I got my new 65 F-100 stepside running after being dormant for years, what do I fill the transmission (manual 3spd) and differential (2 wheel)with?

 

I run 80W-90 gear oil in my manuals and rear ends. I belive the correct fluid is hypoid gear oil, Ive never seen it on the shelfs and just used 80W-90 my whole life.

 

I'm planning on changing the lubricants in the drive train on my '65 F-100. Ford 9-inch rear. The manual references a drain plug, but not seeing one (only the filler plug), I'm guessing that the drain plug reference is a general reference to the numerous other differentials available on Ford trucks, but not the Ford 9 inch. Do I need to pull the cover off to drain it? I seems I recall having to on my '62 Lincoln, but that was 20 years ago. I don't recall what differential was in that beast.

In the previous post in this thread Flipklos is running 80W-90 differential hypoid gear lubricant in his manual 3-spd transmission. The manual lists SAE 50 for temperatures above 10 degrees F (it never gets below that here). Is there a reason to use gear oil instead?

My truck has tight, responsive steering now (compared to other vintage trucks I've driven...it isn't like the handling of my Saab). My rag joint looks new. How important is it to change the steering fluid? Where can I find the FoMoCo Special Steering Gear Lubricant?

Thanks.

 

My 1963 f10 has a drain plug on the front differential, but not the rear. I don't know why that is. Just make sure its filled up all the way to the fill plug. Mine didn't have any in the rear, which is bad. It hadn't been driven in about 9 years though, so i hope it leaked out then. It hasn't had any leaks that i can see since i filled it up.

I changed the transmission oil, t-case oil, and both differentials with over 15 quarts of 80w-90 gear oil. It runs a lot smoother now and i highly recommend that anyone who has a car or truck this old does the same.

 

Checked the 65 shop manual and could not find any mention other than removing the 'lower drain plug', which our rear axles housing don't have. If intend removing the cover plate to inspect the bearings and gears might try loosening the upper bolts then remove the lowers and see if you can loosen the bottom portion of the cover plate to allow for draining; otherwise, remove all bolts and use a large drain pan.

If interested in changing oil only, I would begin by taking one of the flexible type magnetic wands and see if it's possible to snake around the bottom of the housing and check for any significant metal deposits; if it appears clean then may try using the filler pump in reverse and siphon the old oil out. Suggest driving the truck around the block couple times to warm the oil up. Likely need a piece of hose that will fit the end of the pump and reach the bottom of the axle housing. As for tranny, and oil viscosity, could not find any mention in shop manual other than a couple of part numbers, this is why I sometimes find the shop manual frustrating, I use 80-90 wt for both, and would not go below 50. Anyhow, had an urge to chime in add my

 

I found that putting a magnetic heater on the housing for an hour or so helps thin it out. Then use a suction gun to suck most of it out.

Unless you spend alot of time hauling heavy loads or racing 50W is acceptable in the transmission. In fact in cold weather it is a good idea as it thins out much faster then 80-90W. One could probobly even put it in their front differetial if they use 4x4 less then 10% of the time. 50W engine oil is only slightly thinner then 80W gear oil.