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The only other thing that shows any wear is the steering. There's about about 1 1/2" of play in the steering wheel before the tires actually move. Dunno if that normal with these or not.
This is an easy fix if it bugs you. Just do it in tiny increments, drive it and do it a little more and so on. On the top of the steering gear box there is an adjustable allen screw and a locking nut. Turn the allen screw clockwise. I would do no more than and 1/8 of a turn at a time.
Funny thing that you mention that....I've worked on classic cars for about 8 years now, and for some reason it completey slipped my mind to think that they still made gear boxes like that!
OK, time to get this back to the top and pick your guys' brain a little. I finally got the time off the ship to tear apart my front end.
First of all, I'd like to thank Austin for posting the link on the tear down. VERY HELPFUL!
So, got both sides halfway apart, and then completely took apart the passenger side since I could feel rubbing/grinding while turning the hub. The locking hubs feel/look fine. The hub assembly itself feels/looks fine as well. The little needle bearing in passenger side (haven't taken off the driver's yet) I think I will replace. The needles move side to side, but do not spin. The entire internals of the hub area and outer axle shaft are bone dry. I'm guessing this should be pretty greasy. Also, when I took out the locking hubs, I noticed a build up of a little grease and what appeared to be rust flakes (like found on old rotors) inside. Not sure where this came from.
How do I know if the outer axle shafts are damaged from the needle bearings? I don't see any marring or grooves or gouges...feels pretty smooth to me.
Any thoughts as to where I'm at now, are VERY welcomed. Thanks again for all the great replies, and keep them coming!
Yes, seals came from the factory, they don't do much except keep dust out and possibly water if you go that deep. I dont have any on mine, because theyare not necessary. The oil seal is in near the axle pumpkin.
First of all, I'd like to thank Austin for posting the link on the tear down. VERY HELPFUL!
How do I know if the outer axle shafts are damaged from the needle bearings? I don't see any marring or grooves or gouges...feels pretty smooth to me.
Chad
No problem, always glad to help.
If your axles were damaged they would be gouged up pretty good, so you're probably good just doing the needle or inner axle bearings. Hopefully driver's side is okay too. You can go to any parts store and get the B2110 bearings and save over the dealership's price. Timken makes a good bearing, and they run around $10.
Another thing you should check, as the passenger side sems to get it more, is if there is contact happening between the axle shaft and the hub. Follow this link for the service bulletin:
and see if the white plastic/nylon piece has any rub/wear marks like the illustration in the bulletin shows. That can cause vibration also as the hubs try to engage on their own when that happens. Usually there's a ratcheting sound when this happens, but not always.
Sounds like you're making good progress. You're also saving a fistfull of money by doing it yourself.
OK, last update for today...cuz my back is killing me! (had a spinal tap a week ago and still recovering) After getting the driver's side all torn down, and comparing the sides, the passenger side outer axle is scrap. Where the bearing and shaft are suppose to contact, there is a nice even 1/32" grove all around the shaft, the width of the bearing. The driver side looked beautiful. Full of grease, nice and shiny, and no grooves. So, guess I'm gonna go looking for a new outer shaft. To me there's no point in putting in new parts if you still have a damged one in there: seems counter-productive. So, I definitely feel as though this is where my vibration is coming from.
Question: What years/models outer axles will fit mine?
Question: Driver/passenger outer axles the same?
Question: What holds the axles in the differential? Anything?
The axle ends do not contact the locking hub units whatsoever, so I have dodged that bullet it looks like...although, I'd rather have to drill a hole than replace an outer shaft! Thanks again for all the input.
Alright, went to the junkyard, and nothing bigger than 1/2 tons there. Had a welder/machinist look at it and I'm going to have it built back up and then turned down. Now, I'm feeling a little dumb....went to pull out the axle, and cant figure out how the hell it comes out. Other axles I've worked on had a c-clip holding in place on the inde of the spider gears. No c-clip. Someone tell me what I'm missing so I can feel a little better about myself? LoL Thanks!
If you have got to where you have pulled the hub assembly off the only thing you need to do is pry the old axle out. I did it by using a pry bar and getting behind the knuckle and prying against the u joint. nothing hold the axle into the diff its just a matter of getting that seal in the knuckle broke loose. I had to pry pretty hard to do it so dont be afraid of getting mean with it.
As for the axle I have a few local places that have them, no clue if you will or not?? six states, and henderson wheel.
Thanks Tazz. Let me know what your local place is selling them for. I'm gonna try to refurb this one, but it never hurts to have a back up if it fails down the road.
OK, got the axle out finally...little finesse, little convincing, little cussing, some pacing and it's out. Got the U-Joint out, which was another act of congress. Friend of mine is built up the groove, and my other friend will be turning it down tomorrow morning, and will hopefully have it together this weekend. I'll keep you all posted on how it all goes.
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