hi dont know if this helps but i just did mine one side easy other side very frozen i used 2 pieces of 1in alltheard from old job and some scrap angle iron and made a simple press to put a load on the pin then heat and hit take up on nuts and you hit i liked this to hammering the you know out of it the only kingpin reamer in my step dads box is for my truck what luck todd

 

hi dont know if this helps but i just did mine one side easy other side very frozen i used 2 pieces of 1in alltheard from old job and some scrap angle iron and made a simple press to put a load on the pin then heat and hit take up on nuts and you hit i liked this to hammering the you know out of it the only kingpin reamer in my step dads box is for my truck what luck todd

 

Yes Bill, the King Pin is different for 65 verses 66. Agree 100 percent, but the 65 pins fit the later 66 through 79 spindles. The instaled OD and ID to ream to is basically similar, A shop or a DIY will fit the pin to the busihings with .004 or so clearance.

The king pin laid side by side with the 66 will be the same legenth, however the cut for the cross locking bolt is in a differing location. This actually varies somewhat over the years so it is imperiative that one matches the king pin as you mentioned with the year of I beam. And beams could have been swapperd out if one was bent or unable to be aligned.

Garbz

 

Numberdummy,
what would make the I Beam on a 65 differ from
the ones on a 73-79, one thing would be the retaining bolt hole
would be in a different location that holds the kingpin. So the
I Beams are different as you have stated!

Heres how I would not let my old 65 king pins win the fight!

Are you planning on a disc swap?

On my 65 disc brake swap I had already removed the king pins from my
donor ( 78 ) 150 they came out easy because the king pins had been
replaced, my 65 the king pins did not want to move at all, so not wanting
the kingpin to win the FIGHT, I cut right across the bottom of the spindle,
being careful not to cut into the( I beams ) GO SLOW! stop before you get
all the way though and you can whack it with a chisle and hammer in the
slot you cut not to hard I used a 4 inch grinder with a cut off thin wheel! 15 MINUTES later the top and the bottom of the spindel will ( fall off ). Now you are looking a the I beam with the king pin sticking out , spray with something like PB blaster make sure you spray were the bolt retains the king pin,Spray the hole good and let it sit over night tie walmart bags over the end (you sure dont need any more rust in there) go out the next day and spray the kingpins and the hole again and start getting ready to beat them with a 5 pound hammer, BFH. Now before you start beating slip a washer that fits the king pin over the king pin, I took a 1 inch thick piece of aluminum about 4x4 square, place on top of king pin and hold with channel locks and start pounding, I do know what your thinking, my king pin will MUSHROOM! Your right It will, but when that king pin starts moving SOUTH it will be worth it! Now with when you beat that pin about within about 3/8 of an inch of the washer ( STOP ) now take a dremel with a small grinding disc and grind the MUSHROOM part down a little smaller than the hole in your washer I used the washer so I would not grind on the I beam at all, when the washer slides off, drop it back on the king pin so you don't grind on the I beam any, and go ahead and take a little more off, just to be sure that it will still go though the I beam loose, spray it some more and the retaining bolt hole, leave the washer on and I found a small round aluminum piece of round stock, it happen to have a threaded hole in it where I installed a small bolt, it made for a more solid whack with BFH. I did hold it with channel locks. Stay square on the pin you can slip a small piece of rubber hose over the drift so it wont mess up I beams, if it keeps going hard spray again and again!


I hope this TIP/ TRICK will help some one out there!


P.S only do this if you don't want your old spindles!


Wally Womack

 

Dave explained better than I could, as he has tons of practical experience.

I'm retired, and I don't work on vehicles anymore except to detail them.

I read and type what the Ford parts catalogs say is correct.

 

There is one other difference I havent seen brought up totally unique to the 65 vs 66-up trucks...they have a rebound hook for each axle to prevent excessive rebound travel...thus theres an extra hole in the beam...if you look on 66 up beams, theres a flat boss about 16-18" inboard from outboard end of the beam...this is where the hole was on the 65 beams...As for the kingpin kit....I, with the trusty aid of said parts books, figured out the kit, and went thru the 2 kits as in the books, the kits contents are also listed individually for the most part and compared the 2...The differences may make people ask why this will fit this and all that, but 65 is a standalone year on the kingpin kits...If you dont wanna deal with them one year only issue, go get a pair of the later I beams...of which I also have...drum to drum in need of a home btw...
My replacement beams...or at least the one that is out to see is marked C5TA-9-B...I guess they didnt want the extra weight from the other numbers :-)



- cs65

 

Took mine to a machine shop and had them press out the old and then the new..Cost me $20.00/It was worth it. Did it the old way once..I hate kingpins

 

Yea, if they dont budge this weekend (soaking in PB all week) i'll just bring them to a machine shop, i just hope i dont have to do that.

 

when i did mine i took the bolt out and they fell out is that bad ???????

 

If they fall out...as in alot of slop...I would say a few parts may be bad or have been...As to pulling the axles...its a pretty straight forward procedure...no special tools required ...just need large size wrenches/sockets and a wire brush and penetrating oil....



- cs65

 

Does anyone know where to get kingpins for a 1965 f100 4x4 dana 44 front axles?

 

No such thing as kingpins for these trucks.

 

So they are ball joints? Do you know anywhere that carries the part? no one seems to know what is needed let alone have the parts

 

Instead of WD 40 or PB Blaster try half acetone and ATF. You will never go back and use anything else for this kind of thing.

 

No such thing as ball joints until 1972. You need to look at the Ford truck parts catalog pics to determine what parts are required.

1964/72 Ford Truck Parts Catalog / 1965 F100 4WD front driving axle and related parts shown here: Illustration Section 30, Page 9.

1965 F100 4WD front leaf springs and related parts shown here: Illustration Section 53, Page 7.

FTE member Old Harley has this CD catalog, will scan and post pics from it. This catalog is available from hipoparts.com for 22 bucks.