Axle seal
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Central NYS
Axle seal
Question about a leaking axle seal on "02 Navi:
My Ford CD cautions to never remove the seal by itself. It says to remove the axle seal and bearing together at the same time. Why can't I just pop the old seal out and pop in the new seal and leave the bearing alone ?
My Ford CD cautions to never remove the seal by itself. It says to remove the axle seal and bearing together at the same time. Why can't I just pop the old seal out and pop in the new seal and leave the bearing alone ?
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Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Connecticut
Short answer: You can.
If you wish to learn from somebody who actually did it, then you may want to read on.
When I took care of my leaky seal (99 XP AWD with LSD).
1. I took care of both sides already - did it while pumpkin is open.
2. Also took care of rear brake shoes - just $20 for the set @ Autozone
3. I did not replace the bearings on either side, just the seals - I read somewhere (Haynes maybe?) that it's easy to spot if you need new bearings, it's got something to do with play, or scoring of the axle itself so you'll make the call when you open it. If bearings are not that expensive, it is something to consider as preventive measure, I suppose. My point is it's not a must, assuming nothing is wrong with them.
Also, there are a couple of pitfalls and tips and most would only make sense once you're in there. I strongly suggest to read on because preparedness will save you half the time and trips to parts store/dealer:
1. Get the center lock bolt pin from the dealer, unless already corrected, there is an error in NAPA catalog that they have the wrong one (Can you re-use it?, sure you can, I did, used thread locker - but only because I had to move on, I bought the part ahead of time but...).
2. If you have LSD, get the additive from the dealer as well, they should know what it is - LSD ADDITIVE is the keyword for them (I heard that there are brands that has this additive already - I used Mobil1 full synth and still added additive). I can't recall if I needed a pump to put the oil, I would get down there and see if you think you'll need one, then buy one from any parts store.
3. If your **** about it, get the seals from the dealer, what I got from NAPA is *** but made in China (used it myself, and there seems to be nothing wrong with it). No pun intended on the last sentence. Ok I lied.
4. DO NOT USE non-dry goo to seal the diff - those ruckers leak, I had to re-do it and it was Permatex super-black that worked for me. I did re-tighten the bolts just a tad more after the seal had dried (at least a week afyter) although I think the label said I didn't have to (but it didn't say I shouldn't either,lol)
5. Depending on available tools at your disposal, and whether you've done something similar before, removing the old seal can be a pain. Just take your time, and whatever you do, try not to score the seal housing (the seal puller didn't help much for me, Haynes said to use the axle itself but didn't do it for fear of screwing up the spline)
6. If the c-clip wouldn't come out (and it should easily without much effort), then you have to rotate the the axle a bit, the back of the studs are hitting something preventing you from pushing it in all the way. C-clips does not require any special tool to remove, they should release easily if you have the axle all the way in.
7. Finally, the axle has a rubber vent tube, on top of the differential, driver side. Check that it's not clogged.
Good luck and work safely!
If you wish to learn from somebody who actually did it, then you may want to read on.
When I took care of my leaky seal (99 XP AWD with LSD).
1. I took care of both sides already - did it while pumpkin is open.
2. Also took care of rear brake shoes - just $20 for the set @ Autozone
3. I did not replace the bearings on either side, just the seals - I read somewhere (Haynes maybe?) that it's easy to spot if you need new bearings, it's got something to do with play, or scoring of the axle itself so you'll make the call when you open it. If bearings are not that expensive, it is something to consider as preventive measure, I suppose. My point is it's not a must, assuming nothing is wrong with them.
Also, there are a couple of pitfalls and tips and most would only make sense once you're in there. I strongly suggest to read on because preparedness will save you half the time and trips to parts store/dealer:
1. Get the center lock bolt pin from the dealer, unless already corrected, there is an error in NAPA catalog that they have the wrong one (Can you re-use it?, sure you can, I did, used thread locker - but only because I had to move on, I bought the part ahead of time but...).
2. If you have LSD, get the additive from the dealer as well, they should know what it is - LSD ADDITIVE is the keyword for them (I heard that there are brands that has this additive already - I used Mobil1 full synth and still added additive). I can't recall if I needed a pump to put the oil, I would get down there and see if you think you'll need one, then buy one from any parts store.
3. If your **** about it, get the seals from the dealer, what I got from NAPA is *** but made in China (used it myself, and there seems to be nothing wrong with it). No pun intended on the last sentence. Ok I lied.
4. DO NOT USE non-dry goo to seal the diff - those ruckers leak, I had to re-do it and it was Permatex super-black that worked for me. I did re-tighten the bolts just a tad more after the seal had dried (at least a week afyter) although I think the label said I didn't have to (but it didn't say I shouldn't either,lol)
5. Depending on available tools at your disposal, and whether you've done something similar before, removing the old seal can be a pain. Just take your time, and whatever you do, try not to score the seal housing (the seal puller didn't help much for me, Haynes said to use the axle itself but didn't do it for fear of screwing up the spline)
6. If the c-clip wouldn't come out (and it should easily without much effort), then you have to rotate the the axle a bit, the back of the studs are hitting something preventing you from pushing it in all the way. C-clips does not require any special tool to remove, they should release easily if you have the axle all the way in.
7. Finally, the axle has a rubber vent tube, on top of the differential, driver side. Check that it's not clogged.
Good luck and work safely!
Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 3,740
Likes: 37
From: Central NYS
Orleec,
Thank You for the detailed reply. Interestingly enough, we both did just about the same things:
1. I only did the leaking side. Thought about doing both sides while the pumpkin was opened, but figured why fix the other side if its not broke.
(BTW, the leaking one was on the right side. Fixed only the right side on my son's '00 Expy 2 years ago. Wonder why the right side leaks?)
2. Yep - did the brake shoes. Right side shoes took the oil bath - left side shoes had no linings!
3. Bearings were also fine, as were the bearing surfaces on the axle. (Only 70k miles, also.)
Pitfalls:
1. Yep - used the thread locker on the center bolt.
2. The synthetic gear oil I use is suposed to already have the additive. Since I had just changed the gear oil 2 months ago, I just reused it - doesn't chatter at all.
3. Just used aftermarket seal - don't even remember the name. Seal surface on the axle looked to be fine so if this seal outlasts the failing Ford seal I'm happy.
4. I had just changed the diff lube about 2 months ago with no leaks using the black stuff, so I just had to repeat the process. Big thing here is to get the mating surfaces absolutely clean with no residue remaing, and after torquing the cover down (with a torque wrench!) let the silicone cure for at least 12 hours before adding the lube.
5. The old seal came out with just a screw driver and a smal chisel (to get under the lib of the metal portion of the seal).
6. C-clip came out with nary a problem.
7. We had already verified that the vent tube was clear and didn't cause the axle seal failure.
What we did find was that the e-brake cable on the side with the missing brake linings was frozen. No wonder the lings were gone.
If anyone knows, I'm still wondering why the Ford CD has big block letter warnings not to take the axle seal out by itself - only take it out with the axle bearing.
These shop manuals a very useful tools, and most of their warings make perfect sense, but every once in a while I run into one that I can't figure out "Why"? So if anyone has an explaintion, I'm always willing to learn.
Thank You for the detailed reply. Interestingly enough, we both did just about the same things:
1. I only did the leaking side. Thought about doing both sides while the pumpkin was opened, but figured why fix the other side if its not broke.
(BTW, the leaking one was on the right side. Fixed only the right side on my son's '00 Expy 2 years ago. Wonder why the right side leaks?)
2. Yep - did the brake shoes. Right side shoes took the oil bath - left side shoes had no linings!
3. Bearings were also fine, as were the bearing surfaces on the axle. (Only 70k miles, also.)
Pitfalls:
1. Yep - used the thread locker on the center bolt.
2. The synthetic gear oil I use is suposed to already have the additive. Since I had just changed the gear oil 2 months ago, I just reused it - doesn't chatter at all.
3. Just used aftermarket seal - don't even remember the name. Seal surface on the axle looked to be fine so if this seal outlasts the failing Ford seal I'm happy.
4. I had just changed the diff lube about 2 months ago with no leaks using the black stuff, so I just had to repeat the process. Big thing here is to get the mating surfaces absolutely clean with no residue remaing, and after torquing the cover down (with a torque wrench!) let the silicone cure for at least 12 hours before adding the lube.
5. The old seal came out with just a screw driver and a smal chisel (to get under the lib of the metal portion of the seal).
6. C-clip came out with nary a problem.
7. We had already verified that the vent tube was clear and didn't cause the axle seal failure.
What we did find was that the e-brake cable on the side with the missing brake linings was frozen. No wonder the lings were gone.
If anyone knows, I'm still wondering why the Ford CD has big block letter warnings not to take the axle seal out by itself - only take it out with the axle bearing.
These shop manuals a very useful tools, and most of their warings make perfect sense, but every once in a while I run into one that I can't figure out "Why"? So if anyone has an explaintion, I'm always willing to learn.
