to go. About $30 for an alternator and $10 for a regulator. The one wire and internal regulator type alternators are $85 plus and are normally completly replaced if either the alternator or internal reg go out.

Your wiring sounds like a kluge job by a PO. Recommend installation of an aftermarket ammeter. Easy to install and simplifies the alternator wiring in.

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 07-Sep-01 AT 10:16 AM (EST)[/font][p]I will take a close look at the Alternator today. It does only have two wires as I explained.

I am assuming that it has an external relay which I refer to as a black box. There are no markings but it is 1 1/2" X 3" and about 1-1 1/2 high. It is two poles as I explained.

As far as the alternator, it kinda looks like a donut. I am not sure which kind of car it came off. I am sure about how it is wired. It was working but now I have a spark problem.

That is why I am trying to understand how it is wired and the need for the Ballast Resister between the coil and the distributor.

I will get back to you with more information if I can find more details from the components.

 

I pulled the alternator and this is what I found:

There are four possible leads: Batt, Gnd, FLd, and a 2nd Fld.

The layout is as follows looking from the rear:

Top (1) FLD

Left (2) GND Right (3) FLD

Bottom (4) BATT


How Hooked up: (1) is hooked up to the relay.
(2) is not hooked up
(3) is not hooked up. The connector is gone.
(4) is hooked up to the Battery side of the
starter Selonoid.

Type of alternator (Unknown) Identifying Marks

Casting Marks: 209-5191 with a 2 underneath
8173 Underneath a <> with unreadable
name

Other Marks: (The best I can Make out)
Hand Stamped: 70191-2693

I looked in one of my Chiltons Manuals (Auto Repair Manual 1972-1979. The diagram I found for alternators through 1974 kind of resembles the Monaco, Fury, Chrysler and Imperial. At least it is close and it shows an Electronic Voltage Regulator. I may be way out in left field however.

Now, I need to know the correct wiring. As I mentioned earlier, there is another wire from the opposite side of the relay that is hooked up (spliced) to the positive side of the coil. From the negative side of the coil there is a wire going to a Ballast Resister. From the Ballast Resister, it goes to the distributor.

If you can identify the alternator, it would certainly be appreciated also. To get it tested, I may need the application. In this regard, if you send me your E-Mail Address, I can send you a picture of the alternator. I have a digital camera which makes it very easy.

Any assistance would certainly be appreciated.

Please note: There is no gage. The truck still has the original battery light. If you can explain the proper wiring it would be exceptional. If you can tell me how to wire in a gage also, it would be without words.

Please respond as soon as possible. I am redoing the harness and I would like to integrate the necessary wires in the process.

 

Problem solved.

The book "How to wire your streetrod from start to finish" is one of the best 6 dollar investments I ever made.

If you don't have one, I would highly recommend it.

Thanks for your help.

 

Mike,
I am reasonably sure you have a Mopar charging system. The relay box you mention is the Mopar style single-relay regulator. One side of the regulator is the ignition (IGN) connection which goes to the ignition switch (hot when ignition is on)and the field (FLD) connection is on the other side and goes to the FLD connection on the alternator. This would explain why the wire going to the regulator IGN is spliced and than goes on to the + coil terminal. Would have expected the ballast resistor to be between the regulator-to-coil wire rather than the distributor-to-coil wire. Can't explain that but I would try and change it to see what happens. The ballast resistor is supposed to step down the coil voltage to save the coil and points.

Don't know why there are two FLD terminals on the alternator. Since the system is working it seems the one not used may be the equivelent of a STA on a Ford unit. It is probably connected to the juncture of the three field coils in the alternator. It is probably used with a warning light system but can't be sure. Don't think it is needed for your application.

I think you are wired in correctly for the Mopar system. Putting in an aftermarket ammeter is a no brainer. On the starter solenoid battery side terminal, remove every wire except the heavy battery cable. Then just wire the ammeter between all the removed wires and the solenoid terminal using about 10 GA wire. Turn on the lights with the engine off and note which way the ammeter needle goes. Should go to the left "discharge" side. If it goes positive just reverse the wires on the ammeter. Of course, with the engine running the needle should show a charge.

I'll see if I can find any more info on your alternator.
Hope this keeps you going for a while. Let me know how it works out.

Ed