Wiper Motor
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Republic of Texas
Wiper Motor
I recently bought my 92 F-150, and haven't had a chance to pick up an FSM yet.
Question: Is it necessary to first remove the cowl panel to remove the windshield wiper motor? Looks like it needs to come off to access the fastener on the end of the transmission shaft.
THANKS!
JD
Question: Is it necessary to first remove the cowl panel to remove the windshield wiper motor? Looks like it needs to come off to access the fastener on the end of the transmission shaft.
THANKS!
JD
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Des Plaines, Illinois
You don't NEED to remove the cowl...but it WILL make things easier. I'm actually due to replace my motor here shortly, so I've been doing my reading...although I haven't switched the motor in the truck yet...but I have done the one in my Datsun before.
What symptoms do you have? My motor is running very slow and loud...it's on its last legs.
What symptoms do you have? My motor is running very slow and loud...it's on its last legs.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Republic of Texas
In response to questions regarding symptoms:
The truck has been sitting for about the last 8 years, so there are a few things that need the bugs worked out. The wipers are completely non-operational, but the intermittant module "clicks" when the MFS switch is activated. So, at this point, I'm assuming that those components are working. I've checked the fuse boxes and everything is fine.
Coincidentally, today I was fiddling with the switch again while driving, and when turned all the way to the high-speed setting, the motor actually operated, verrrrrrry slooooooooowwwwwwwly, with a very bad sound. After a couple of cycles, it stopped again (luckily, in the nearly-down position). Also, the outside of the motor housing is very rusty, which indicates to me that the inside probably looks similar.
My plan is to remove and bench-test the wiper motor assembly. If I can slide it apart and clean it out, maybe it'll work again. I'm not going to spend a lot of time on it before I take it to town and swap it for a re-man motor assembly. They're only like $50 or so.
If I'm on the wrong path, please give me some other ideas to check.
Thanks!
JD
The truck has been sitting for about the last 8 years, so there are a few things that need the bugs worked out. The wipers are completely non-operational, but the intermittant module "clicks" when the MFS switch is activated. So, at this point, I'm assuming that those components are working. I've checked the fuse boxes and everything is fine.
Coincidentally, today I was fiddling with the switch again while driving, and when turned all the way to the high-speed setting, the motor actually operated, verrrrrrry slooooooooowwwwwwwly, with a very bad sound. After a couple of cycles, it stopped again (luckily, in the nearly-down position). Also, the outside of the motor housing is very rusty, which indicates to me that the inside probably looks similar.
My plan is to remove and bench-test the wiper motor assembly. If I can slide it apart and clean it out, maybe it'll work again. I'm not going to spend a lot of time on it before I take it to town and swap it for a re-man motor assembly. They're only like $50 or so.
If I'm on the wrong path, please give me some other ideas to check.
Thanks!
JD
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 121
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From: Republic of Texas
Thanks!
JD
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2004
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From: Lakewood, Ohio
i would start with the switch.
disconnect the batt first. use small screwdriver to pop end off switch, clean that baby up.
l would run the wipers for a while with water dribbling on the windshield.
when i do not use my truck for a long time the wipers seem run slower for a minute or so.
disconnect the batt first. use small screwdriver to pop end off switch, clean that baby up.
l would run the wipers for a while with water dribbling on the windshield.
when i do not use my truck for a long time the wipers seem run slower for a minute or so.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 121
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From: Republic of Texas
i would start with the switch.
disconnect the batt first. use small screwdriver to pop end off switch, clean that baby up.
l would run the wipers for a while with water dribbling on the windshield.
when i do not use my truck for a long time the wipers seem run slower for a minute or so.
disconnect the batt first. use small screwdriver to pop end off switch, clean that baby up.
l would run the wipers for a while with water dribbling on the windshield.
when i do not use my truck for a long time the wipers seem run slower for a minute or so.
Thanks!
JD
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From: Lakewood, Ohio
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My 95 f250 had non operational wipers with the GEM module clicking when I turned the wiper switch on and off.
This means power is getting through the switch to the module.
If you disconnect the harness to the wiper motor under the hood and check for voltage you should at continuity pulsing to ground and a constant 12 V.
I dont remember which wire it is.
If you have the pulsing it is the motor. If there is no pulsing it is the GEM module.
The module is located to the upper right of the glove box when you remove the glove box.
I got one from the junck yard and fixed my problem.
This means power is getting through the switch to the module.
If you disconnect the harness to the wiper motor under the hood and check for voltage you should at continuity pulsing to ground and a constant 12 V.
I dont remember which wire it is.
If you have the pulsing it is the motor. If there is no pulsing it is the GEM module.
The module is located to the upper right of the glove box when you remove the glove box.
I got one from the junck yard and fixed my problem.
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Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Powell River B.C.
Yes you have to remove the cowl panel to get at the clip that's at the end of the arm on the motor shaft.
Giving that it has 2 plugs going to the motor (one to the motor and one to park) I would pull off the plug that is right on the motor. The terminal closest to the front of the truck (if I remember right) is full power the middle is low and the other end is the ground.
Hook up a test bulb (headlight is best because of more draw) to the terminals in the plug and make sure you get bright light on one and ground (when your switch is on high) and dim on the other and ground(when your switch is on low).
If that 30 second test checks out ok then pull the motor.
Giving that it has 2 plugs going to the motor (one to the motor and one to park) I would pull off the plug that is right on the motor. The terminal closest to the front of the truck (if I remember right) is full power the middle is low and the other end is the ground.
Hook up a test bulb (headlight is best because of more draw) to the terminals in the plug and make sure you get bright light on one and ground (when your switch is on high) and dim on the other and ground(when your switch is on low).
If that 30 second test checks out ok then pull the motor.