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Yes. You will have to remove the upper intake (so it will clear the firewall) and unbolt it from the mounts. Then you have to jack it up by the crank pulley far enough to slide the pan out from underneath. Replace the pump and pickup screen while you have it apart.
put truck on ramps, unbolt fan shroud, lay on fan, unbolt battery, unbolt both motor mounts, with block of wood jack up the motor as far as you can, put wood blocks between mounts and frame but not in the way, unbolt trans mount at trans, remove oil, pan screen, pump, lay these in pan, then try to remove pan, if you can't use floor jack to jack up trans. as far as you can.
don't get high volume pump, do replace pump, pick up screen and use one piece felpro gasket.
Did mine on a '95 I6 just unbolted the motor mounts and lifted the engine a bit with a crane and was able to slide pan out. Unfortunately, it's time for me to do it again 5 years later. Do use the wood blocks too, no point losing fingers.
Ok, I was able to complete the pan swap last night, but have discovered a slight problem. When I finished the job and was cleaning up, under the cardboard I was laying on I found the steel rails for the oil pan bolts. They sit on the outside of the pan for reinforcement - presumably to make the gasket seal better. Has anyone successfully installed an oil pan without these? Should I expect it to leak? Is it worth putting them back on???
Since the job was complete before i noticed the reinforcing rails were not on, I decided to try my luck and see if it would leak. Sure enough, it does. Looks like I will be putting them on for sure now. Thanks for the input.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.