Lubricating slider pins
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Lubricating slider pins
2000 Ranger 2wd 2.5L
Hello everyone, I'm trying to change the front brakes. When I pulled off the caliper on the left side I noticed one of the slider pins does not slide very smooth and the rubber cover was not attached on one end. It feels like there is some dust or grit that has entered. So I thought no big deal I will just wipe it off and relube the pin, but Chilton's service manual states that 2000 Rangers have a particular type of lube that should not be removed, and the lube from Ford is not available for sale (at the time the manual was written.)
So I attached the rubber cover properly and put the caliper back on for now. Do you think it's needed to relube the slider pin now that dirt has entered, and has anyone had experience with the Rangers of this year requiring special lube?
Another thing, does anyone have any suggestions for removing the caliper bracket bolts, cause they're TIGHT.
Thanks.
Hello everyone, I'm trying to change the front brakes. When I pulled off the caliper on the left side I noticed one of the slider pins does not slide very smooth and the rubber cover was not attached on one end. It feels like there is some dust or grit that has entered. So I thought no big deal I will just wipe it off and relube the pin, but Chilton's service manual states that 2000 Rangers have a particular type of lube that should not be removed, and the lube from Ford is not available for sale (at the time the manual was written.)
So I attached the rubber cover properly and put the caliper back on for now. Do you think it's needed to relube the slider pin now that dirt has entered, and has anyone had experience with the Rangers of this year requiring special lube?
Another thing, does anyone have any suggestions for removing the caliper bracket bolts, cause they're TIGHT.
Thanks.
Elder User
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From: Southeast MI
Likely a metric oddball size that Harbor Freight should carry. A couple of extensions & the key tool: the biggest 1/2 drive breaker-bar in the store. Then brace the pivot in one hand & shove your foot against the wheel well. Lots of body weight helps. Or just get a big compressor & medium twin hammer impact... Then again, by the time you get all the adapters & such to fit to get the impact to reach, you'd be better off with my 1st option.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Connecticut
Ford recommends slicone dielectric grease for the slide pins. Its the same stuff thats used to help seal electrical connections. You can find it in most autoparts stores and probably walmart. Clean off the pins completely before applying the new grease.
The caliper bracket bolts are loctited from the factory. You might try heating up the area around the bolts and then getting a good breaker bar on them.
The caliper bracket bolts are loctited from the factory. You might try heating up the area around the bolts and then getting a good breaker bar on them.
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The reason I was confused was because Chilton says in the chapter about brakes "Note: Don't wipe the libricating gel from these pins or the pin boots. At the time of publication there was no substitute for this gel" I can't imagine it would be any harm taking it off and using something else but I'm no expert.
About the caliper bracket bolts, I'll look for something to use as a breaker bar but I'm too broke to buy one. Another idea I heard was putting a wrench on the bolt and using a car jack to jack up the handle of the wrench. And has anyone used something like PB Blaster to soak the bolts and free up the loctite?
About the caliper bracket bolts, I'll look for something to use as a breaker bar but I'm too broke to buy one. Another idea I heard was putting a wrench on the bolt and using a car jack to jack up the handle of the wrench. And has anyone used something like PB Blaster to soak the bolts and free up the loctite?
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From: Southeast MI
I don't think most chemicals are really going to get in there to break the locktite. A mild propane torch might soften it though. I have used my foot and my hands on a 4-way lug wrench to break loose overtightened lug nuts on occasion years ago. So if it works... Let us know.
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Well thanks for the warning on the loctite, in that case I won't bother buying PB Blaster. I'll definitely update on what happens when I get the chance to work on it this Monday.
I think I might have some silicone dielectric grease laying around so using that will be the plan unless anyone knows about this mysterious grease Chilton claims Ford used from the factory. Another question if you don't mind, as far as cleaning off the slider pins, I'm thinking wipe off what I can and then rub off anything remaining with a rag dampened with paint thinner. And then the new grease should be put on thinly? Sound ok?
I think I might have some silicone dielectric grease laying around so using that will be the plan unless anyone knows about this mysterious grease Chilton claims Ford used from the factory. Another question if you don't mind, as far as cleaning off the slider pins, I'm thinking wipe off what I can and then rub off anything remaining with a rag dampened with paint thinner. And then the new grease should be put on thinly? Sound ok?
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If you are short on funds, so long as you have a sturdy enough socket wrench to take it, you can simply get a 2 to 3 feet piece of galvanized pipe at the hardware store, slip it over the wrench and you have a cheater bar. Take the wrench with you and get the closest ID that fits, like 1 inch. Best if you have a 6 sided socket to fit, they work better than 12 point. I agree no penetrating oil like PB will help with the loctite but it can't hurt and may help with some of the rust. Caliper bolts make you wish for a lift in your garage. It's a pain trying to get leverage lying on your back or side.
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Elder User
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From: Southeast MI
Good points, but that's a point for the 6-point: with the correct socket, you may be able to get away with facing the wheel sitting up & moving around rotor for best leverage. Worked great on my dad's 95 Crown Vic. And for a long cheater bar, you may need to cheat with the jack using blocks under the axle or control arm or the jack itself to make room depending on the truck. I'd use jack stands or at least a couple more jacks at strategic points for backup. Of course, the stock crank bottle jack the Rangers come with gets some decent loft for starters.
Yeah, a 1/2 drive ratchet with well-lubed rust-free guts should cope. I find some of my best tools used. I have a sweet double-ended breaker bar that I can add extensions too for some pretty freaking scary torque on occasion. A 2-foot with a few feet of water pipe in one instance. Use leather gloves too. I've only done that twice in the last decade.
Yeah, a 1/2 drive ratchet with well-lubed rust-free guts should cope. I find some of my best tools used. I have a sweet double-ended breaker bar that I can add extensions too for some pretty freaking scary torque on occasion. A 2-foot with a few feet of water pipe in one instance. Use leather gloves too. I've only done that twice in the last decade.
New User
Joined: May 2008
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From: Northern Illinois
Lubricate the slider pins with "CRC Synthetic Brake & Caliper Grease". It's about eight bucks at autozone.
As far as the breaking torque on the caliper bracket bolts, I'd use a little heat from a propane torch before anything. You don't have to get the bolts glowing red hot, just enough heat to melt the locktite. Try that first before using a cheater bar. The idea about a bottle jack on the end of a wrench sounds like an act of desperation. I know if I tried something like that the wrench would slip off the bolt and hit me. In any case be careful.
As far as the breaking torque on the caliper bracket bolts, I'd use a little heat from a propane torch before anything. You don't have to get the bolts glowing red hot, just enough heat to melt the locktite. Try that first before using a cheater bar. The idea about a bottle jack on the end of a wrench sounds like an act of desperation. I know if I tried something like that the wrench would slip off the bolt and hit me. In any case be careful.
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Good news, the bracket bolts came off very easily. This time I put the truck onto the highest setting my jackstands have and that allowed just enough room to maneuver an old pipe that I put over a socket wrench with a 15mm. Nothing like a little more torque...
Now there's another snag, but I figured I shouldn't start a new topic. I also need to repack the wheel bearings to pass inspection. The outer bearing came out just like it should, so I pulled off the hub to take out the inner bearing. After some work with a chisel the grease seal came off, and here is where the Chilton manual gets unclear. The inner bearing is still inside the hub and I don't see how it can possibly be removed. It's too big to fit out the opening, even with the grease seal off, and prying with a screwdriver doesn't help. This is my first time doing this so any ideas and I would really appreciate it.
And thanks for the heads up on the slider pin grease. Kinda short on cash, but if I don't have anything else laying around I'll spring for that brand.
Now there's another snag, but I figured I shouldn't start a new topic. I also need to repack the wheel bearings to pass inspection. The outer bearing came out just like it should, so I pulled off the hub to take out the inner bearing. After some work with a chisel the grease seal came off, and here is where the Chilton manual gets unclear. The inner bearing is still inside the hub and I don't see how it can possibly be removed. It's too big to fit out the opening, even with the grease seal off, and prying with a screwdriver doesn't help. This is my first time doing this so any ideas and I would really appreciate it.
And thanks for the heads up on the slider pin grease. Kinda short on cash, but if I don't have anything else laying around I'll spring for that brand.
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Disregard question above! Turns out I just had to tap out a metal ring. I didn't want to damage anything at first but the rotors need to be replaced anyway and it looks like a one-piece assembly.
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Bit of a setback.
Repacked wheel bearings, replaced pads, and replaced rotors, that all went fine.
But as I was putting the caliper back on the driver's side wheel I had to compress the piston so it could clear the thicker new pads. I put a C-clamp over a piece of wood and tightened until the pistons were almost flush. While doing this a leak started dripping under the area approx. where the brake fluid resovoir and brake booster is. I put a pan under and it turned out only 1 or 2 oz. leaked in total and it stopped in a few minutes. I put the caliper back on and took it for a test ride, everything worded fine, no loss in stopping power at all.
Doh! Should have unscrewed the brake resovoir cap. I can't really tell where the leak came from. I have a pan under the truck and will check in the morning.
Any ideas on what part of the system might have burst?
Repacked wheel bearings, replaced pads, and replaced rotors, that all went fine.
But as I was putting the caliper back on the driver's side wheel I had to compress the piston so it could clear the thicker new pads. I put a C-clamp over a piece of wood and tightened until the pistons were almost flush. While doing this a leak started dripping under the area approx. where the brake fluid resovoir and brake booster is. I put a pan under and it turned out only 1 or 2 oz. leaked in total and it stopped in a few minutes. I put the caliper back on and took it for a test ride, everything worded fine, no loss in stopping power at all.
Doh! Should have unscrewed the brake resovoir cap. I can't really tell where the leak came from. I have a pan under the truck and will check in the morning.
Any ideas on what part of the system might have burst?
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Lynchburg, VA
May not actually be a rupture or a leak but just overflowing the reservoir with the fluid you displaced when you pushed the piston back in. I normally push the piston in just short of being flush so that I don't worry about tearing or overextending the seal boot. Make sure your reservoir is not overfilled and keep an eye on the level if the leak continues.