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i could not stand that setup but hey it aint my truck i like the looks of a clean engine bay no pipes all over no wires just a nice clean simple looking engine bay
$5000 or so would just get you a good port job. The heads are still 2v design, the intake ports SUCK at flowing alot of air, and the HEUI design would be better replaced with a little commonrail injector nozzle. You'd be looking at 30K plus for a set of CNC heads that would be the cats ***!
Anyway, its not about "not wanting" to ram the air in, it's just the only decision you're left with.
i wish i had $30000 cnc sum new heads but for that amount of cash youd be better off just swapping in a cummins
i could not stand that setup but hey it aint my truck i like the looks of a clean engine bay no pipes all over no wires just a nice clean simple looking engine bay
Might as well sell your truck and get a car with a SBC 350 in it.
Your 7.3 doesnt have pipes and wires running all over the place?
im talking about the pic posted by white buffalo with the twin turbo setup my uncle has a chevy truck (still running i believe it is an 88) with the 350 in it so i get my fill of clean engine bays from that
im talking about the pic posted by white buffalo with the twin turbo setup my uncle has a chevy truck (still running i believe it is an 88) with the 350 in it so i get my fill of clean engine bays from that
You might want to Google that guy to see what he has accomplished with the 7.3 engine. He is in the top 5 in the 1/4 I think. That was before the 2 hairdryers. That pic you just saw was a courtesy shot to those who kept begging for pics.
As far as comparing that 20 year old gasser to Luke's truck
Here's a HiJack, Jason, I see you have a 1.0 housing awaiting install. Are you going to wait until it gets cold?
You suck Mike. But.......with the new Scan Gauge I've been hoping to get some Drive Pressure numbers to compare for when I put the 1.0 in. Now I just need to figure out how to figure it out
You suck Mike. But.......with the new Scan Gauge I've been hoping to get some Drive Pressure numbers to compare for when I put the 1.0 in. Now I just need to figure out how to figure it out
HIGHJACK
Jason,
Been contemplating buying that gauge all year. Just plug into the OBD port & run a power line right? How's the gauge at night? can you adjust the brightness?
I do want one, just haven't spoken to many that own one except for Chris.
Everything but the fuel pressure. Just need to get the "analog 1" wired to the sensor and power. It is sweet!
I had to get a fuel block w/ 3/8" npt ports, two plugs, and one 1/8" npt nipple from Jeggs. I already had the under the hood fuel gauge from DI so I just unscrewed the gauge and mounted the block where the gauge was. Should work....
i could not stand that setup but hey it aint my truck i like the looks of a clean engine bay no pipes all over no wires just a nice clean simple looking engine bay
how the hell are you going to have twins w/o having piping all over? When you add a second charger things are bound to get tight. Especially when you have to add another feed line, drain line and relocate stuff to make room for the charger. keep in mind my big charger is big enough that i can sit a 32 oz Gatorade bottle on the compressor wheel and it wont touch the compressor housing.
wide open performance is who built the kit for my truck. It is a very big setup yet spools very well on the street. it was well worth the $ spent.
Been contemplating buying that gauge all year. Just plug into the OBD port & run a power line right? How's the gauge at night? can you adjust the brightness?
I do want one, just haven't spoken to many that own one except for Chris.
You only need to run power for the fuel pressure sensor. If you don't get that option then no. The whole thing runs off OBDII power The lighting dims nice. No problems with day or night. I'll start a new thread when I get it all going.
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