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Old Aug 15, 2008 | 04:31 PM
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Rotors for 2000 X

It would appear based on my reading the forum that I need new rotors. I would like the opinions of those who pull large trailers and have replaced their rotors. We pull a horse trailer and large camper (7000 lbs +). I do not want to have to replace these again anytime soon. Therefore, I would like hear from those who hav had long term succes with rotor replacement.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2008 | 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by mkostas
It would appear based on my reading the forum that I need new rotors. I would like the opinions of those who pull large trailers and have replaced their rotors. We pull a horse trailer and large camper (7000 lbs +). I do not want to have to replace these again anytime soon. Therefore, I would like hear from those who hav had long term succes with rotor replacement.
Do a search using my name, and the term "cryo" and you'll read a bunch of thread detailing the success I've had (and the problems leading up to the point I replaced the OEM rotors) with Powerslot Cryo treated rotors.

I pull a 10K lb dump trailer, an 8500 - 9500 lb, 31' Wildwood TT, and a 7K lb 4-horse Sundowner bumper-pull.

I love these cryo treated Powerslots.

Stewart
 
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Old Aug 15, 2008 | 08:48 PM
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I ordered a set of drilled/slotted rotors from brakeplanet.com. I've had them on for about 4 months now and love them. I pull a 9500# 24' enclosed car trailer. The prices were exceptionally reasonable:

Subtotal: $300.41
Shipping & Handling: $85.21
Sales Tax: $0.00
-----------------------------------
Purchase Total: $385.62

This was for 4 rotors and pad sets.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2008 | 11:53 PM
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Uh oh...here I go again.

No matter what brand/type of rotor your go for, proper break in in MORE important than anything else. I have 65K on my stock rotors and pull 6K worth of horses up and down these mountains and haven't had any issues.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2008 | 07:13 AM
  #5  
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I just started an experminet on my Ex.

I pull a 9000# TT. Prior to this I pulled a 7500# TT.

I bought my Ex with 14K miles on the clock...from the beginning I had a slight brake pedal pulsation. After a trip thru the Big Horns and Rockies back in 2006 it got to the point I needed to do something as the pulsation had gotten very annoying.

I took it back to the dealer and he turned the stock rotors under warranty as this is apparently a "KNOWN" issue for Ford. I had 24K on the clock at that time. He did not change the pads.

I'm not sure how he bedded in the pads and I didn't do anything special which 'may' have been my issue.

Well fast forward 14K more miles of mostly towing the 9000# TT. This summer I pulled thru the Rockies again and countless passes in Utah, Arizona and New Mexico...brakes once again started pulsing...but this time...on one particular decent in Utah...it got pretty bad to the point the steering wheel shook violently...the brakes had gotten very hot indeed!...

Once I downshifted two gears...and got her whoa'd down...and allowed the brakes to cool...all was back to the slight pulsation...

So where am I going with this long winded post?...

Well in the last 2 years of reading posts about this topic...it is not particularly clear if the rotors actually warp that causes the pulsation or more of the stock brake pads 'shedding' fibers and embedding in/on the hot rotor surface making it rough...

Thus my 'experiment' was to simply go with $40 each Bendix rotors for the front BUT I went with Hawk LTS brake pads and PROPERLY bedded them in personally.

Thus far I only have about 2000 miles on the brakes since I changed them but so far they are still as smooth as when I change them...granted the only pass I've pulled since changing them is Jellico in Tennessee...not quite a Rocky Mountain pass...

When I pulled my rotors for the swap...you could see visible remains of pad material on them for sure...they felt 'rough' to the touch in areas...actually you could see a FULL imprint of the outline of the pads on both backs of the rotors and feel the area where that image was...I suspect after a stop with the brakes hot...that's where the pads 'rested' at stop...

The Cryo rotors with Hawk LTS pads are definately one of the best combos you can get...no doubt...it will cure your issues based on the numerous folks that have gone that way...

For me...cash was tight after a long summer of multiple vacations and 6000 miles of towing...so I figured I'd try something different...$40 for a rotor versus $150 for the cryo'd rotor...I may well eat my words here in a few more K miles...but time and miles will tell...

Plus changing the brakes on these trucks is not very hard...well except for those two bolts per side with 160ft-lbs of torque!...but other than that...they are a piece of cake and gives you an opportunity to grease those slide pins every so often...

Good luck with your decision...I just wanted to let you know my approach...which again hasn't been validated quite yet but based on reading on here has at least a shot at working and if not...I can turn these for $12 each and get maybe 30K miles out of the deal...which for me is about 6 more years worth on this truck at the pace I'm going and at that time...it will likely be time to say so long to the Ex and hello to a diesel pusher coach!

joe.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2008 | 06:42 PM
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I have wondered about pad build-up on the rotors, too. There have been times I could slam the brakes hard, as if to wipe the rotors clean, then expereince no pulsating for several days. Easier driving & stopping tends to allow the build-up to return.

I have also heard of some longterm owners who upgraded to the cryo-treated rotors, only to have the pulsating return several thousand miles later (I'm thinking it was 5K to 10K miles later). I truly appreciate what cryo-treating can offer. The USPS cryo's all their rotors and drums, and they treat their PADS & SHOES, too. They experience 4x the life from their components ... and that's huge for a fleet their size ... but I have heard nothing about their brakes pulsating.

I think I will do like crappiefisherman and go for some low-buck rotors with high-end pads ... paying a lot of attention to the proper break-in requirements (whatever THAT entails).
 
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Old Aug 16, 2008 | 08:04 PM
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I bedded in my brakes that I mentioned in the post above. Great stopping power and absolutely no pulsing in the brakes.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2008 | 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by cficare
I think I will do like crappiefisherman and go for some...
LOL! This is FTE brother, not RV.NET!

Stewart
 
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Old Aug 17, 2008 | 12:12 PM
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Go to brakeplanet.com get the drilled and slotted roters. (all 4) they come with pads and they are very easy to replace. I have had them on my EX for over a year and have had no problems with them. I tow a 30' bumper pull toy box. My total weight veicle & loaded trailer is 28000lbs. I plull this over very steep roads so I use lots of breaking.

good luck
 
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