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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Dizzy will not seat

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Old Aug 16, 2008 | 03:56 PM
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From: Bartow, Fl
Dizzy will not seat

Help!
I cant not get this dis. to seat and now I have it stuck.
I tried to turn the oil pump shaft to help line them up and it still will not go in all the way. Any one got a trick for this. the oil pump shaft lays over to one side no matter what I do so I took a larger dill bit and champered the dis to help it slide in to place ( boy thats so not the case) This by far is the hardest part of this rebuild byfar! oh by the way this is an 89' 302 converted to carb. almost ready to pay to have this done.....and I hate to pay for anything!
 
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Old Aug 16, 2008 | 05:33 PM
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It should easily fall into place. Does the shaft match the distributor?
 
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Old Aug 17, 2008 | 01:40 AM
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It should go in fairly easy, but I have replaced the dizzy on the 302 in my Capri twice, and it was a bear to get in both times. It would go in all but the last .25". It was enough to know the shaft was lined up and the teeth were meshing properly, but it just wouldn't go down. I ended up tapping it in with a rubber mallet both times. It still moves easily for adjustment, so I'm not sure what was going on.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2008 | 07:40 AM
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LOL ok dont hit it just get it close to where you want it i always set it around 20 to 25 degrees btdc line up #1 on your cap and if it wont go all the way down say maybe 1/4 to 1/8 just roll the motor over till it lines up on the oil pump shaft i just crank the motor over with the starter
 
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Old Aug 17, 2008 | 04:17 PM
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If the oil pump shaft is falling over like he described, then the shaft has come out of the oil pump, and he's never going to get it in without pulling the shaft up and re-seating it inside the oil pump.

This is a common problem with gummed up and stuck oil pump driveshafts. They have a little retainer that's supposed to keep it from coming out of the pump when you pull the dist, but it doesn't do a very good job.

If you can't pull the shaft all the way out of the engine, then the retainer is still on the shaft, it has just slid up some. I would find a socket and long extension that fits the shaft, tape the extension and socket together so they won't fall apart, and put grease inside the socket, and try to grab and pull up on the shaft and fit it back down into the pump. Long needle nose pliers and or a magnet may work too.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2008 | 07:37 PM
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I got it to seat after about 6 hours of slightly turning the shaft ( using a screwdriver that will hold bits, it had a magnet in it so ever once and awhile it would pull the shaft out) I set it on TDC and pointed it just before #1 and it fell into place. but it will not fire. I set the wires for 15426378 but it will not even begin to run. Do I have the right timing? or is it the 351 13726548?
It is a 302 but it has roller lifters.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2008 | 08:27 PM
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A good trick for the shaft problem if you ever run into that kind of trouble again is to put some heavy greese around the oil pump shaft to hold it centered do it won't fall to one side. I had the same trouble years ago and this worked like a charm. As for not firing , go back and check all the connections,(I'm sure you did but) power to the coil, duraspark box plugs, dizzy plug and anything else you may have disturbed doing the job.
Good luck
 
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Old Aug 17, 2008 | 08:35 PM
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That is the correct firing order. Did you make sure you were on a compression stroke when you located TDC. The crankshaft will point to TDC twice and if you are on the exhaust cycle ,it will be 180 degrees out and probably won't even fire and definately won't start.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 07:33 AM
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after I tried to start it I pulled the cap off and it was 180 out so are you saying the balancer hits 0 twice and I just started on the wrong one?
 
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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 08:26 AM
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Yes, the sprocket on the camshaft is twice as big as the sprocket on the crankshaft. So the crankshaft will turn twice for every one revolution of the cam. The cam that opens and closes the valves is what determines TDC when it closes both valves on #1 cylinder.

There are two common ways to figure out true TDC. One is take the valve cover off over #1 cylinder, and watch the valves as you turn the engine. When both valves are closed and the TDC mark comes around, then that's TDC.

Another method is to take #1 sparkplug out and hold your finger over the hole, while someone turns the engine. When you feel pressure on your finger from air coming out of the hole, then start looking for the TDC mark on the damper.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 09:37 AM
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thank you
I'll give it a try tonight before or little hurricane.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 03:19 PM
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i usually just bump the starter once and it falls back into place
 
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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2

Another method is to take #1 sparkplug out and hold your finger over the hole, while someone turns the engine. When you feel pressure on your finger from air coming out of the hole, then start looking for the TDC mark on the damper.
I have reinstalled the #1 spark plug about 1/2 turn before and when you turn it over it will hiss when you are on the compression stroke. Sometimes another person isn't handy.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by doug1222556
I have reinstalled the #1 spark plug about 1/2 turn before and when you turn it over it will hiss when you are on the compression stroke. Sometimes another person isn't handy.
Good idea. Doesn't somebody make a whistle that screws into the sparkplug hole too?
 
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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 10:07 PM
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Line her up and bump the starter, it will drop right in. My Uncle showed me that trick in the 70's works every time. Also seems that I have to use it every time...
 
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