Oil Pan Replacement
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Oil Pan Replacement
I've been searching the forums and I can not find a definitive answer on how I can accomplish changing an oil pan on a '95 F150 4x2 with a 302/auto. Some say I can do it by lifting the engine 3", that didn't do it. Others say you have to also remove the oil pump, that didn't work. Finally, some say you have to seperate the engine and trans to do it and that's the point I'm at. However, I would like to hear from somebody that has gone thru this job before I go thru the hassle of seperating the two!
Anybody have any tips?
Thanks.
Anybody have any tips?
Thanks.
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From: The blues
i'm in the middle of the same process on my 91 f-150, my jack was a lil small so i didn't get enough engine lift. but i saw that it'll work with a bit more lift and i'm getting a bigger jack from a friend tonight. My chilton don't say **** about removing the oil pump, just the oil pump pickup tube. pics look like it's at the from of the engine. My guess is just so you don't bend or break it as your removing the oil pan. Oh and remove the fan shroud, headers, and upper intake manifold for clearance. don't think taking the upper intake off is really necessary though.
I'll tell ya any updates on how mine R&R is going when i get back out there, hope you'll do the same if you finish before me.
I'll tell ya any updates on how mine R&R is going when i get back out there, hope you'll do the same if you finish before me.
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James, are you using a floor jack? If you are how are you lifting the engine? I'm using a cherry picker and I end up hitting the firewall with the intake. It's almost like I need more angle on the drivetrain than the cherry picker is giving me. I just need a little more clearance between the crossmember and the bellhousing....
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 11,289
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From: Lakewood, Ohio
block of wood on harmonic balancer, wood between motor mounts and crossmember for safety, unbolt the tran. mount and with a piece of wood under pan jack up the trans as far as you can.
you may have just enough room then, even with intake on, but the intake will probably have to come off.
the pan is a mother to get out, that is for sure.
you may have just enough room then, even with intake on, but the intake will probably have to come off.
the pan is a mother to get out, that is for sure.
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Quicklook, thanks again. I'll try it.
It certainly is a mother to get out! I almost feel it would have been easier to pull the whole drivetrain rather than try to work around everything.
It certainly is a mother to get out! I almost feel it would have been easier to pull the whole drivetrain rather than try to work around everything.
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From: The blues
Yea thanks for the input as well, that's about the same thing my chilton says and shows. I forgot to mention to unbolt the tranny mount on the cross member. Just got the new jack from a friend, a very nice floor jack.
Oh and bob, maybe with your set-up it wouldn't be that bad to take off the drive train, but changing the clutch in mine was about the biggest pain in the *** that i have ever had to do to a truck. course that was in my dirt driveway with a floor jack.
hey quick, i got a mr. gasket gasket, but i was wondering if an gasket adhesive was all that necessary to use with it. I'm sure it is, and if so a local parts store outta be able to hook me up right.
Oh and bob, maybe with your set-up it wouldn't be that bad to take off the drive train, but changing the clutch in mine was about the biggest pain in the *** that i have ever had to do to a truck. course that was in my dirt driveway with a floor jack.
hey quick, i got a mr. gasket gasket, but i was wondering if an gasket adhesive was all that necessary to use with it. I'm sure it is, and if so a local parts store outta be able to hook me up right.
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From: The blues
the mr. gasket is one piece rubber with steel core as well, though them clips would've been nice. And also the mr. gasket shipped will screws that have same heads and threads but are all about 2/3 as long as the originals, good thing the originals are still in good shape.
thanks for the tip on where to put the adhesive, or was that only if you had the clips to hold the rest in place.
thanks for the tip on where to put the adhesive, or was that only if you had the clips to hold the rest in place.
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From: The blues
Well i just got my SOB off and i had to remove both the intake and oil pump to get the proper clearance. It was still a tight squeeze as well. It may have been that my wooden blocks weren't quite big enough to hold the engine a lil higher. Even though i used like 3"-3 1/2" blocks.
Now i'm off to put the new one on.
Now i'm off to put the new one on.
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From: The blues
New one is on, I very highly suggest you get someone to help you align the new oil pan and gasket up to the block and put a few screws in. I did it by myself and it was a huge pain in the a**.
Btw, after jacking my motor up i noticed that the rubber in my engine mounts broke and are now in 2 pieces, This surely is not normal right? And what could have caused that.
Btw, after jacking my motor up i noticed that the rubber in my engine mounts broke and are now in 2 pieces, This surely is not normal right? And what could have caused that.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 11,289
Likes: 6
From: Lakewood, Ohio
age and heat cause the mounts to fail.
you did unbolt the motor mounts i hope.
the pieces that come with the felpro gasket that hold it together are worth the price.
good job.
glad you got her done.
miller time!!!
you did unbolt the motor mounts i hope.
the pieces that come with the felpro gasket that hold it together are worth the price.
good job.
glad you got her done.
miller time!!!