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OK guys, I have finally gathered all of the parts, and I have been able to schedule the time to take the work truck out of service and finally replace the injectors.
Although I have the basic idea of what I want to do, and a good mechanical ability, I have not done this on a Ford before (just big Detroits).
Any pointers or links would be great. (also torque specs)
Thanks
P.S. I am going to do glow plugs, UVC harness, bellowed up-pipes, new IC boots, 6.0 tranny cooler, and boost and pyro gauges. Did I miss anything?
GPs=14lb/ft, VCs=96lb/in, rocker arms=20lb/in, cyl head bolts=95lb/ft, pedestal/turbo bolts=18lb/ft, turbo up pipe clamp 62lb/in, injector bolts=120lb/in or 10lb/ft, oil deflector bolt=9lb/ft.
Nothing special except making sure to use proper socket to get the GPs out, it is tight, and make sure to evacuate the cylinders prior to install and startup. Follow any good instructions from Swamps or DI websites.
Gonna start the project on Tuesday - I will keep everybody posted.
Hopefully this cures the romp problem I have - it is to the point that it romps even in the summer if (1) it is not plugged in or (2) I am not running 5-40 synth. If it sits for more then about 5 hours w/o a block heater, it will romp and just be lame until all of the injectors come online.
Mike, shouldn't that be 20 lb/FT on the rockers not inches?
The important part is getting the oil out of the cylinder before you fire it back up. You can use a breaker bar or ratchet to turn the crank by hand (with the glow plugs removed) to remove some of the oil. If you use the key to bump the engine make sure you unplug the CPS or pull the IDM fuse to prevent the truck from starting.
OK guys, I have finally gathered all of the parts, and I have been able to schedule the time to take the work truck out of service and finally replace the injectors.
Although I have the basic idea of what I want to do, and a good mechanical ability, I have not done this on a Ford before (just big Detroits).
Any pointers or links would be great. (also torque specs)
Thanks
P.S. I am going to do glow plugs, UVC harness, bellowed up-pipes, new IC boots, 6.0 tranny cooler, and boost and pyro gauges. Did I miss anything?
If you haven't already I would consider the in-tank & pre pump mods (or like Kwik an in tank fuel pump) to get the air out of the fuel system and protect the investment in the new injectors, if the $ is available a regulated return or CCK.
Keep in mind that i'm 20 minutes away, im sure we could put your truck in the shop one night and do the injectors, boots, and all the topend stuff. Ive done it before and i have all the tools...
Keep in mind that i'm 20 minutes away, im sure we could put your truck in the shop one night and do the injectors, boots, and all the topend stuff. Ive done it before and i have all the tools...
Kris - thanks VERY much for the offer. I am going to try this one at the house, having read some of the links on swapping injectors, it does not look too bad. I will say, though, is is a very comforting feeling knowing there is someone with experience in this project only 20 minutes away should I run into a WTF situation.
Mike, shouldn't that be 20 lb/FT on the rockers not inches?
The important part is getting the oil out of the cylinder before you fire it back up. You can use a breaker bar or ratchet to turn the crank by hand (with the glow plugs removed) to remove some of the oil. If you use the key to bump the engine make sure you unplug the CPS or pull the IDM fuse to prevent the truck from starting.
20 lb/FT is right. If you crank it with the key to get the oil out, put some heavy cardboard over the heads. I remember Kwikk (Dan) saying that it comes out with a good deal of force.
Kris - thanks VERY much for the offer. I am going to try this one at the house, having read some of the links on swapping injectors, it does not look too bad. I will say, though, is is a very comforting feeling knowing there is someone with experience in this project only 20 minutes away should I run into a WTF situation.
I will keep everyone posted
Seriously consider taking him up on his offer:
1. He has a shop with LOTS of space, and it's COVERED so no weather issues
2. He has the tools
3. He has experience doing these tasks (several times over!)
I recently did my breaks and was going to do it in the driveway. My neighbor has a shop and offered to let me use it & his air tools, so I said sure.... turns out my right-rear rotor & caliper were being destroyed because the inside pad was ejected. Had I been working at home I'd have been in a heck of a spot.
Besided, you'll get to hang with a fellow FTE'er, talk shop, etc. and have an extra pair of hands... do it, man.
20 lb/FT is right. If you crank it with the key to get the oil out, put some heavy cardboard over the heads. I remember Kwikk (Dan) saying that it comes out with a good deal of force.
Even turning the crank by hand will shoot a pretty good stream of oil
Originally Posted by papadelogan
Seriously consider taking him up on his offer:
1. He has a shop with LOTS of space, and it's COVERED so no weather issues
2. He has the tools
3. He has experience doing these tasks (several times over!)
Besided, you'll get to hang with a fellow FTE'er, talk shop, etc. and have an extra pair of hands... do it, man.
I agree. I can change injectors at my house with no problems, but if Kris lived 20 min. from me and made the offer, I'd be there in a heartbeat. I'd guess it might cut your install time in half.