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Tire wear and alignment

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Old Aug 16, 2008 | 01:55 PM
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Tire wear and alignment

I've been noticing some weird wear on the insides of my front tires, after about 3,000-3,500 miles they start cupping/feathering up on the inside edges. The first time I thought it was because of the ball joints, replaced the loose ball joints and still have the problem.
I took the truck to Schwab's today and they ran it on the rack and checked everything out- everything is in spec, all the tie rods, steering box, ball joints, etc. are fine. He said the only thing he could see what that the camber setting is on the low end, but for the cost of new bushings that may or may not fix the problem he didn't think it was worth it. His suggestion was to play with tire pressure and rotate the tires more, around every 3K miles.
Early 99 F250 4x4, stock suspension, 285/75/16 BFG All Terrains (new to new-ish when I bought the truck this spring) on stock wheels, steering wheel slightly off-set to the left when driving. The steering stabilizer is dented up pretty good and the pass. side sway bar mount is bent thanks to the PO. I can pick up a little bit of vibration in the steering wheel at 35 mph... I'm wondering about tire balance? Shocks? Steering stabilizer? Other thoughts?
 
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Old Aug 16, 2008 | 02:06 PM
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I would suggest taking it to an alignment guy that REALLY knows what he's doing. I would get that camber right first of all. In the long run its cheaper than tires. I've been lucky cause at 133k and third set of tires my alignment has never been touched, checked a few times, but never adjusted. good luck
 
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Old Aug 16, 2008 | 04:49 PM
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The guy seemed pretty sharp, I don't think he was feeding me a line of BS. The trouble is, there aren't any other local shops anyways. Everything is in spec, but the camber was on the low end of spec.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2008 | 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by superduty4x4
I've been noticing some weird wear on the insides of my front tires, after about 3,000-3,500 miles they start cupping/feathering up on the inside edges. The first time I thought it was because of the ball joints, replaced the loose ball joints and still have the problem.
I took the truck to Schwab's today and they ran it on the rack and checked everything out- everything is in spec, all the tie rods, steering box, ball joints, etc. are fine. He said the only thing he could see what that the camber setting is on the low end, but for the cost of new bushings that may or may not fix the problem he didn't think it was worth it. His suggestion was to play with tire pressure and rotate the tires more, around every 3K miles.
Early 99 F250 4x4, stock suspension, 285/75/16 BFG All Terrains (new to new-ish when I bought the truck this spring) on stock wheels, steering wheel slightly off-set to the left when driving. The steering stabilizer is dented up pretty good and the pass. side sway bar mount is bent thanks to the PO. I can pick up a little bit of vibration in the steering wheel at 35 mph... I'm wondering about tire balance? Shocks? Steering stabilizer? Other thoughts?
Hi neighbor (couple hundred miles out here is next to nothing, right? BTW, I love your town )! I had the same problem on my early 1999 dually...with Michelin LTX tires. Now I have Michelin Rib XPS and not a sign of that weird cupping on the inner edge of the front tires. I had two shops that I know check the spec's and could find nothing out of whack...go figure.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2008 | 05:27 PM
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I got the same thing...went home on leave for 15 days and my front right tire was cupping a little bit(enough for a neak freak like me to see it) and I replaced the balljoints last summer so i figured thats why. Went to the alignment shop I always used to go to with my truck(Farm&Fleet) and they said "Sorry Bye" cuz my truck is lifted....now i've gota look for a shop that can align lifted trucks....it used to cost me about $50 to get it alinged...now not sure what another shop will charge me. But its well worth that little bit of cash knowing the front end is straight!
 
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Old Aug 16, 2008 | 06:08 PM
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I firmly believe you will get this cupping on some tires.. It is all in the way the mfgr designed the belts. I too had problem this on the original General tires but after switching to Michelin LTX's a couple of years ago, they are wearing even and smooth...(with no alignment)
 
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Old Aug 16, 2008 | 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by nlemerise
Hi neighbor (couple hundred miles out here is next to nothing, right? BTW, I love your town )!
If you make it up this way soon let me know. Come October I'll probably be outta here (job transfer back to WA).
Someone on another site knocked me for having 285/75/16's on stock wheels and said that was the problem... wheels too narrow for the tires. I think I'm just going to keep an eye on the darn things for a while and see what shakes out.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2008 | 06:50 PM
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Chase, Check your toe-in with tape measure. Halfway up front and back. Usually feathering on inside means too much toe-out. Maintain full air pressure as noted on tires, not on door sticker. Carroll
 
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Old Aug 16, 2008 | 06:54 PM
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I believe they measured the toe-in when they had it at the shop but I'll check. I may run a tad more tire pressure and see what that does also, but I don't want to start wearing the centers out from too much air.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2008 | 07:22 PM
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Your alignment might have been off before you did your ball joints. Even if the new ball joints brought it back in to specs, the wear pattern will continue on the tires. Some tires are worse than others. For example, I run BFG AT as they work best for my needs even though they wear way too fast. Once a wear pattern starts in them, it continues regardless if the alignment has been corrected or not.

Austin
 
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Old Aug 16, 2008 | 09:02 PM
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I had the same problem with my truck. Had an alignment done and they said it was all fine. Had the ball joints check, it was all fine. Truck drove weird, finally took it to another place for an alignment, and the toe was really bad, something like -8 and the camber was off also. Had the alignment done, and everything is fine, except my wallet that went through 500 dollars in tires trying to figure the wear out. My suggestion, take it to another alignment shop, ask for the results if they tell you nothing is wrong. I used Big O in Loveland, CO, did a great job.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2008 | 09:16 PM
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Chase,

Check your shock bushings. A friend had both front tires cupping on the inside and found the upper shock bushings on both sides had worn until they were eliptical. Tires would bounce before the shocks would compress. Worth a look.

Bad shocks will also let the tires bounce and not keep then in contact with the road.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2008 | 09:45 PM
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Thanks for the tip Robin, I'll check that. My list of "crap needing done to the 'ol girl" is growing faster than I can get stuff fixed!
 
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Old Aug 16, 2008 | 10:40 PM
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Robin- not sure if pulling the bolts is required or not to see what you were talking about (probably so) but even so:



Also some photos of the steering stabilizer and sway bar mount damage:





 
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Old Aug 16, 2008 | 10:52 PM
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The sway bar bracket might be okay, as it might be the result of a TSB and fix from Ford. Might be the previous owner's quick fix too. I don't know as I have an '01 maybe some with '99s will post and help. I figured I'd post this to maybe give you a starting point to find out the way it is supposed to be fixed.


Ford TSB 00-1-6

99/99.5 F-Series Sway Bar Breaks off Right Side of Front Axle:
The bracket welded to the right side of the front axle may break off due to stress. The fix is to cut the old bracket off and install one which is positioned higher on the axle. This also requires a revised left side spring cap and sway bar. Replace all hardware and both insulators.
TSB #00-1-6.

Unrelated to the sway bar bracket breaking is problems with the frame braket breaking at the top of the sway bar link. There is a cast bracket available to correct this, P/N F81Z-5C495-BH. OR, to correct this and the problem of the link bushings shifting off center and contacting the bracket or sway bar, model/year 2000 links (P/N 1C3Z-5K483-BB and -BA) and brackets (YC3Z-5C495-AA) with attaching hardware may be installed. SSM 15157

good luck,

Austin
 
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